Stuff you have made today

[Duisky]

Last little car I’m making for the foreseeable; one for myself!

I had made a little replica of a Model T back in 2011 when I was 17 (in image 5 below), as a first independent foray into metalworking. It was fine at the time, but was never truly content with it. I’ve always hankered to make a more comprehensive version, but the time has never been ‘right’.

As a bit of background, the Model T below was subjected to a 6 weeks recommissioning from a sound but rough state to how it presents today; certainly not the black it would’ve left the factory in! We’re surprised it has lasted as well as it has given its been out in all conditions. To expedite things, rather than paint, the body was covered with Everflex vinyl (effectively making it fabric bodied) hence the Matt finish. To be different, the seats were a contrasting green Harris Tweed, with the wings painted to match the hood. I have replicated these finishes on the little car, however the green I used on the wings is certainly not the right shade; I’ll get them rectified when the big cars wings are eventually repainted.

Originally I was going to make the ‘Wee T’s’ body from fibireglass, however it ended up being too big.. I eventually made it from sheet steel, along with the wings, bonnet, and radiator cowling. The separate chassis is made from lightweight tubing, and the front axle shaped and welded into a section to match that of the main car. Propulsion is provided by a mobility scooter transaxle and motor controller, and will punt me around, albeit rather slowly. Wheels were pram wheels sourced from eBay. I did have intentions to keep the rim and weld up some ‘spokes’ from tubing, but the wires will be sufficient..

 

[Hood]

A couple more etchings.

 

[ajlelectronics]

It’s been put to bed. This is my last post. That American twunt and his minions with lots to say but nothing constructive to offer this forum can have free rein. This forum no longer brings joy like it used to. I have asked the mods privately to close my account.

That would be tragic when the ignore function works so well. So many of us are in awe of what you do and appreciate your postings.

I felt the same as you do at one time, so I stayed away for six months. Then I realised that the detractors were the ones with the problem, so I just grew my block list to save being aggravated. Some of the ones in the blocklist may surprise others, but it saves my fuse from being lit.

 

[roofman]

It’s been put to bed. This is my last post. That American twunt and his minions with lots to say but nothing constructive to offer this forum can have free rein. This forum no longer brings joy like it used to. I have asked the mods privately to close my account.

Surprised its rattled you so much mate, you seem like a lad of sterner DNA than that Well i can say that i enjoy your input and will be sorry to see you go.

 

[Hood]

Wasn't happy with the interceptor slate really.
This one.

So did a bit more doctoring of the image and much happier now.

 

[MattF]

Definitely far more detail in the latter.

 

[Hood]

Definitely far more detail in the latter.

Yes, the white of the waves and sea etc was too intense and basically obliterated everything.

 

[Dcal]

Today I just made a bulb light, but in reality I made a mountain out of a mole hill.

The base of the machine lamp that came with my Clarkson Grinder was broken so I fixed that.

Stuff you have fixed today

I suppose MOT testers see a fair few Golfs - the rear discs on my Lancia should have shields - mine looked okay under 20 yrs of muck and brake dust, so I had them blasted and powdercoated in with a load of other stuff . . . they came back lovely and black . . . and lacey . . . they would have...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

That was only 4 months ago. You don't want to rush these things.
The inside of the shade was rough so I blasted and painted that a couple of months ago, it's still in primer but you know, these things take time.

Any normal person would just put a bulb in it but I have this G53 bulb kicking about looking for a home so I thought I'd try that and it was a nice fit.

But how to make it fit?

Should I look for a lamp holder?
Don't be silly that would be far too sensible.

Instead I started with some scaffold tube.
Cut it down put in in the lathe to square it off.
Then machine it down so it fits the bulb.


Drill a couple of holes and weld in an off cut of 5mm welding rod for retaining pins.

Cut the pins down then put it back in the lathe and machine the pins to size.
Then machine the holder to size, turn off the galv coating and fiddle about until the bulb fits.

Then weld a washer to the other end to give something to mount the holder to the shade.
Drill and tap 4ba to suit the original screws.
Then cut out sections to allow room for the cable.

Then temporarily put it together to see if it works.
Electrical connections are a couple of spade terminals but I don't think that's the final solution.
Anyway, it works

It still needs a grommet, painted, proper electrical connections, wiring and I have a shaver 240 to 240 transformer that might fit inside the base and possibly make it safer.
It might be all finished in another 4 months, but don't hold your breath.

What a faff, I should have just put a normal bulb in it.

 

[RichardM]

Yesterday I made this, what is that for I hear you ask!

It's a holder I can put it in this with a CCMT insert:

Which then allows me to machine this in stainless:

and produce this.

 

[northwest]

Made a couple things today, Made a couple of pulleys for a project that has been a bit "ongoing" for twelve months or more, hopefully it will be done on Thursday:




Form tool made short work of the grooves and it is now set up ready to finish in the morning, I also spent a little while destroying a reamer (form tool really) First time this has happened to me and also the first time I have used tooling from this manufacurer, if this is not sorted it will be the last too!



It shattered (with quite a bang) just as I was finishing, always the way though isn't it.

 

[sako243]

The start of Land Rover special tool who bloody cares at this point. Some 20mm plate being cut down on the bandsaw. Didn't have quite the height (350x20mm) to cut it vertically so rather than cut flat I slanted it on some 4" bar. 20mm is probably overkill but the 10mm I had in stock wasn't wide enough.

First couple of holes drilled

Basically this going to be bolted to the back of the hub so that I can put my hydraulic puller in to push out the hub from the bearing. Threaded bar is M16, sorry didn't have a mug for scale so battery terminal was nearest thing to hand.

Those two threaded bars will go through the brake caliper holes and then another piece will be made to clamp onto one of the control arm holes like the official JLR tool.

