- Thread starter Kram
- Start date
Elliot 10m, the next job for it is machining the dovetails on a very worn Myford ML1, maybe in another 8 years.
Morning or afternoon?
BrokenBiker
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practice run for the threads on the levelling feet im planning on making from en16 on monday...first time threading on this lathe other than just tarting about making sure all the levers worked. came out quite nicely, nice fit in the nut so confident the thread dial/lead screw are in good order. 5/8" 11tpi UNC as its the largest that will fit the holes in the lathe base and only chose imperial as i can use the thread dial rather than having to wind the lathe back by hand every pass. also decided i hate machining nylon so wont be buying any more, will be delrin next time i order material
Rannsachair
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Decided to lean up the worst of the rust on the Jaguar brakes, that's it finally ready for its MOT.
Rannsachair
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Yes, vacuumed as soon as I finished, I hate machining cast iron.
BrokenBiker
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1 of 4 leveling feet for the lathe from en16 after many suggestions on here for it being a good material for hard wearing parts and id rather these didnt fail...few snags with it as my live centre is too big to get the tool in at the start of the thread, so ended up using a dead centre which i dont like doing if i can help it. tried 1 pass without a centre and immediately realised it wasnt going to happen. Then the tip chipped at the start of the very last pass...but its a decent fit albeit a tad crunchy, and came out as i wanted...3 more to do, this one took about 40 mins, but that was only becuase i had the 4 jaw fitted and couldnt be bothered to swap for the 3 jaw and then faffing with the live centre and tool angles, but i ended up using a collet for the final facing of the bottom after parting off anyway so the 3 jaw will go back on for the next ones and will face all 3 off as a last process at the end in the collet. 5/8-11 UNC with a 30mm foot purely becasue its easier to cut on this lathe than M16 and it started off as 30mm round bar anyway. oh, and need to make 4 washers as well
getting used to how this lathe likes to cut now, 1mm depth of cut isnt an issue and even got the chips to break after palying with the feeds for a bit.
getting used to how this lathe likes to cut now, 1mm depth of cut isnt an issue and even got the chips to break after palying with the feeds for a bit.
BrokenBiker
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Quick and simple hose adapter for the existing coolant pipe on the lathe...1/4 bsp, screw cut because I don't carry any imperial dies, to take a 12mm bore hose...and knurling just because, well why not...I can't cut a hex just yet but if I can't get it in tight enough by hand (or with vice grips) I will file 2 flats on it for a spanner
Hood
I am obsessed.
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The nut on my side stand was chewed up, the hex is well under size on it and you can't get in with a ring spanner or socket.
So today I made a good fitting one from some 6082 aluminium, it is m10 x 1.25 and the hex is 14mm.
Threw it into the laser and etched it, the whole logo is 5mm long and 3mm high.
So today I made a good fitting one from some 6082 aluminium, it is m10 x 1.25 and the hex is 14mm.
Threw it into the laser and etched it, the whole logo is 5mm long and 3mm high.
BrokenBiker
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Quick little get out the *&#! Job for my father...he managed to break one of these and they are only supplied with 1 per unit...priced them up and the minimum pack of 20 cost nearly £500 plus the obvious wait for dispatch...
Off cut of 316 and about half hour including set up for the taper and I've just been told it fits perfectly. M6 thread, 9.5mm total diameter and a ballache of a taper to clock in as its only 8mm long and the part I was given to take measurements off was bent and mangled where it sheared off.
Off cut of 316 and about half hour including set up for the taper and I've just been told it fits perfectly. M6 thread, 9.5mm total diameter and a ballache of a taper to clock in as its only 8mm long and the part I was given to take measurements off was bent and mangled where it sheared off.
Brad93
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All that for an earth strap?
BrokenBiker
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pretty much
BrokenBiker
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Neat job!
Most folks would just use a spouting bolt an nut.
not allowed to deviate from the drawing in any way...took long enough to convince the engineer that filling a 2mm gap with a 3mm packing shim wasnt going to work, id hate to see how long it would take to convince him to spend 500 quid on a pack of spare studs or even change the purchase order to include 1 spare per unit...used to work for them in a different department and they have some very strange approaches to engineering, nothing is simple and nowhere near cost effective, but they have some very good sales reps...i left when i became an apprentice in another factory, i was in college with their now head engineer of the department in question and he manages to be on annual leave for every important meeting, much like in college when there was always something better to do than actually learn how parts were made. the same engineer is responsible for changing the supplier of the stainless nuts that are used, and since that change there have apparently been a large number of issues with damaged threads on parts right across the department.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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I have been doing a few of the steering joints recently as all are getting on for 4 or 5 years old and are rattling.
The original ends I designed had a circular pocked that a ball end fitted into which allowed full rotation in the horizontal plane and about 40 degrees in the vertical.
Pic of the original.
As said they wear through time and although still very secure the slackness and noise is a nuisance.
So my next idea was to have acetal inserts which has two benefits, firstly they can be replaced when worn but also they hold the ball end fully rather than just in a few places.
When I get the old ones I machine a square pocket in them.
I can then insert the lower bush.
Then once at the boat I can fit the ball end steering rod in and fit the second bush (test ball end in this image)
Finally the lid is put back on and all is good to go.
The first ones I did with the acetal bushes were over a year ago and they are still fine so looks like the bushes are lasting well.
The original ends I designed had a circular pocked that a ball end fitted into which allowed full rotation in the horizontal plane and about 40 degrees in the vertical.
Pic of the original.
As said they wear through time and although still very secure the slackness and noise is a nuisance.
So my next idea was to have acetal inserts which has two benefits, firstly they can be replaced when worn but also they hold the ball end fully rather than just in a few places.
When I get the old ones I machine a square pocket in them.
I can then insert the lower bush.
Then once at the boat I can fit the ball end steering rod in and fit the second bush (test ball end in this image)
Finally the lid is put back on and all is good to go.
The first ones I did with the acetal bushes were over a year ago and they are still fine so looks like the bushes are lasting well.
That little stud looks very much like a simple stainless steel sleeve anchor bolt used to fix into concrete or brick .
