Many thanks! I’ll look into this.If you can find a Ridgid plumber's test pump, or similar, you can do it yourself.
Right, I see. I was looking at one of these, I think, in order to remove moisture. Is it something like this, that would go after the pressure gauge on the tank? Double or single better?! Ah, I see, one side is for lubricating a wrench etc.? Many thanks!on the output from tank you will need a water seperator pressure regulator for spraying. most air tools run at about 90 psi, the tank pressure will be a fair bit more some at 120 psi some higher
Hmmm, bit concerned on the lack previous drainage…I’ll give my gun a try, as I’ve found a decent priced air inlet bit and also look into an lvlp, as I had not come across those. Many thanks!Check out the water drain plug too - should be free to turn - but they can also gum/rust up with tank sludge. Drain regularly after using for any amount of time.
Try your old jga gun and see - but it will probably need more pressure than modern guns - if problematic you could look at lvlp guns (better than hvlp where compressor outputs are minimal)
....and if nothing comes out of the tank when the drain is open use a piece of welding wire or similar to poke inside - commonly gunge and rust can block things up - sometimes I've even had to run the motor to build a little pressure while poking around....Hmmm, bit concerned on the lack previous drainage…I’ll give my gun a try....
I hope so and it should be given the unbelievable weight of the thing! That’s reassuring, thanksThere was quite a lot if water & rusty flakes in mine when I got it home& cleared it out (my reciever tank had the larger bungs on so I got one loose & peered about with a torch & could get a hand inside.
These old tanks are so thick and solid that I think one going bang like a burst balloon is highly improbable. More likely a pinhole leak would occur around the underside - but even that would take a huge amount of corrosion on a cylinder built to the way more pressure than the pump & blow-off valve would ever be able to get to.
Once I'd ran mine up to pressure a few times I simply stopped thinking about it (beyond regular opening of the bottom drain to keep water build-up down).
But still ok to use, I assume. Also reassuring. I shall have good look through that. Hope those weren’t the Boss’s best pansLook at the gunge that came out of mine. Clearly it had not been drained in years.
Thread 'Ingersoll Rand compressor resurrection' https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/ingersoll-rand-compressor-resurrection.99662/
Thanks…and no need to rub it inOnce I'd cleaned it out I looked inside with a borescope. The lower part looked like the surface of the moon. However, it's still a sound receiver.
No boss to worry about![]()
Drive pulley hasn't been welded.
The pulley has not been welded. Look closer.
That's a good point about the hydrostatic testing - I did the grease gun trick on mine (though I used a Wanner oil gun as my grease gun just leaked the water out again...).Motor is less than a hundred years old!
Possibly worth filling the receiver completely full of water and hydraulically testing it at 50% above the working pressure. A grease gun can raise the pressure as long as there is no air space. Some use a pressure washer to carefully raise the pressure to the test value.
It is a pulley, not a flywheel (which would be a dangerous repair). I would think (a guess) it’s likely no later than 1950s.
If the 1, on the motor plate, indicates 1 HP, it won’t provide so much free air, but should be easily sufficient for a small spray gun (possibly not an external fan(?) type sprayer). likely 2 or 3 cfm at most.
I missed that completely. I feel contriteNo but in the first image 4 out of the 6 spokes on the driven pulley have been by the looks of it.