Recommendations for replacement wired home alarm systems?

[jimbo84]

A lot of it depends on how it has been originally wired. If the cables have been installed with care they’ll last a very long time.

As is often the case lash them in under carpets, bad bends, pulled tight, jammed into cracks/gaps bad clipping/stapling and they’ll not last long at all.

 

[JOEPRO]

A lot of it depends on how it has been originally wired. If the cables have been installed with care they’ll last a very long time.

As is often the case lash them in under carpets, bad bends, pulled tight, jammed into cracks/gaps bad clipping/stapling and they’ll not last long at all.

These runs were run trough loft and well out of the way so they are all in good shape and should stay that way all being well

 

[MetalMonkey]

A wired alarm system is always superior to any battery powered or other radio system in my mind

This is my experience too, WiFi is pretty good thesedays, but wired is reliable and doesn't have the hassle of batteries.

 

[JOEPRO]

This is my experience too, WiFi is pretty good thesedays, but wired is reliable and doesn't have the hassle of batteries.

My existing wired alarm was 20 years old and wasn't serviced once But it was still working on mains.

Are people really going to keep up with replacing the batteries in wireless PIR's and door contacts etc for years on end religiously? I wouldn't think so.

 

[JOEPRO]

I have a wireless alarm now!

 

[JOEPRO]

All better





Just need to fill the ole now and touch the paint in.

Note to self - don't install the 4th screw!



The original cable tail was all damaged by plasterers before with bare wires in several places so this is probably for the better with a new virgin flex soldered back in.

 

[Robotstar5]

Don't forget to check your insurance if you tick the "alarm fitted" box, some of them require installation & maintenance by an NSI or SSAIB registered company.

 

[JOEPRO]

Don't forget to check your insurance if you tick the "alarm fitted" box, some of them require installation & maintenance by an NSI or SSAIB registered company.

Any time I am filling out house insurance forms there are always several questions about the alarm system. About who installed it and what category etc and if it is maintained and monitored to name a few. I always select the lowest grade of "alarm- other alarm - not maintained"

 

[DAPPH]

It's actually a silver core wire whatever it is and has no signs of corrosion of any kind.

A wired alarm system is always superior to any battery powered or other radio system in my mind

That depends on if your wiring is an aerial and picks up taxi radio interference etc.
What you say is silver core is likely multi strand tinned wire conductors which is good , back in the early 80's any system over two years old often had single conductor multi core telephone cables screwed into chocolate block connectors .
Many a time I'd have to spend hours trying to locate a hidden block that had sheared the conductors.

 

[DAPPH]

My existing wired alarm was 20 years old and wasn't serviced once But it was still working on mains.

Are people really going to keep up with replacing the batteries in wireless PIR's and door contacts etc for years on end religiously? I wouldn't think so.

For me it usually was a case of many customers struggling with their business etc they didn't like spending money on what they didn't want , but found they weren't insured if they didn't have aa recognisable quality of alarm system.

The ease of fitting WIFI systems often wins out with a much lower cost time and time again due to lower cost of installation time and little or no disruption at the installation site . Changing the batteries on the WIFI sensors was no hassle at all .. even better in pubs clubs and other places of mass entertainment there were no cables to be tampered with by those criminals in the know .

One pub I was called to had a so called professional system installed a few months earlier hard wired running cable through the cubicle of the gents toilet to a protected spirit stock room . MR Crim had used a fag lighter to burn the insulation of the cable and then used a meter to locate which wire was which and looped the multiple sensors out .

 

[DAPPH]

All better

View attachment 455041

View attachment 455042

Just need to fill the ole now and touch the paint in.

Note to self - don't install the 4th screw!

View attachment 455043

The original cable tail was all damaged by plasterers before with bare wires in several places so this is probably for the better with a new virgin flex soldered back in.

Nice repair there .
It's not only alarm cables that get the attention of people pitting up shelves , plasterers & carpet fitters .

