- Thread starter Bki26
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that should give you a better idea ,,, its just a starting point , but keeps things really easy to make
Haha that's a pretty decent quick sketch, you're definitely a man of many talents!
I've just realised if I reduced the box section to say 40mm then the 10mm plate would have fit inside the pusher plate u channel that wraps around the beam and been an almost perfect fit but no point changing that now I've got some coming for £9 so I'll do what you're suggesting with the side plates and just use an extra short section of the u channel as got plenty left and that'll help reinforce the rocking around the rod pin if pushing a log with the tip of the plate accidentally instead of it being up against the beam.
Makes sense beefing it up since got a +10t cylinder so might as well make the most of it!
I've just realised if I reduced the box section to say 40mm then the 10mm plate would have fit inside the pusher plate u channel that wraps around the beam and been an almost perfect fit but no point changing that now I've got some coming for £9 so I'll do what you're suggesting with the side plates and just use an extra short section of the u channel as got plenty left and that'll help reinforce the rocking around the rod pin if pushing a log with the tip of the plate accidentally instead of it being up against the beam.
Makes sense beefing it up since got a +10t cylinder so might as well make the most of it!
well Ill look forwards to the pics , its nice to see how other folk tackle things ,,,
Screwdriver
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Well I'm glad we got that sorted. 
Finally got back to the build, all the wet weather and dark days got me pretty much dead with motivation to do anything but thankfully it was sunny today so forced myself.
Spent most of the day fighting the wind but now have some probably overkill and ugly but strong welds so the cross being will definitely not sheer off when it's being used as a 2m boom lift moving ~250kg
Spent most of the day fighting the wind but now have some probably overkill and ugly but strong welds so the cross being will definitely not sheer off when it's being used as a 2m boom lift moving ~250kg
No because the rods would glow lol. Think they're 2.5mm and running them at ~100a.
The weld looks bad but it's mostly the lighting and I decided to zigzag instead of continuous straight welds after I'd done a few straight for the root otherwise it would have required 5x the rods I used.
It's not pretty and I was mostly blind as helmet is on its last legs (new parweld xr942h ordered) but there's no way it's gonna pop anytime soon!
Funnily enough I was in the f**k it let's see what happens mood today and set it to 130a... Rod was glowing for +15s after but weld was perfect 
Tempted to try 2 rods at the same time being only 2.5mm see if that helps, gonna order some 3.2mm when I get low on the current lot.
Was rather handy using the remaining C channel as a narrow welding table I managed to get everything almost perfectly square.
I have a strange urge to do some jousting before I continue welding
Tempted to try 2 rods at the same time being only 2.5mm see if that helps, gonna order some 3.2mm when I get low on the current lot.
Was rather handy using the remaining C channel as a narrow welding table I managed to get everything almost perfectly square.
I have a strange urge to do some jousting before I continue welding
start doing a wee bit of prep on your welds and think about leaving a gap ,,, farmers push things up tight for welding , fabricators leave a gap for penetration ,,,, dont worry too much about the whip and pause thing , worry about penetration . try the cut thing , then try a joint with a gap and look at it too ,,, nothing wrong with running a grinder over a joint to clean it before adding another pass either ,, most pipe welds are done that way and thats by folk who weld for a living ,,,
Yea I've been putting a decent bevel on all the edges when prepping and it's not all tight and flush most have at least 1mm gap since not perfectly cut with a chop saw. I've been grinding down the first couple passes and blending them into the following passes since it doesn't need to be pretty and would say it's getting decent penetration based on the look of the back side so definitely won't fail.
Have ordered some 3.2mm 6013 as these 2.5mm are only really good for tacking/light work.
Erie Fred
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Based on the pictures, I do not agree.
I would be grinding the welds back out, and trying again.
that sums it up ,,,, but I was still edging on polite ,,,
and before the health and safety brigade cheep in ,,,, I do have a cswip ticket .
I mean you're looking at pictures taken with an old phone with bad lighting plus they're mid weld as I did multiple more beads after, they might not look good in your opinion but they're not meant to be Instagram worthy or require approval from across the Atlantic
I appreciate the feedback either way, most of them I have ground out and redone the pictures don't show the full day's story.
addjunkie
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These might have been better ordered before the job started. As for your 130 amps are they real amps or oriental ones!
once you start hanging things from a quick hitch four or five feet of leverage and some rams and blades etc the weight soon adds up and the load on the weld gets quite serious quite quickly , maybe a couple of webs in a few places or the likes ,,,I mean you're looking at pictures taken with an old phone with bad lighting plus they're mid weld as I did multiple more beads after, they might not look good in your opinion but they're not meant to be Instagram worthy or require approval from across the Atlantic
I appreciate the feedback either way, most of them I have ground out and redone the pictures don't show the full day's story.
