I used to race n trail a V8 Series One 80 " Land Rover with the Southern Rover Owners Club years ago. I've also rebuilt a spare 109" chassis then replaced it under a Series2/3 Station Wagon another of my V8 conversion, so I understand my Meccano Kit statement fully.....
.
a long way from just unscrewing a 20 year old farm vehicle ... but if you want to take the wings off for me ,,, I will make the tea and supply the biscuits.I used to race n trail a V8 Series One 80 " Land Rover with the Southern Rover Owners Club years ago. I've also rebuilt a spare 109" chassis then replaced it under a Series2/3 Station Wagon another of my V8 conversion, so I understand my Meccano Kit statement fully.....
If there wasn't such a large ditch between us, I'd consider coming over and doing it.
well with luck this one wont be repaired ,,, it may end up as a chassis job ,, like most things though , the chassis prices are on the up from what they were ,,,
MIG for preference (but could stick or gas weld if warranted), under 5mm thickness Corten is considered fully compatible with the MS MIG wire I normally use.
Just the bottom and outer of the dumb iron, the inner and top are sound, as is the cross member and other side.
if your lucky enough not to have the inside and / or the cross member to repair you will be grand , theres no load to speak of on that part of the chassis normally , its not like a rear end used for towing etc . you will get away without the stripping too
That's heartening!
how far back does the repair need to go , usually its only six inches ish , not as far as the x member ,,, post a pic or two ,,, if you can ,,, if you dont have the x member to do , no rad pack etc your not so bad ,,, but it will need a really good clean up before you can be sure ,
Corrosion that I am suspicious about extends back to almost level with the axle on the outside bottom corner only.
I will post it in the main thread for that vehicle when I start to dig into it tomorrow.
It's a Stage 1 V8, so the radiator sits on two towers that are welded to the top of the dumb-iron directly above the front suspension mount.
Yeah, once I have the weight off the suspension mount I want to get some templates and measurements, then begin to cut away everything obviously failed, a d wire wheel anything remotely rusty looking until I am at good metal.
My mate is now bringing me a 1x2m sheet of 2mm steel and his little bandsaw that he uses for profiling stuff (sounds daft, but he's not far off the accuracy of CNC laser/waterjet, as long as the template you give him is accurate).
If I remember correctly from reading an early offical Land Rover workshop manual chassis tolerances are +/- 1/16 of an inch, so a cnc machinist may have kittens.....
From doing the 6x6 I'd say needle gun it over wire wheel. I found the needle gun far quicker at getting off the rust and far better at finding holes than the wire wheels.
Stage 1 is leaf sprung (RRC drive train in a series 3) so the front dumb irons take a good chunk of the weight supported by the front springs.
Pretty much 98 % of all welding I've done on Land Rovers ( which is quite a lot) has been done with Oxy Acetylene, I've found it the most flexible method that you can finely control and 'finesse' it when needed. Obviously if you're most comfortable with MIG whatever works best for you.
All the chassis I've modified have been stripped bare then shot blasted, then welded up and/or had repair sections grafted in depending on condition.
dumb irons are infront of springs , otherwise its a chassis ,,, basically they hold the bumper
Disagree.... The dumb-iron is forward of the front cross member on a series chassis ....
rimmerbros.com