 

[MetalMonkey]

One pub I was called to had a so called professional system installed a few months earlier hard wired running cable through the cubicle of the gents toilet to a protected spirit stock room . MR Crim had used a fag lighter to burn the insulation of the cable and then used a meter to locate which wire was which and looped the multiple sensors out .

FSL FTW problem solved

 

[JOEPRO]

I was taking my time and being thorough with the installation so far. Some items that have annoyed me forever include the plastered in Kitchen PIR:



I chipped that out and repaired the plaster behind. That is drying out then the new PIR will be installed properly.

The past installer didn't leave any extra on the junction box cables which is a PITA. And it's already up tight against a shelf and the shelf is on a roof beam. So I will tidy the wires up and will have to solder on extensions to some of them. (Board just mounted below I will tidy the cables next and terminate them)



Past installer was tidy with the alarm cable routing and clipping generally around house. But the board was thrown on with miss matching screws pulling out of the stud wall. There was a 2.5mm T&E cable lashed into a socket and clipped on the surface into the board with white round clips

So I used proper fixings into the stud wall and also routed a new cable into the stud wall and into a new fused spur also recessed into the wall. Doing it right is taking more time but worth it.

The WiFi / smart box is on the right which gets patched into the main board.

 

[JOEPRO]

I have changed my mind end went for the blue LED wired keypad

If anyone is interested I have a new keypad and good used one available let me know (wired versions)

 

[Robotstar5]

I fitted a wired system for a mate in the 80's, he wanted a PA (personal attack) button next to the bed to make his wife feel safe when his job took him away overnight, whenever he worked away his wife went and stayed at her mums

 

[brightspark]

I fitted a wired system for a mate in the 80's, he wanted a PA (personal attack) button next to the bed to make his wife feel safe when his job took him away overnight, whenever he worked away his wife went and stayed at her mums

my cousin wired a panic attack button next to the bed in case she got attacked we always said it was for the intruder to use and escape from her

 

[JOEPRO]

The part arm function is probably more useful than any panic alarm.

I think - but need to see when programming it that my Texecom system should have more than one part arm setup.

So I hope to have:

A: Garages part arm
B: Garages and downstairs part arm

Having the Garages part armed sure would let me sleep alot better anyway! They are secure but I guess all this is just about peace of mind after all.

 

[addjunkie]

The part arm function is probably more useful than any panic alarm.

I think - but need to see when programming it that my Texecom system should have more than one part arm setup.

So I hope to have:

A: Garages part arm
B: Garages and downstairs part arm

Having the Garages part armed sure would let me sleep alot better anyway! They are secure but I guess all this is just about peace of mind after all.

Your part arm options will all be dependant on how your zones are wired. If starting from scratch the easiest way is to run a separate cable from each device back to the panel, and make up-your zones there. Far easier to fault find to if you have issues later too.

A big internal sounder in the shed or garage is a good idea too…if anyone gets in the louder it is the more worried they are supposed to be.

 

[JOEPRO]

Your part arm options will all be dependant on how your zones are wired. If starting from scratch the easiest way is to run a separate cable from each device back to the panel, and make up-your zones there. Far easier to fault find to if you have issues later too.

A big internal sounder in the shed or garage is a good idea too…if anyone gets in the louder it is the more worried they are supposed to be.

Thanks for this- I have 8 zones available on my panel:



My house had 6 PIR sensors so those are there taking up 6 slots. Then one garage in Z7 and the other garage in Z8. (1x PIR per garage)

So each PIR has its own cable and own zone termination on the board if that is what you mean yeah?

 

[addjunkie]

Thanks for this- I have 8 zones available on my panel:

View attachment 455327

My house had 6 PIR sensors so those are there taking up 6 slots. Then one garage in Z7 and the other garage in Z8. (1x PIR per garage)

So each PIR has its own cable and own zone termination on the board if that is what you mean yeah?

Yes thats what I mean…many alarms are wired by running from sensor to sensor, reducing your zoning options along with the amount of cable used. Is your EE zone also pir?