I was wondering if the lack of use since December due to me working on the conversion had exacerbated the problem (combined with 7-months of almost constantly miserable wet weather).
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
We picked up a 1970 Honda C50 for a chap a few weeks back, poor runner etc.
He'd had a go but couldn't make any headway.
Managed to find some NOS gaskets (look at the box, proper old stock!).
Stripped carb down, good clean and inspection.
Had a job to remove it from the bike as both nuts had been stripped (ruining the studs in the cylinder head inlet).
Replaced studs and checked new oring would seal with a ruler, don't need a ruler to see how bent the carb flange is!.
Ended up hand filing it flat (and a bit of surrounding area to make sure it will sit flush on cylinder head.
All back together, just waiting for a couple of inline fuel filters before starting her up.
Something a bit different, did 40 hours of wiring repairs last week, not a fun week tbh..
He'd had a go but couldn't make any headway.
Managed to find some NOS gaskets (look at the box, proper old stock!).
Stripped carb down, good clean and inspection.
Had a job to remove it from the bike as both nuts had been stripped (ruining the studs in the cylinder head inlet).
Replaced studs and checked new oring would seal with a ruler, don't need a ruler to see how bent the carb flange is!.
Ended up hand filing it flat (and a bit of surrounding area to make sure it will sit flush on cylinder head.
All back together, just waiting for a couple of inline fuel filters before starting her up.
Something a bit different, did 40 hours of wiring repairs last week, not a fun week tbh..
^^^^^^^ You need a milling machine.
Would be nice!, and a lathe too .
Red'n'Black
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That's in nice nick.
Fair play to you, I'd never get that anywhere close to flat with a file.
Brad93
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Might be an idea to get a surface plate, spray adhesive a bit of wet and dry to the surface and then you can use that to finish your part off very flat
Dcal
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And there is a very nice surface plate in the for sale section that would be perfect for the job.
It would also stop me buying it, because I have more than enough surface plates already.
I paid what @Brad93 is asking for one that was rusted red and needed scraping.
It would also stop me buying it, because I have more than enough surface plates already.
I paid what @Brad93 is asking for one that was rusted red and needed scraping.
Brad93
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I think someone may be coming to collect that one today or tomorrow. But yeah it's been scraped properly and glides on my granite when flipped upside down.
Just needed to get it gone as i don't have the space for it - and they don't seem to fetch much money anymore now the scraping fad is dying down.
Smouser
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I fixed my spare welding helmet today.
It is an ESAB Warrior Tech helmet and the 'low battery' led has been flashing for ages. It must have finally died as the helmet was completely dead.
I am unsure if the charging circuit (there is a small solar panel) is broken or if the battery was completely knackered.
To get the lens/circuit board out, you need to remove the knob on the side of the helmet.
The whole lens/circuit board can then be removed by unscrewing two thumb screws.
I used some picks to open the circuit board's enclosure.
This is what it looks like inside.
The battery (CR2450) is a 'permanent' battery, not designed to be replaced.
I snipped the welded terminals off and removed the old battery.
It will be replaced with a CR2032 battery holder.
A CR2032 has the same voltage as a CR2450 battery but less capacity.
I drilled a hole in the casing for the wires to pass through and did some dodgy soldering.
All done!
The helmet works again and I can replace the battery easily if/when required.
It is an ESAB Warrior Tech helmet and the 'low battery' led has been flashing for ages. It must have finally died as the helmet was completely dead.
I am unsure if the charging circuit (there is a small solar panel) is broken or if the battery was completely knackered.
To get the lens/circuit board out, you need to remove the knob on the side of the helmet.
The whole lens/circuit board can then be removed by unscrewing two thumb screws.
I used some picks to open the circuit board's enclosure.
This is what it looks like inside.
The battery (CR2450) is a 'permanent' battery, not designed to be replaced.
I snipped the welded terminals off and removed the old battery.
It will be replaced with a CR2032 battery holder.
A CR2032 has the same voltage as a CR2450 battery but less capacity.
I drilled a hole in the casing for the wires to pass through and did some dodgy soldering.
