brightspark
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a nice thick plywood lining inside helps cure a new opening in the side . it stinks smokes like hell and takes ages to cut through with a stillie metal cutting blade
- Thread starter 6ply
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That would be a lot of ply to line a 20' container.
Maybe a sign saying "WARNING: this container is lined with asbestos sheeting"?
But seriously, I think (hope!) that someone would notice if the container was being cut apart at night.
Also, there won't be anything valuable stored inside.
But I will install an alarm anyway.
Maybe a sign saying "WARNING: this container is lined with asbestos sheeting"?
But seriously, I think (hope!) that someone would notice if the container was being cut apart at night.
Also, there won't be anything valuable stored inside.
But I will install an alarm anyway.
There, was a spate a few years back. If the two doors lock on a central padlock, you can open the handles to gain a bit of space and then wedge a jack in the top ot the gap. No power tools and reasonably quiet.
Immobilising one or both handles will greatly increase the security. We bolted some heavy box section over the both handles on the left door to make them inoperable but still leave the right hand door for access.
Immobilising one or both handles will greatly increase the security. We bolted some heavy box section over the both handles on the left door to make them inoperable but still leave the right hand door for access.
Blue Chips
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We had two 20-foot shipping containers that we used for storage for more than 15 years. We sold one, and the other one went with the property we sold in '23.
Both of our containers were made of COR-TEN steel. Look for any tags or data plates on the container that indicate the type of steel used. COR-TEN steel is designed to develop a dense rusty-looking patina wherever bare metal is exposed, and that patina seals off and protects the underlying steel. When we set up our containers, they were initially placed on wooden blocks, but we had an overzealous family of groundhogs (seriously) that undermined the whole area under the containers, and the blocks sunk into the ground to the point where the containers were essentially resting directly on the ground for at least ten years, and when we sold the container and had it hauled away, I looked at the ground contact areas, and as far as I could tell, any rust appeared to go no deeper than the patina. COR-TEN is good stuff.
That said, even if your container is COR-TEN steel, it isn't a bad idea to place it on some type of footing material that won't rot away or hold moisture.
As to security, you can obtain at least mid-level protection by welding on a thick steel padlock cover that will prevent potential thugs from using a bolt cutter on the padlock. It will also keep your padlock dry and free from ice and corrosion.
Both of our containers were made of COR-TEN steel. Look for any tags or data plates on the container that indicate the type of steel used. COR-TEN steel is designed to develop a dense rusty-looking patina wherever bare metal is exposed, and that patina seals off and protects the underlying steel. When we set up our containers, they were initially placed on wooden blocks, but we had an overzealous family of groundhogs (seriously) that undermined the whole area under the containers, and the blocks sunk into the ground to the point where the containers were essentially resting directly on the ground for at least ten years, and when we sold the container and had it hauled away, I looked at the ground contact areas, and as far as I could tell, any rust appeared to go no deeper than the patina. COR-TEN is good stuff.
That said, even if your container is COR-TEN steel, it isn't a bad idea to place it on some type of footing material that won't rot away or hold moisture.
As to security, you can obtain at least mid-level protection by welding on a thick steel padlock cover that will prevent potential thugs from using a bolt cutter on the padlock. It will also keep your padlock dry and free from ice and corrosion.
The container will be supplied with a lock cover welded on (and painted).
I had assumed all containers were made from cor-ten steel.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Smouser
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Woohoo! More hoarding space!!!
I have an uninsulated one and it is BAD if you open it when the weather has changed from really cold to humid. The last time I could literally see 'rain' forming infront of my eyes.
I now don't open it when there is extreme weather changes.
If I were you, I would look to insulate it before you fill it with treasures.
I will look into getting it insulated but it's going to have to be used beforehand as I need to start some building work and this container will be giving me some extra space.
Do you have any lights in yours? There's nothing I can see in the photos.
I may have to rig up some temporary lights for now.
Smouser
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No, mine is pure storage.
It is a stock standard container with no niceties (apart from a ramp so I can push my pallet stacker in/out).
It is a few miles from my house so I don't go there often.
If I had space on my property to keep one or two, I would have made it nicer with lights and insulation etc.
That reminds me... add ramp to the list of jobs.
My 18 kg calor gas bottle lives outside and that's where it is staying. Cheers!
Blue Chips
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My understanding is that most containers made from the '90s onward are COR-TEN steel, and some may be galvanized. When was your container made?
It doesn't surprise me that it already has a lock cover.
As others have mentioned, condensation was an issue. I tried to avoid opening the containers on a warm, humid day, especially if the previous night was cold. You could almost watch the condensation form on everything. When we had a warm dry day it was a good idea to open the container and let things warm up and dry off, and allow the container to fill with low-humidity air. Insulation should help a great deal, but it's not a cure-all, since during a prolonged cold period, the contents of an insulated container will still eventually get cold, and if you open the doors on a warmer, more humid day, there will still be condensation.
arther dailey
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any chance you can find out what it was sprayed with ? please . thanks
Blue Chips
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Preventing condensation on the walls and ceiling is at least half the battle, and like @arther dailey, I'd also like to know what was used.
Objects stored in the container would still be subject to condensation if they are cold and the incoming air is warmer and humid.
Grafotherm is a "paint" finish that appears to absorb the moisture to stop dripping. Clearly, it would need to be dried out to remove this moisture at some other time.
gaz1
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ive seen a video where the spray on foam has seperated from the steeland due to it being solid there is then a clear gap of air inbetween
so will still rust due to droplets
with any container its keeping them cool that really helps as it stops the paint from cracking therefore more chance of it not rusting
but most dont want to spend the money they think having a container is enough until its starts to rust and rot and then comes the expensive side of it to repair them
so will still rust due to droplets
with any container its keeping them cool that really helps as it stops the paint from cracking therefore more chance of it not rusting
but most dont want to spend the money they think having a container is enough until its starts to rust and rot and then comes the expensive side of it to repair them
