- Thread starter Matchless
- Start date
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Essex UK
Now inside for the winter, will emerge reconditioned in the spring, maybe, new oil seals and gaiters, rebuilt wheel cylinders, reconditioned handbrake linkages! not in main shed / workshop, in far end of shed, next to the carport housing the chassis. the 1911 chassis is stood up on the end of the far racking, red oxide primer.
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Essex UK
Need some advice, I suspect heat may be the answer! I removed the dogbones that keep the rear axles upright so I could attempt tp replace the gaiters on the ball joints, problem is that the pin with the ball on the end needs to be removed from the cross shaft and diffs, I think the shaft is parallel sided with a split tapered collar at the nut end, smashing the end of the shaft with a decent club hammer only spreads the end of the shaft, fortunately smaller than the thread! I think the split collar (item 12) needs to come loose first! also any thoughts on a gaiter (item 16), about 70mm inside dia. rather like a very large TRE gaiter.
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Essex UK
Well I tried everything I could think of including welding a puller to the split collet thingy but it would not budge, broke the welds and then the puller, I had bought a box of 20 or so CV boots from Ebay, £20.00 delivered so I chopped one up and did manage to get it over the ball and flange, worked a treat, two done two to do! I think the bit I cut off may do a TRE boot!
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Essex UK
My first every go at any sort of TIG welding today, trying to weld a 3mm patch to a 30kg 10mm thick aluminium sump for the lorry, I had to grind down the drain hole from the rear main bearing as there is very little clearance to the rear of the alloy sump that came with the higher power Sheerline engine, the original tin sump could fit but the oil pump is in a different place so that would need modifying and I need to learn to tig. The weld is not quite finished as I broke the previously repaired gas cap on the torch (PA401) have re-glued it and will have another go, also have a larger piece to weld it to clear the engine mount. I will test it with brake cleaner when I have finished, don't want a leak from my 80 year old Austin engine!
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Essex UK
I thought I would have a quick look at the ends and mains before refitting the expertly welded sump back on, the cold oil pressure was great but I could tell that a bit of a muppet had been working on this engine in the past, no new gaskets (hopefully apart from the head gasket! missing rubber timing chain tensioner ring, valve clearances all over the place, two adjuster nuts loose, etc. well the bearings were std. crank looks great, bearings had some scoring and one of the big end shells looked a bit contaminated, oh and the round felt seals up each side of the rear main bearing cap were 3 core flex! I had a struggle to find std ends and mains, some undersizes were available but not std, then I found some in Kilsyth Victoria Australia, not a bad price, something like £120 for the two sets, but shipping, duty, vat, handling charges would have been a pain, plus a month to get here so I had them shipped to Sydney where a mate of mine stays with his daughter for a couple of months three times a year, he left for the UK a day or so later and I had them delivered to my door a couple of days ago! the big ends are listed as Commer / Humber but they are perfect just an extra oil hole, 3 instead of two, no problem! 
jwclassicparts@yahoo.com.au
jwclassicparts@yahoo.com.aufinyuk2005
Member
- Messages
- 852
is that the pusher mans cousin?
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Essex UK
If there is something to grip, the collars would not take a mig weld, no penetration, maybe cast iron??Aye, me.
There isn't much I can't pull apart with my 30 ton puller.
oldbikedavey
Member
- Messages
- 1,926
- Location
- London, England
As the actress no doubt said to the bishop.....
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Essex UK
Nothing to grab onto from what I could see, flush outside, almost flush inside plus a chamfer, Drilling it through might have worked but Halfords are out of stock and I would have needed to drill out four and remake..................... I think they could have been very hard rather than cast............. anuhow I worked arounf them.
Never had that done,is it costly?
- Messages
- 23,919
- Location
- Birmingham
Looks like the invoice at the top of the pic?
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Essex UK
Not wrong! and back in one week!
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Essex UK
Invoice in the picture, I thought good value, impossible to find NoS or even used!
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
- Messages
- 9,278
- Location
- South West
The Garage, Church Rd, Brean, Burnham-on-Sea, Somerset England, TA8 2SF
+44 07751 989824
01278 751293
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Essex UK
Anyone got a spare 3"AF+- socket for rear hub nuts? Removed the front backplates today, ready to replace the king pins, and fit new gaiters to the TRE's plus I will build up the brakes before refitting the backplates.
