Stuff you have made today

[E T]

A stand for the surface plate.
I thought it better to not keep it in the dusty workshop.
It has four casters so it can be wheeled around if need be and four levelling feet. The plate sits on three adjustable feet.
Don't know if those are on the bessel points, because I couldn't find any markings on the underside.
I still need to make some sort of cover for it.

 

[Hitch]

Did a bit on this today. Due to be finished in the next couple of weeks.

Replica railway sign, to go in a private 'museum' collection.
Decent size too, full sheet length.

 

[Memmeddu]

Today has been a rough day
Starting at the morning
I was completing a bucket repair because they should have been going to pick it up before lunch
So I went to my workplace at 7:30
I was welding when someone decided to modify a go kart into a soap box...
Well they didn't tell me that they just say make brakes for it
So I spent a good hour seeking for car calipers that may fit a 210x10 disc
When they finally said it wasn't going to have an engine in it
Well rubber band on a drum and it's done
Not I've had to make an unnecessary contraption that never worked and I've been threated like an idiot.
It was the end of the morning Andre I've had to finish the bucket.
Didn't have lunch for that and they didn't even come to pick it up.
In the evening again struggling with the go kart and again I'm an idiot...
Back home an idiot didn't stop crossing My way ...
I've pushed hard on the brakes eard a pop and the pedal hit the floor.
Didn't crashed but my car it's not usable right now.
At least I can complete the chainsaw restoration video.
I've had a very hard time with this one too
Carburetor won't fit the hose, diaphragms won't fit the carb, but what made me mad is almost 100 euro of original Stihl bar and chain that won't fit the chainsaw
So no video this week either ...
I've ran out of patience today....

Anyways at least it's fully assembled

And it looks a complete different saw from the beginning

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Well I had time to spare.

Again Lego QA was wanting.

 

[Memmeddu]

Replaced the broken brake line on my punto
Apparently it has been pinched somewhere
Went looking for a new bar and chain for the Ms361no luck I have to order it

 

[My Old Landy]

Made a start on a development rig. Although it is for a work project, it will make my life easier and I can use it after as I designed and built it

 

[oldbikedavey]

Mostly a start on the core box for the Bantam reed - valve barrel , using little ply offcuts staggered according to the internal curve parameters.
I'll very likely smooth it all up with filler and get a reasonably coherent form and finish , and visualise things further before making up the first core pieces...

 

[Blue Chips]

We're making slow, but reasonably steady progress on the new garage. I built the forms for pouring the concrete sills under the garage doors and had a friend help with the heavy lifting to mix 15 80-pound bags of ready-mix and pour it into the forms. There is plenty of rebar in the sills, both lengthwise and keyed into the underlying foundation. I troweled it nice and flat, with the drainage slope recommended for the sills. I had to keep the concrete moist and well above freezing for a few days after the pour, so I covered it with a couple of feet of faced insulation and placed a thermometer on the concrete to check it periodically. The combination of the ground temperature (the foundation was poured directly on bedrock) and the warmth from the exothermic curing kept it from dropping below 40F, despite much colder ambient air temperatures. I think the sills turned out pretty well.

The next step will to pour the concrete floor slab. It will average 7-1/2" thick and the mix will contain chopped fiberglass. It will have a 1/8 inch/foot slope from the back of the garage to the front for drainage (3 inches over 25 feet). It's still cold here, so in order to keep the inside of the garage warm enough for the concrete pour, I installed rafter baffles on the underside of the roof sheathing, wind blocks to keep wind from the soffit vents from entering the fiberglass insulation that I installed between the ceiling joists. I temporarily covered the future stairway opening to the garage attic with poly sheet. Walls will be insulated and covered later, after the wiring is done. The windows are double-glazed, and the garage doors are insulated. I have a 5kw 240V portable electric heater that should be adequate to keep it warm enough for the pour. I plan to install 1/2" plywood on the ceiling after the floor is finished. If all goes well, we should be pouring the floor slab next week. We'll put wet burlap (hessian) over the concrete, and cover the hessian with the insulating blankets that you can see in the foreground. That should keep the concrete warm and moist for a few days. I'll check it periodically and spray it with water when necessary to keep it moist for a stronger cure.

