Hi Ive got an old kawasaki bike frame to repaint. Now I wanted an advise on my plan of action. My original plan was to sand blast it and then use epoxy primer follow by base coat and clear coat. All of it 2K paints but after reading some of the threads I released I dont have PPE for 2K paint. Am I going to do decent job with 1K paint? Moat of the paint seems to be 2K. Any thoughts and help will be greatful.
- Thread starter luccass_j
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lazybones51
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Have you considered getting it powder coated?
brightspark
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i wouldnt get a frame or much else powder coated when it cracks rust gets underneath and travels along
sandblasted epoxy primed and 2 k topcopat and its bomb proof sprayed my frame 30 years ago and still good
lazybones51
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I paid £250 earlier this year to have the following blasted, and powder coated. That included them doing an initial layer of Zinc primer powder coat, which is there to stop corrosion.
- Frame
- Swingarm
- Triple Clamps
- Pair of wheels
- Fork Lowers
- various small brackets.
I'd imagine a frame on it's own might set you back ~£120
ajlelectronics
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The first thing to know is that air fed (positive pressure) is only required for Isocyanate hardener solid colour paints and lacquers. 2k merely refers to Zwei Komponent and tells you nothing of the formula. Epoxy primers do not contain Isocycanates, although you MUST check the safety and data sheets first, of ANY paint you intend to use. Basecoats likewise are air dying and contain no Isocyanates.
I would recommend sticking with your plan, but using a high quality basecoat and then 1K lacquer for finishing. The other option is to see if you can get a bodyshop to do the colour coats after you prep. it. You WILL need to offer them a non warranty agreement, otherwise they are likely to turn it down flat. 1k lacquer will do the job and last reasonably well. The whole finished job could be flatted back in the future and lacquered in a good 2k, should the opportunity present itself.
ajlelectronics
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Powder coat is great until it chips. Then the corrosion starts underneath and spreads like a cancer. My personal feeling is that powder coating is bad news on vehicles.
marlinspike
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If it's disassembled, clean, and rust free it might be worth getting a body shop to quote for a 2k respray. A lot of the cost of bodywork is in the prep. Even doing it yourself, paint isn't cheap, but if it's just epoxy primer and a run of the mill 2k colour for a top coat a body shop might be cheaper than you think.
rtcosic
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Please don't.
keithski122
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Everytime I've used 1k clear after a short while its had a crazed look to it and gone yellow.
qwakers
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ive just resprayed 2 wheels on my lorry. one was original factory paint from 2008. the other i had 1k primed, painted and lacquered.
the 1k paint had done the opposite of protect it. the wheel was far rustier than the original wheel i hadn't painted. conversely, the two front wheels on the lorry had been painted in 2k primer, 1k solvent basecoat and 2k iso clear. these where done only a few months after the 1k ones and are still perfect.
epoxy primer, nisocoat2 topcoat.
that is all i would use if i where you.
the 1k paint had done the opposite of protect it. the wheel was far rustier than the original wheel i hadn't painted. conversely, the two front wheels on the lorry had been painted in 2k primer, 1k solvent basecoat and 2k iso clear. these where done only a few months after the 1k ones and are still perfect.
epoxy primer, nisocoat2 topcoat.
that is all i would use if i where you.
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I must use a different powder coater to those that say don't do it, I've had half a dozen bike frames powder coated with no problems, one was a daily rider for 6 or 7 years with no issues.
Screwdriver
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Powder coating is a very good way to protect a bike frame, yes it has issues like any other coating. Problem is it's too thick for an authentic restoration (if that's what you're doing). You lose all the detail for the notoriously poor Jap welding back in the day. I have restored a fair few RD350's in my time and found bits of mig wire still stuck in the welds.
They should be preserved for posterity!
While I don't have much data on longevity, I have successfully finished off various frames with a rattlecan which can be made to look really surprisingly decent if you take the time. Mid you, I used to get them in, restore them and they'd be out the door soon as the paint dried! Never had any complaints.
Well, I say "never"....
They should be preserved for posterity!
While I don't have much data on longevity, I have successfully finished off various frames with a rattlecan which can be made to look really surprisingly decent if you take the time. Mid you, I used to get them in, restore them and they'd be out the door soon as the paint dried! Never had any complaints.
Well, I say "never"....
XJ 650!
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Identical to my seca, except for the exhaust.
