Styrene based anchor resin still available?

[Stueeee]

Doing a job today of setting in some M10 studs. I had an unopened tube of resin on the shelf. After I'd finished setting in the studs and used some resin to fill some non structural cracks I discovered that the central activator bit of the tube had gone totally solid up by the nozzle and activator started coming out the back of the tube just as I finished. So I have pumped in a load of resin that will never set. It is going to be an absolute sod to get every last bit of it out, but I reasoned that pumping in the same resin with the activator in it should set any tiny amounts that might remain in the nooks and crannies. Then I discovered that Screwfix and Toolstation only stock 'Styrene free' resin now. is the Styrene based resin stuff still available?

 

[premmington]

I am not a chemist...

But my limited understanding is - "styrene" resin is petroleum based and has an odour/smell...

What the chemical struture of "styrene free" stuff is - I don't know - also I don't know if the hardener would make it go off... (doubt it!)

 

[Erie Fred]

Is this piece something you could warm up ?
Might get it to cure with some heat, not sure though.

 

[Stueeee]

I am not a chemist...

But my limited understanding is - "styrene" resin is petroleum based and has an odour/smell...

What the chemical struture of "styrene free" stuff is - I don't know - also I don't know if the hardener would make it go off... (doubt it!)

That is the issue for me, I suspect the chemical make up of the 'low odour' 'Styrene free' stuff is totally different. Styrene is the stuff that's in Fibreglass resin and car filler. The Styrene based anchor resin is the stuff I've always used for setting in studs, it's smelly till it's set.

 

[Stueeee]

Is this piece something you could warm up ?
Might get it to cure with some heat, not sure though.

The studs go in 4", the non structural cracks probably 2" deep so heating it would be a problem I think. Actually the studs holes are likely to be the easiest to fix if I'm stuck with the 'low odour' stuff, because I can drill the holes out to a slightly larger size after cleaning out as much resin as I can. The cracks are irregular and will be difficult/impossible to get all the resin out.

 

[Erie Fred]

The studs go in 4", the non structural cracks probably 2" deep so heating it would be a problem I think. Actually the studs holes are likely to be the easiest to fix if I'm stuck with the 'low odour' stuff, because I can drill the holes out to a slightly larger size after cleaning out as much resin as I can. The cracks are irregular and will be difficult/impossible to get all the resin out.

I think the polyester resin can be dissolved with plain old gasoline.
Maybe a strong paint thinner like xylene or MEK.

 

[zzr1200]

https://cableties-direct.co.uk/410ml-grey-polyester-chemical-anchor-resin.html ........................ .............................. hth

 

[GaryS65]

I think they stopped using styrene in the resin because it's not actually particularly good for you.

 

[dobbslc]

What about getting some new resin and push the nozzle into the bottom of the hole and pumping out the old stuff as it goes in?
Maybe use a hot air gun on the wall to soften it up a bit first.

 

[GaryS65]

Just send the drill back down the hole

 

[Newlands]

Might be worth trying some catalyst for polyester resin, ie the stuff used for laying up glass fibre. Test it out on whatever you have left in the tube first. In theory the mix quantity for polyesters isn’t critical (not like epoxy anyway) so you might be able to just squirt a bit in the holes and it will cure ok.

 

[Agroshield]

I was under the impression that the hardener was a catalyst.

AIUI, a catalyst speeds up a reaction, so the stuff wil set eventually, albeit slowly.

Always check the use-by date on tubes.

TS & SF now stock smaller tubes, so (at a higher cost per litre) but at least you do not feel so bad throwing it away.

 

[Smallfry]

Hammer steel or wooden dowel down the hole to force the old stuff out and/or run the drill back down. Its messy but will do it.

I have seen capsules that are placed in the hole, then hammering in the fixing mixes it.

This is a reason NOT to keep half empty tubes of resin

 

[Newlands]

AIUI, a catalyst speeds up a reaction, so the stuff wil set eventually, albeit slowly.

No, it needs some catalyst to initiate the reaction. Ideally the right proportion to get the strength promised by the manufacturer, but even a small amount will result in some sort of a cure.
I guess in this case if it's structurally important it would be best to try and cure the existing resin so it can be drilled out properly, then start agin with some fresh resin tubes and a clean hole.

 

[Stueeee]

https://cableties-direct.co.uk/410ml-grey-polyester-chemical-anchor-resin.html ........................ .............................. hth

Thanks for that, The Timco PE stuff is Styrene based according to the data sheet. Ordered a tube just now.

And thanks to all for your replies

 

[Keith 66]

The resin in the old stuff is polyester resin based, Styrene is the solvent carrier in the resin. Over time as it gets old the styrene evaporates away & the resin will go hard. In old way out date tins you will often see solidified styrene crystals looking like puffed cotton wool.
At this stage the resin is fubared & nothing will make it cure properly. Styrene free resin can be modified polyester, Vinylester or Epoxy based.
The first two will use a peroxide based catalyst, but not necessarily the same as used for older styrene containing resins.
Epoxies do not use peroxide based catalyst & in fact their Amine based hardeners can react violently with peroxide
It is important not to mix catalysts if you are unsure.
Best way here is to just drill the hole out & redo with new stuff.

 

[Munkul]

Soudafix P300-ST has styrene and still widely available. I've used loads of it.