Today I installed the expansion joint strips against the concrete door sills. The floor slab will float independently of the foundation and sills to allow for expansion and contraction. Contraction grooves will be cut into the concrete as soon as it's adequately set for that task. The concrete contractor will give the crushed stone a final compacting before laying a poly sheet vapor barrier over it. Since the garage won't be heated, except for very brief periods, we opted not to place insulation under the concrete slab, but rather incorporate the crushed stone and bedrock as a large thermal mass that will help keep the unheated garage somewhat warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. From past experience I found this approach to work quite well in our climate zone.

Still lots more work to do on the garage, both inside and outside.

 

[roblane65]

yesterday actually I made a start on solving the no cranking issue with the range rover !
similar issues to either a duff battery or starter but then wouldn't crank at all , so battery is good put a power probe to stater and starters good so a bit of metering and the 12v to starter is only getting 6 or 7v a bit of YTing and it's all pointing to the switch block on the bottom of the barrel well , an hour so of finding hidden fixings and it's out
View attachment 486023View attachment 486024View attachment 486025
and the offending article
View attachment 486026
high resistance across the pins which supply the starter motor so new switch block on order and hopefully she'll be up and running again . Apparently a common issue on older vehicle ,well it is twenty this year .

a little update , still no crank some more investigating is need ! ................. it will go again at some point time is more the problem at the mo.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Guess what one I made?

Yep.

 

[arther dailey]

A 2” slick for a forum member,used an HGV leaf spring.View attachment 486381

what do you use a "slick" for ? looks like a tapered wedge to me but obviously has aspecific use going by the tang

 

[arther dailey]

View attachment 486703



Guess what one I made?



View attachment 486704


Yep.


View attachment 486705

liking that , a baby true wooden pallet would be even better though ,with say old little glow plug motor or similar.. as the fork lift is really good in itself .

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

liking that , a baby true wooden pallet would be even better though ,with say old little glow plug motor or similar.. as the fork lift is really good in itself .

We are getting there.

 

[My Old Landy]

I can't take credit for the wiring, as my hands no longer work properly. My wife is a dab hand at things like this so put it together for me.
Quite pleased with the result, it did make me realise the enclosure needed to be bigger!
I also realised I didn't need the rotary encoder so I have dropped it from the design

 

[Memmeddu]

Finished edited uploaded
It needs a new carb

 

[galooph]

Made a storage rack out of some chipboard offcuts and leftover perforated angle for some of my Stanley sortmaster boxes. There was just enough space!

Thanks to @Theblackbox for mentioning Dafra recently, too. I knew I'd not be able to fit rivnuts into the steel cabinet sides with my long arm rivnut tool, so slashed out on the Dafra ratchet tool. Worked really well and is lovely to use. Much better feedback as to how tight you're pulling the rivnut than my other rivnut tool

Set these perfectly flush.

 

[DennisCA]

Rebuilding my homemade compressor a bit while I am between car projects. Been meaning to do this for a while now. Mainly putting the tank upside down by mounting it on a shelf, that way the water that is collected in the tank will more easily drain out via the valve I got on the top/bottom. I'm also gonna route the air intake so it gets it from the outside.

I will have to go and buy some extra fittings to hook everything up in it's new configuration but it's almost done. On the other side of the wall I got a 3-phase motor and bigger compressor block I got from a hospital.

 

[sako243]

Half a cube of concrete berm

Three of our four sequoias are ill, @8ob reckons root rot because the ground is saturated. We get a fair run off from the road when it rains so step one in preventing them dying off completely (hopefully) is to stop the water coming down the drive.

Killed my Belle mixer in the process. I've heard rumours they have plastic gears now so I may just make it chain drive off the PTO on the compact tractor. Also gets rid of the need for electric...

 

[northwest]

Well, in the spirit of the forum I did some actual welding today - just as a distraction while I was rebuilding/installing the ballscrew for the crosslide on the little CNC lathe:



I hae absolutely no idea whether I was doing it "properly" wrongly or totally wreong, but it worked and it is strong so thats a result as far as I am concerned, It will be in the post tomorrow. The showstopper was, as always now, the bloody battery had gone flat in the Optrel helmet again so had to put it on charge for a couple hours before I started.

 

[Melvyn Best]

Half a cube of concrete berm
View attachment 486941
Three of our four sequoias are ill, @8ob reckons root rot because the ground is saturated. We get a fair run off from the road when it rains so step one in preventing them dying off completely (hopefully) is to stop the water coming down the drive.

Killed my Belle mixer in the process. I've heard rumours they have plastic gears now so I may just make it chain drive off the PTO on the compact tractor. Also gets rid of the need for electric...

You can buy the plastic gear fairly cheaply, it’s held on with pop rivets IIRC.?