All done!
The helmet works again and I can replace the battery easily if/when required.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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After the saga of my very expensive, wrong-sized tyre valves, I got one the correct size. How to fit it? Fortunately the tyre fitters had removed the old one before discovering they didn't have a replacement. They left the tyre off the bead. One of my wood-working cramps came in handy to hold the tyre clear, and I was able to wiggle it in with the aid of my long nose, curved pliers. A bit of MS4 to aid fitting. But how to pull it in. The thread is a weirdo, and the fitting tool is £7. After a little think I remembered the tyre valve thread tool that had been languishing, unloved for over 40 years. Yes, I knew where it was.
Once again, the pliers were the perfect tool pulling in.
This also gave me an excuse to fire up my IR compressor which has not been run for maybe 15 months.
After a liberal dousing around the bead with soapy water, the 120psi soon had the bead reseated and pumped up to pressure.
The jobs a good 'un
Once again, the pliers were the perfect tool pulling in.
This also gave me an excuse to fire up my IR compressor which has not been run for maybe 15 months.
After a liberal dousing around the bead with soapy water, the 120psi soon had the bead reseated and pumped up to pressure.
The jobs a good 'un
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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A granite chopping board or a bit of polished grave stone is much cheaper than a surface plate Even a square of flow made plate glass 1/2 to 3/4 " thick is good too & they can be had very cheaply too
Brad93
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I'd be surprised if a chopping board is particularly flat to be honest.
Float Glass is okay for some applications, but it is not stable nor rigid. I watched an old boy at work chase blue islands on a bronze wedge valve for three days before he gave up. He was using a 6mm thick piece of float glass.
The pressure he was exerting blueing the part was flexing the glass.
He was one of those people, you couldn't tell them.
This was prior to me knowing clive and taking his introduction to scraping course.
Depends what you're going for, if i'm talking flatness i'm talking better than 10 microns.
My new surface plate was 3um when new. I suspect it's now probably double that, still shop floor grade.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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My 12x12 "polished granite board seems as though it's flat I can't see light under the precision straight edge no matter which direction I look at it , 
It's good enough for me as I only work to the nearest foot or so .
It's good enough for me as I only work to the nearest foot or so .
Brad93
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Generally seeing light between two planes is only accurate to about a thou. Theres actually a colour shift that can be seen due to the diffraction of light through a slit.My 12x12 "polished granite board seems as though it's flat I can't see light under the precision straight edge no matter which direction I look at it ,
So if we said well its flat to a thou, thats 25 microns. Yes probably acceptable as a magic sanding plate (
We had a glass plate that we used for flatting off warped single cylinder heads.
Anything else goes to the machine shop.
For carb flanges my big file does a very good job, flat enough for a good O ring seal (I added a wipe of Three Bond as well).
Will look into some of the suggestions above.
Anything else goes to the machine shop.
For carb flanges my big file does a very good job, flat enough for a good O ring seal (I added a wipe of Three Bond as well).
Will look into some of the suggestions above.
Some of you might remember that we had an issue back in April with an Audi A4 demolishing our front fence on the A21 and "doing a runner" - but I found him!
Well at last the NFU have extracted the dosh from his insurance company and the fencers have put up the new fence. Now just waiting for the temporary traffic lights to be removed.
It took three days in the end for two blokes. Including "Traffic Management" it cost just shy of £8,000 !
Traffic Management in place
Google Maps says traffic building up nicely
New Fence erected
New Bollards in place
Well at last the NFU have extracted the dosh from his insurance company and the fencers have put up the new fence. Now just waiting for the temporary traffic lights to be removed.
It took three days in the end for two blokes. Including "Traffic Management" it cost just shy of £8,000 !
Traffic Management in place
Google Maps says traffic building up nicely
New Fence erected
New Bollards in place
ajlelectronics
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From the "things that bug me" thread... specialist supplied the chassis repair plates which were totally incorrect in shape as well as size. I did some cutting and shutting today and I think that this is what it ought to look like, attached to a new side rail. It is going to be simpler to fit that as one assembly I suspect. Test fitted it with a couple of tacks and it appears to be a reasonable fit. I had my gas backed off to 5 lpm for some reason and I seem to be out of practice! Couldn't find my finger sander either, which would have made it look better.
