Cutting Box section. the best way to do it?

[chunkytfg]

Morning all,

Just wondering your opinions on the best way to cut box section steel and if it is worth me spending out on new tools to help or stick with what I've got?

I'm looking at the Makita saw below and wondering if it is actually any good? I've got a woodworking background so already have the maikta platform so thinking it might work well but would be good to have real world reviews.

https://www.ukplanettools.co.uk/makita-18v-136mm-metal-cutting-saw-body-dcs552z.html

Alternatively there is this, double the price of the circular saw though and a bit more limited interns of what it can do, i.e no sheet metal cutting etc. Again though real world reviews would be good

https://www.ukplanettools.co.uk/makita-dpb182z-18v-lxt-portable-band-saw-dpb182z.html

Finally we have just plain old cutting discs? I have a 115mm and 230mm grinders so with the correct disc in them that would be the cheapest option.

 

[Smouser]

My 2 pence.

Grinder would be the cheapest, loudest, dirtiest option by far.

However, if you need to cut a lot of box section or often, a better solution like a small bandsaw, old donkey saw or even an cold saw might be better.

As good as battery power tools are, I always find them underpowered in tools like saws and grinders and much prefer a plug in version (unless you need to use the tools where there is no power supply).

Most of my cordless tools are Makita but I don't have the two tools you listed so can't help with a real world recommendation.

 

[addjunkie]

Circular saw for sheet stuff with hot chips flying about.
Band saw slower more refined.
A grinder works, lots of sparks and dust.

All depends how much your doing! I once cut all the steel for a 24ft boat trailer inthe stock holders car park with a sthil saw. It wouldn't fit in the van in full lengths.

 

[chunkytfg]

My 2 pence.

Grinder would be the cheapest, loudest, dirtiest option by far.

However, if you need to cut a lot of box section or often, a better solution like a small bandsaw, old donkey saw or even an cold saw might be better.

As good as battery power tools are, I always find them underpowered in tools like saws and grinders and much prefer a plug in version (unless you need to use the tools where there is no power supply).

Most of my cordless tools are Makita but I don't have the two tools you listed so can't help with a real world recommendation.

Thanks.

I'm unlikely to be doing alot of the same metalwork over and over so I cant really say what I'll be cutting, I can only say what I'll be cutting this time.

I'll be working from my workshop/home though so dont specifically need cordless its just thats what I'm used to using.

 

[Gareth J]

When doing stuff with box, square (or chosen angle) cuts are really helpful.

So, a mitre saw.
To buy new, an abrasive mitre saw is cheapest. Bandsaws and cold saws are less noisy and cleaner. Evolution type carbide multi material saws somewhere in between.

Will you be metalworking without access to power? I.e, do you need to stick to battery operated things?

 

[sg66]

Corded is cheaper and cheaper to replace should it die

 

[chunkytfg]

Circular saw for sheet stuff with hot chips flying about.
Band saw slower more refined.
A grinder works, lots of sparks and dust.

All depends how much your doing! I once cut all the steel for a 24ft boat trailer inthe stock holders car park with a sthil saw. It wouldn't fit in the van in full lengths.

So basically what you're saying is everything is a compromise! It all depends on my willingness to either make a mess or spend money or fill. my workshop up with even more tools! Lol

 

[piman]

hello Chunkytfg,

you don't say what you plan to use the box section for or how accurtae you need the cuts to be?
Free hand cutting is as accurate as your skill, saws with a base are more accurate generally, e.g. a cut off saw or a lightweight band saw.
If doing a small job, I will use an angle grinder which I find fairly accurate but if its a bigger job I use my band saw for ease of use and accuracy.
Personally I wouldn't use either of the tools you highlight.

Alec

 

[chunkytfg]

hello Chunkytfg,

you don't say what you plan to use the box section for or how accurtae you need the cuts to be?
Free hand cutting is as accurate as your skill, saws with a base are more accurate generally, e.g. a cut off saw or a lightweight band saw.
If doing a small job, I will use an angle grinder which I find fairly accurate but if its a bigger job I use my band saw for ease of use and accuracy.
Personally I wouldn't use either of the tools you highlight.

Alec

So the project this is for is a metal gate 4m wide x 2m tall. So simple mitre joints. Accurate cuts are fairly essential but not absolutely critical I guess.

 

[chunkytfg]

Just to add another option.

I already own this

MAKITA LS1219L

240v Slide mitre saw - 305mm blade

www.howetools.co.uk

Is there a blade that'll work in this for cutting steel, or does it spin too fast?

 

[Gareth J]

So the project this is for is a metal gate 4m wide x 2m tall. So simple mitre joints. Accurate cuts are fairly essential but not absolutely critical I guess.

If this is your only project, scribe lines and cut with a 4" angle grinder. You'll need one anyway for other prep/cleanup if you don't have one already. I would stick to square joints.

 

[Gareth J]

Just to add another option.

I already own this

MAKITA LS1219L

240v Slide mitre saw - 305mm blade

www.howetools.co.uk

Is there a blade that'll work in this for cutting steel, or does it spin too fast?

Not worth the risk damaging it. That's a wood tool and if it duffs it up, it would be savage.

 

[Gritineye]

The best and most versatile tool for occasional use is a cheapish corded 4:1/2" angry grinder, just takes a few cuts to get the knack.
Best to do all your cutting outside when your neighbours are all away somewhere...

I built 5 of these in the 80s with an angle grinder long before the thin discs were invented!

 

[Morrisman]

One tip if doing straight 90° cuts in box, in a chop saw or band saw, is to turn the box so it’s sitting on one corner, rotated 45°. That way you are only ever cutting 2 thin pieces, not a 2” or 4” solid length at the start and the end.
Same when cutting angle bar, turn it over, don’t sit it on one flat.

You can make a simple jig to hold it in place.

 

[Porkypine]

Myself I'd just go simple and do the 4 1/2" angle grinder thing, obviously marking out for the cuts and using a bit of care, unless your'e going to mass produce a load of stuff to justify a skilsaw / chop saw type thing I wouldn't bother.

 

[RWD3M]

I bought one of these 4 years or so ago, for a little job involving a couple of hundred cuts of 50 x 50 and 22mm tube. Little used since but a great investment IMO.

 

[chip]

Just to add another option.

I already own this

MAKITA LS1219L

240v Slide mitre saw - 305mm blade

www.howetools.co.uk

Is there a blade that'll work in this for cutting steel, or does it spin too fast?

The purpose made jobs like evo etc are less than half the rpm at around 1500 rpm. I just don't like the fence and vice setup on mine,terrible if your mitre cuts are critical.

 

[Morris]

For a one off gate I would just get stuck in with a grinder and cutting discs. No extra outlay as you already have one and you'll need it for clean up. By the time you've agonised over what to buy you could have the steel cut.

 

[Dcal]

I'm with @Morris
I have all the tools mentioned so far for cutting steel.
All have their place but for a one off job I'd just use a 4 1/2 inch grinder and slitting discs.

The beauty of steel, unlike wood, is if the joint isn't perfect you can fill the gaps with the welder.
Fair enough you can't fill inch gaps (well you could) but in practice it's easy to get close enough with a grinder and a mm or two off won't make much difference.

 

[Gritineye]

One tip if doing straight 90° cuts in box, in a chop saw or band saw, is to turn the box so it’s sitting on one corner, rotated 45°. That way you are only ever cutting 2 thin pieces, not a 2” or 4” solid length at the start and the end.
Same when cutting angle bar, turn it over, don’t sit it on one flat.

You can make a simple jig to hold it in place.

Some chop saw makers warn against cutting angle iron laid that way, presumably because it can give a bit and come loose.