- Thread starter HSGB
- Start date
Righrt, I had given up and reassembled the motor as was relieved that it ran okay but, the bearing was rumbling away and was on my mind. So, I decided to have another go at splittig it again: after getting the flu first. This time, as mentioned on here, I started at the other end. It took me nearly two days to remove the end bell from the other end but, it eventually came off. I am now seeing this:
I tried removing the rotor but those two wires ( red and blue ) are holding it in, are those the two wires you were on about Brad, this centrifugal clutch? I take it I have to now go into the junction box, on the side of the case, and disconnect them and pull them through in order to release the armature? I do not see how I could ever get them back in the box though as there is no room between the inner of the case and the stator windings.. Maybe they can be unsoldered at the clutch end I couldn't believe that there was a spider living in there and a house he had built, on the actual windings, I saw him pack up and leave when I pulled the end off.
Guineafowl
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Well done on getting it off. It’s a switch, not a clutch, and I’d normally unsolder the wires there, not the other end. Or, if desperate, chop them, then solder and heat shrink afterwards.
I have now removed both bearings. But, this little rivet snapped off from in that switch, somewhere. This minute thing could be what makes it scrap, my premonitions come true. I don't know where it came from on the switch, I suppose I will have to now takle the switch apart to try and find out,. Deeper and deeper I go.
Seadog
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To the left of the spring looks like a butchered rivet end, and it is also opposite another rivet at tge top of the picture.
500e
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NO he moved to Spain in 2019Could that bit be the illusive Higs Boson?
Up close, I would say that it is original and It acts as the stop for the contact on the switch.
Anyway, I studied the switch meticulously, even with a magnifying glass and could find no clue as to where that part of a rivet came from or, it's other half. So, I reassembled the motor and tried starting it. The motor started then spun down to a stop, I tried again and it started but then spun back down. I am no expert on these but from what Iv'e already learned is that it sounds like the switch isn't working and tranferring power over to the run winding? Does that sound about right?
I have ow taken the switch end -bell off and checked the switch again. Whilst idle the contacts are closed, obviously I cannot see what they are doing whilst running but, the switch moves freely and when I manually move the sprung weights, it releases the contacts.
I shall try and take some more pictures, so you can see for yourselves, that there seems to be no damage anywhere, on the switch.
I was under the impression that during start the switch was closed which let current into the start windings then, as speed increased, the weights opened which disengaged the switch and allowed current to the run windings. Well, it seems it was a waste of time reding about that the other day!
No, it just starts up then stops and coasts to a halt. If I then turn it back on it does the same, it isn't going onto the run phase and what I ws reading the other day said that that was the purpose of the switch. What is the purpose of the switch then?
It appears that both caps are in parallel so the effective value will be the sum of the two capacitance values.
If that's the case it's a capacitor start type rather than capacitor start and run.
If I understand what's happening you switch on, the motor runs a bit, then stops.
1) does it reach full speed or thereabouts?
2) how long does it run for?
3) after it slows down and stops is it humming or buzzing?
4) do you have to wait for a while before it will repeat this cycle?
5) was there any sign of a thermal switch or cutout?
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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But it should cycle once the centrifugal switch closes.