Welding up can wait for next week I think as I need to prepare the GTC for the show on Sunday.
Welding up can wait for next week I think as I need to prepare the GTC for the show on Sunday.
Memmeddu
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My colleague asked two weeks ago if I could lend him my engine driven welder.
He has to fix his gate in a property in woods, no power over there.
So I propose him to go there together cause my engine driven is completely mechanical, no fancy electronics to control it, an engine and an alternator.
Last time I've used my GenSet she was running poorly and it made me struggle.
So today once back from work I've removed the carb for cleaning, lots of rust powder in it belonging from the tank.
I've cleaned the bowl, the jets, butterfly valves, the internal passages and the venturi tube.
External will stay dirty till I have the time to address the thing properly.
But I've decided to repair the stud's threads.
So used my new to me tap wrench and just because I won't to dig out my drill and tapping box (with the good stuff in it) I've used my cheap sae metric set .
So tapped the holes to M6x1mm no problem.
I've then ruined a stud because I wasn't able to get the die chasing the threads correctly.
And ruined the other one because I didn't think how to loosen the nut once prolonged the threads which go into the carb .
So time for new studs I guessed.
Took two M6 screws but had to cut them to length.
How to clamp them in the vice?
I've had little bit of brainstorming as I didn't have a nut long enough to use another screw to keep it still .
And broken a die too because I have to buy expensive stuff and not be cheap buying cheap sets .
So I've took a nut and splitted with an hacksaw.
Cleaned the threads put the screw in and tightened the nut in the vice.
It worked very well the nut clamped onto the screws without ruining the threads.
Again hacksaw, cut to length.
Unscrew little bit, champhered the edge with a file stroking anticlockwise around the threads.
Did it twice...
Cleaned them up with the die.
Loctite on the stud, Loctite in the threaded hole, screwed the stud in and tightened them up.
Anyways here the results.
I'll let the Loctite cure over night and hopefully tomorrow after work in the evening I'll be able to put it back together and test the welder if it solved the problem as it most likely had an air leak because of those studs
He has to fix his gate in a property in woods, no power over there.
So I propose him to go there together cause my engine driven is completely mechanical, no fancy electronics to control it, an engine and an alternator.
Last time I've used my GenSet she was running poorly and it made me struggle.
So today once back from work I've removed the carb for cleaning, lots of rust powder in it belonging from the tank.
I've cleaned the bowl, the jets, butterfly valves, the internal passages and the venturi tube.
External will stay dirty till I have the time to address the thing properly.
But I've decided to repair the stud's threads.
So used my new to me tap wrench and just because I won't to dig out my drill and tapping box (with the good stuff in it) I've used my cheap sae metric set .
So tapped the holes to M6x1mm no problem.
I've then ruined a stud because I wasn't able to get the die chasing the threads correctly.
And ruined the other one because I didn't think how to loosen the nut once prolonged the threads which go into the carb .
So time for new studs I guessed.
Took two M6 screws but had to cut them to length.
How to clamp them in the vice?
I've had little bit of brainstorming as I didn't have a nut long enough to use another screw to keep it still .
And broken a die too because I have to buy expensive stuff and not be cheap buying cheap sets .
So I've took a nut and splitted with an hacksaw.
Cleaned the threads put the screw in and tightened the nut in the vice.
It worked very well the nut clamped onto the screws without ruining the threads.
Again hacksaw, cut to length.
Unscrew little bit, champhered the edge with a file stroking anticlockwise around the threads.
Did it twice...
Cleaned them up with the die.
Loctite on the stud, Loctite in the threaded hole, screwed the stud in and tightened them up.
Anyways here the results.
I'll let the Loctite cure over night and hopefully tomorrow after work in the evening I'll be able to put it back together and test the welder if it solved the problem as it most likely had an air leak because of those studs
