DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,493
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Print up some full brick width plus three mm very fine mesh inserts with a blocked back end and a light part seal hole diaphragm at the front end so that it closes up smugly over the thread .
Do a test fill one with Araldite quick cure and some threaded bar and see if it leaks out easily .
Re- do to a smaller mesh if it does , even resorting to using a bit of old tights or nylons pushed inside the insert to make a sack for the epoxy . For once you push the bolt thread in it will force some of the epoxy out through the mesh and some will stick on the brick work , elsewhere it will likely end up as loads of tiny beads of resin where there is no brick,
I had to do this when anchoring a small 10 kg wall safe to a cinder block wall .
Drill several different diameter holes so you get a nice clean un-shattered hole of the right size if possible , make a big pop bottle hole puffer with a bit of tube glued in the cap so you get a reasonable dust free hole . A lot of the chemical fix companies recommend using a mini bottle brush to sweep the hole and use the puffer bottle once again after brushing out so the hole is really clean & free of unwanted grit & brick dust that would prevent you getting the optimum chemical anchoring being absorbed by the brick work .
Be wary of drilling the mortar joints along the courses & horizontals & perps , when you see how the brickies butter the brick with just enough barely correct mix of mortar to give the 10 mm spacing between courses often mainly at the front face of the brick and brick ends , you'll realise they could be hollow just a few mm in from the pointing on the finished brick work .
When I did my NVQ 1,2 & 3 brickies course in 1985 the master builder demanded we completely buttered the ends of the bricks well & fully fill all brick before we put the top mortar layer on so the wall had maximum strength and gave us guys building the wall some sort of protection in the future if the wall came down for any reason & injured or killed people etc etc. ( HASAW at its best protecting you from the blame game ) .
A new house built about 10 yrs ago just down the road from us had a fancy out of line row of bricks half way up the walls , The next morning you could see daylight through them where there wasn't a decent amount of mortar . T'was even funnier when they came to blow fibre insulation in the cavity walls as it also came out of a lot of those holes .
Is th facing front on the bricks nice and baked in or can you split it off with a light hammer blow ??
Do a test fill one with Araldite quick cure and some threaded bar and see if it leaks out easily .
Re- do to a smaller mesh if it does , even resorting to using a bit of old tights or nylons pushed inside the insert to make a sack for the epoxy . For once you push the bolt thread in it will force some of the epoxy out through the mesh and some will stick on the brick work , elsewhere it will likely end up as loads of tiny beads of resin where there is no brick,
I had to do this when anchoring a small 10 kg wall safe to a cinder block wall .
Drill several different diameter holes so you get a nice clean un-shattered hole of the right size if possible , make a big pop bottle hole puffer with a bit of tube glued in the cap so you get a reasonable dust free hole . A lot of the chemical fix companies recommend using a mini bottle brush to sweep the hole and use the puffer bottle once again after brushing out so the hole is really clean & free of unwanted grit & brick dust that would prevent you getting the optimum chemical anchoring being absorbed by the brick work .
Be wary of drilling the mortar joints along the courses & horizontals & perps , when you see how the brickies butter the brick with just enough barely correct mix of mortar to give the 10 mm spacing between courses often mainly at the front face of the brick and brick ends , you'll realise they could be hollow just a few mm in from the pointing on the finished brick work .
When I did my NVQ 1,2 & 3 brickies course in 1985 the master builder demanded we completely buttered the ends of the bricks well & fully fill all brick before we put the top mortar layer on so the wall had maximum strength and gave us guys building the wall some sort of protection in the future if the wall came down for any reason & injured or killed people etc etc. ( HASAW at its best protecting you from the blame game ) .
A new house built about 10 yrs ago just down the road from us had a fancy out of line row of bricks half way up the walls , The next morning you could see daylight through them where there wasn't a decent amount of mortar . T'was even funnier when they came to blow fibre insulation in the cavity walls as it also came out of a lot of those holes .
Is th facing front on the bricks nice and baked in or can you split it off with a light hammer blow ??
