Cylinder block corrosion

[Smallfry]

With my ongoing problem with a Rover V8 engine in my Coupe, the next obstacle is corrosion on the block to head face. On one cylinder it is right up to the liner, so more like as not there will be a compression leak to waterway.
It is its original engine, and while it might be easy to find another block, as I have more or less decided to sell it, I would rather it go with its original engine as I dont want to spend money on it.

I tried JB weld Extreme Heat, but that came straight off with a pressure washer, despite the claim that it is waterproof. I have got some Technoweld somewhere, but I imagine the problem will be getting enough heat into the block for it to work. It melts at 380 degrees C and is supposed to be harder than aluminium, so should work ?

Anyone had any experience of it, or maybe got any other bodges low cost repairs ideas ?

 

[dobbslc]

I thought Devcon was the go too for this sort of thing.

 

[Woody.v8]

I would say that unfortunately the block is scrap, it is far gone that one .

 

[8ob]

Could try grinding out the corrosion and running some of that very low temp ali solder/Lumiweld into the pits.

Bob

 

[Morris]

If that's what you can see then the bits you can't will be worse. My Standard 12 ally head looked like that, it was rotten inside.

 

[Fazerruss]

It's it's aluminium then grind out the corrosion, TIG it with 4043 then a very light skin.
Job done

 

[colnerov]

I've had that in the past, JB weld spread it on the damaged area lightly, gasket on, head on and tighten it down before it sets. Job done, no problems.

 

[winchman]

Bellzona? At £400 a tub you may find some one who has some spare, our local valve repair place is insurance approved to do Belzona repairs to valve faces so it must be good

 

[tigdlo]

There is a cold metal spray process for aluminium, I have no experience of this company or the process, https://www.chaseengines.co.uk/services/casting-repair

 

[addjunkie]

I thought Devcon was the go too for this sort of thing.

It was, but Belzona seems far more available now, both are pricey and you need to get the right one for the application.

Bellzona? At £400 a tub you may find some one who has some spare, our local valve repair place is insurance approved to do Belzona repairs to valve faces so it must be good

You want Belzona 1111. Many ships and oil installations survive on this stuff. Can be machined, drilled tapped etc.

It keeps surprisingly well too if your careful not to contaminate the two parts once opened.

 

[jsf55]

If a 20 thou skim of the block would clean it up go for that and use the composite gaskets instead of tins to restore some of the deck height ... random post on it

Decking the rover 3.9 block and compression ratio : MG Engine Swaps Forum : The MG Experience

I am usually pretty fussy assembling an engine. CCing and measuring everything, particularly on my supercharged stuff. However I must admit to doing a bit of a ruffy on my 3.9 V8. It was low compression so I got a set of "rover" 9.35 pistons. it has the later type 10 bolt heads which

www.mgexp.com

I did this with my engine and it run perfectly the other option is to pick up a 3.9 and enjoy the extra torque ?

 

[Smallfry]

Could try grinding out the corrosion and running some of that very low temp ali solder/Lumiweld into the pits.

Bob

The Technoweld stuff I have is the same as Lumiweld I think. The problem is getting enough heat in to block for it to work. No oxy acetylene unfortunately.

 

[Smallfry]

It's it's aluminium then grind out the corrosion, TIG it with 4043 then a very light skin.
Job done

I know this will do it, BUT. No TIG stuff, plus I do not know anyone with it, and skimming adds to cost which I want to avoid.

 

[Smallfry]

If that's what you can see then the bits you can't will be worse. My Standard 12 ally head looked like that, it was rotten inside.

The rest of it is fine, as are the heads. I actually have spares anyway. I have got a perfect block with absolutely no bore wear at all, along with al the better, expensive parts to rebuild it, but I do not want to sacrifice them on something I want to sell, as it will not enhance the selling price. I wanted to keep it for a rainy day that will probably never come !

You also know what the rivet counters are like, so better with the original engine.

 

[chrismac]

I did the same on a Chrysler engine fitted to a fire pump, granted it was not to the combustion chamber only between the oil and water ways, used either extreme heat jb weld or devcon, worked okay I just cant for the life of me remember which I used.

 

[minimutly]

If a 20 thou skim of the block would clean it up go for that and use the composite gaskets instead of tins to restore some of the deck height ... random post on it

Decking the rover 3.9 block and compression ratio : MG Engine Swaps Forum : The MG Experience

I am usually pretty fussy assembling an engine. CCing and measuring everything, particularly on my supercharged stuff. However I must admit to doing a bit of a ruffy on my 3.9 V8. It was low compression so I got a set of "rover" 9.35 pistons. it has the later type 10 bolt heads which

www.mgexp.com

I did this with my engine and it run perfectly the other option is to pick up a 3.9 and enjoy the extra torque ?

I did this too, not because I had a corroded block but to get the dished and topped 3.9 pistons to work in a 4.2.
I had a hell of a job to get the block into my fritz werner though, it only just fitted.

 

[winchman]

It keeps surprisingly well too if your careful not to contaminate the two parts once opened.

My well out of date tub has worked well when I have needed it

 

[addjunkie]

My well out of date tub has worked well when I have needed it

There a 1kg tub in ebay at 85quid…..make him an offer for 50. Will be money well spent. A kg goes a long way!