I need to replace the bent dust shield hence this faff, it's an awkward shape to support in my press setup hence using the puller as JLR workshop manual recommends.

This is the hub and the socket sat in the middle is what needs to be pushed out.

 

[m_c]

Made a couple things today, Made a couple of pulleys for a project that has been a bit "ongoing" for twelve months or more, hopefully it will be done on Thursday:

View attachment 428943
View attachment 428944

Form tool made short work of the grooves and it is now set up ready to finish in the morning, I also spent a little while destroying a reamer (form tool really) First time this has happened to me and also the first time I have used tooling from this manufacurer, if this is not sorted it will be the last too!


View attachment 428941
It shattered (with quite a bang) just as I was finishing, always the way though isn't it.

Clumsy B******!

Seriously though, is that a guide on the end of the tool?
Has it jammed in the bore?

 

[Kram]

Plan was to make some dogs for the 2511tesc. Copying the 020T but the mounting holes are closer. Decided to use plasma, first did a quick test...

It will need some practise. Cut oversize to finish with grinder.. I should have just do enwhole thing with grinder.

Quite happy with that as I have only done about a minute of actual cutting.

Tried 6mm aluminium, then 1/2", may be a bit thick for it.

Blew the fuse and then tripped the MCB, I think this may have blown it

The blue light comes on anytime I press trigger. Any ideas to fix it? The tip is cleaned.

 

[northwest]

Clumsy B******!

Seriously though, is that a guide on the end of the tool?
Has it jammed in the bore?

It is indeed sir, not to my knowledge, it looks like I have "got away" with the barrel as I still need to take a finishing pass. I am going to stick my hand up and say this: It was the first time I have ever used a High Carbon Steel Chambering reamer and it could quite well be my lack of experience and too slow a speed because I usually use HSS cutters at forty to fifty RPM and I don't think Carbon Steel cutters like this. I am going to have to get the books out and ask some questions.

 

[Brad93]

It is indeed sir, not to my knowledge, it looks like I have "got away" with the barrel as I still need to take a finishing pass. I am going to stick my hand up and say this: It was the first time I have ever used a High Carbon Steel Chambering reamer and it could quite well be my lack of experience and too slow a speed because I usually use HSS cutters at forty to fifty RPM and I don't think Carbon Steel cutters like this. I am going to have to get the books out and ask some questions.

Carbon steel not HSS.

What's the reasoning behind that?

I know carbon steel is meant to be mega sharp but doesn't it loose its edge fairly quickly? And hence that's why all the cheap tap and die sets are carbon?

 

[Dr.Al]

Carbon steel not HSS.

What's the reasoning behind that?

I know carbon steel is meant to be mega sharp but doesn't it loose its edge fairly quickly? And hence that's why all the cheap tap and die sets are carbon?

My understanding is that carbon steel can be made harder and possibly sharper than HSS. The disadvantage is that it can't cope with much heat, so you have to cut slowly to keep it cool. Good quality ground-to-shape carbon hand taps & dies are likely to work better than good quality HSS (you never run a hand tap at speeds that would be a problem), but cheap ones tend to be turned rather than ground-to-shape and hence the form and consistency of the cutting edge isn't as good (no doubt really cheap ones probably haven't been heat treated very well either). Economies of scale probably mean that most ground-to-shape taps & dies are HSS but it's the ground-to-shape bit that makes them better, not the material.

 

[KemppiFrog]

Always thought that carbon steel was a cheap, and fragile, substitute for decent tool steel.

 

[roblane65]

Last little car I’m making for the foreseeable; one for myself!

I had made a little replica of a Model T back in 2011 when I was 17 (in image 5 below), as a first independent foray into metalworking. It was fine at the time, but was never truly content with it. I’ve always hankered to make a more comprehensive version, but the time has never been ‘right’.

As a bit of background, the Model T below was subjected to a 6 weeks recommissioning from a sound but rough state to how it presents today; certainly not the black it would’ve left the factory in! We’re surprised it has lasted as well as it has given its been out in all conditions. To expedite things, rather than paint, the body was covered with Everflex vinyl (effectively making it fabric bodied) hence the Matt finish. To be different, the seats were a contrasting green Harris Tweed, with the wings painted to match the hood. I have replicated these finishes on the little car, however the green I used on the wings is certainly not the right shade; I’ll get them rectified when the big cars wings are eventually repainted.

Originally I was going to make the ‘Wee T’s’ body from fibireglass, however it ended up being too big.. I eventually made it from sheet steel, along with the wings, bonnet, and radiator cowling. The separate chassis is made from lightweight tubing, and the front axle shaped and welded into a section to match that of the main car. Propulsion is provided by a mobility scooter transaxle and motor controller, and will punt me around, albeit rather slowly. Wheels were pram wheels sourced from eBay. I did have intentions to keep the rim and weld up some ‘spokes’ from tubing, but the wires will be sufficient..


View attachment 428505
View attachment 428491View attachment 428492View attachment 428495View attachment 428499

Nice , that dog looks very pleased with itself ........

 

[northwest]

carbon steel can be made harder and possibly sharper than HSS

It certainly can.

Always thought that carbon steel was a cheap, and fragile, substitute for decent tool steel.

Not really, the Carbon steel tool is about £14 cheaper than the HSS one so £85 instead of £100 so no real saving at all and I actually prefer Carbon Steel taps in Stainless over HSS.

The first bit is the clue, you aren't going to get as many chambers cut with Carbon as opposed to HSS but the thinking is that they are that much more precise. So I decided to try one on a 6.5 Creedmoor build. The manufacturer has agreed to replace the tool.

 

[Duisky]

Nice , that dog looks very pleased with itself ........

Thanks. She’s normally a little firework so getting her to sit like that is an achievement in itself!