- Thread starter fizzy
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I do indeed but time not on my hands. I have just bought a screw cone. Also ordered a pair of heavier duty plummers blocks and a hefty 5 step taper lock pulley. Overkill but matches what I have on the motor.
Just hope the motor works. Haven't tested it.
Are you not gearing the motor down Vince? Would have thought a 10 to 1 would be minimum, and then an inverter speed control?
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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The angle available on a TTA, also, is unlikely to be sufficient. I had to resort to some elaborate bodger getting my Boxford TTA to a sufficient angle to do the job.
Yes i will use machine a shoulder and some collers.
Bearings are heavier duty than the people who supply the kit use.
The people supplying the screw suggest 400 to 500rpn. They just run off pulleys so 3:1 should be ok. I can always modify if needed.
Glad I just bought one now.
Guineafowl
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I can’t find the vid now, but I saw an Italian bloke make one. Tricky.
It’s a left-hand thread, so he had to follow the taper by tracking the cross-slide inwards as the carriage moved left to right.
If I had to do one, I might make a swan-neck threading tool.
It’s a left-hand thread, so he had to follow the taper by tracking the cross-slide inwards as the carriage moved left to right.
If I had to do one, I might make a swan-neck threading tool.
Dimple the shaft for the screws deeper than you would normally.
I would think if the wood is free to move and be pulled onto the screw as it rotates, or the feed of the log matches the screw (or viki-verki), axial loads would be well within deep groove bearing limits.
gaz1
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i would use one bearing and one car bearing as it wouldnt be affected by the loading as you push the log onto it or its side loadings
like a nissan note bearing ford or mini bearing
that means no pillar block at front or lock but the rear still wants a lock
that can be fastened to a 4x2 5mm thick with some added bits onto it for splitting
i also gain 4 points to bolt the unit solid to the post and also threaded screw
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gaz1
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the cone type can fail and pull the log well over into the pillow blocks
note the splitter underneath
now because im using a 4x2 i can also build a wider splitter as it screws down the log because its wider at the rear it aid in splitting the log
it also wouldnt bother the front bearing as its being screwed over it unlike the other machines
note the splitter underneath
now because im using a 4x2 i can also build a wider splitter as it screws down the log because its wider at the rear it aid in splitting the log
it also wouldnt bother the front bearing as its being screwed over it unlike the other machines
Good vids (for a change @gaz1 ). So no need for sillyness, just some HD bearings and a shoulder and collar to keep everything where you want them, the motor will have a switc?, NO, on the floor so if you get dragged in and start splitting it will at least stop - perhaps a reverse switch might be good, just in case?
Gaz
Thanks for those. I had seen both before.
The splitter underneath isn't to help split. It stops the log spinning underneath the cone. Keeping the cone low also makes splitting easier that trying the middle of a log. First one also had too much unsupported shaft in front of the bearing.
Yes I will actually fit a reversing switch and an emergency stop. Not my usual lash up
Guineafowl
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Top vid is “how not to use a cone splitter”. No wonder he had problems.
Putting it in sideways and just letting go is asking for trouble. He looks like he’s not been shown how to use it, and is a bit scared.
Sit the log down on the bed, grain vertical, and shove/tap it forwards to get the screw started. Guide it with your hands biased over to the left of the log. Don’t let go, just keep downward and forward pressure, keeping your hands out of the split.
Guineafowl
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Depends a lot on the type of wood - I used to run mine on a Super Dexta, 40hp-ish, and some of the uglies (elm, knotty softwoods) I put through it did labour the engine a bit. Nice, straight ash, oak or chestnut a different story.
For motors, I’d say the bigger the better, as you don’t want it stalling. With plenty of torque, and proper technique, the worst that can happen is the screw thread strips, and you have to bash the log backwards (hence beefy chopper) and try somewhere else.
daleyd
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I’ve got some emergency stop stations (telemcanique) that I picked up - quite old (they’ve not been telemcanique for years, they were rebranded by Schneider) but brand new in box and never used, if you want one I’ll Chuck it in post for you.Yes I will actually fit a reversing switch and an emergency stop. Not my usual lash up
Here's a couple of photos of the one in the yard. Looks like there must be a thrust bearing of sorts in the front of the tube nearest the spiral. Hadn't remembered that it is just a straight through drive so speed of rotation very much depends upon the pto speed of the tractor. This used to go on the back of an old Fordson Major. Long since replaced with a hydraulic ram splitter. 
