Man-cave diesel heater 12V supply......

[doubleboost]

Some diesel and away it went cost warm wearing a Tee shirt.
I work in the cold all day so need warmth at home

 

[JOEPRO]

They don't really heat much do they though? I have one of their false claimed 8kw units (more like 4?) And in my domestic block cavity wall double garage it barely takes the chill off the air. It certainly does not "heat" the garage to any noticable degree unless its been running full tilt for several hours.

 

[voipio]

Is the exhaust venting into the workshop?

 

[fizzy]

They don't really heat much do they though? I have one of their false claimed 8kw units (more like 4?) And in my domestic block cavity wall double garage it barely takes the chill off the air. It certainly does not "heat" the garage to any noticable degree unless its been running full tilt for several hours.

Yes they are 4kw - but remember that is the same as 2x typical fan heaters and a 1/4 the running costs on kero.
And yes they need to run for a good while to get the heat up. Helps to recirculate the warm air - only exhaust to the outside.

 

[fizzy]

Is the exhaust venting into the workshop?

I suspect it is going out under the roller shutter

 

[JOEPRO]

Is the exhaust venting into the workshop?

I suspect it is going out under the roller shutter

Not sure if you mean me but mine has its exhaust cored and piped to outside air.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

They don't really heat much do they though? I have one of their false claimed 8kw units (more like 4?) And in my domestic block cavity wall double garage it barely takes the chill off the air. It certainly does not "heat" the garage to any noticable degree unless its been running full tilt for several hours.

Odd, my pal has one in his single block work garage attached to the house and his heats it up well enough to work in the place. - perhaps a double garage is a bit much for one?

What did you use before these came on the go?

 

[doubleboost]

They don't really heat much do they though? I have one of their false claimed 8kw units (more like 4?) And in my domestic block cavity wall double garage it barely takes the chill off the air. It certainly does not "heat" the garage to any noticable degree unless its been running full tilt for several hours.

In my single garage 30 mins on full and my jumper is off . I set it at 17 deg and it is very good

 

[doubleboost]

Is the exhaust venting into the workshop?

NO hole in roller shutter exhaust pokes out side . I have a carbon monoxide detector in the garage just to be safe .

 

[fizzy]

I still swear by this. I have the Chinese ones as well.
Genuine 4.6kw. Not cheap though.

SRE4600 / 4602 4.6kW Liquid Fuel Heater + FREE FUEL - Liquid Fuel Heaters - Heaters

<ul> <li><strong>4.6kW / 4600W output Liquid Fuel Heater</strong></li> <li><strong>Digital temperature control</strong></li> <li><strong>Virtually odourless operation when powered by Paraffin Extra ROLF</strong></li> <li><strong>Fully automatic output

www.dry-it-out.com

I run mine on kerosene. No fumes in a big room. No good if you are painting or spraying though. Ideal for a draughty old house.

 

[addjunkie]

I still swear by this. I have the Chinese ones as well.
Genuine 4.6kw. Not cheap though.

SRE4600 / 4602 4.6kW Liquid Fuel Heater + FREE FUEL - Liquid Fuel Heaters - Heaters

<ul> <li><strong>4.6kW / 4600W output Liquid Fuel Heater</strong></li> <li><strong>Digital temperature control</strong></li> <li><strong>Virtually odourless operation when powered by Paraffin Extra ROLF</strong></li> <li><strong>Fully automatic output

www.dry-it-out.com

I run mine on kerosene. No fumes in a big room. No good if you are painting or spraying though. Ideal for a draughty old house.

How is the exhaust fumes dealt with with type of heater

 

[fizzy]

How is the exhaust fumes dealt with with type of heater

It is non vented. Very clean burn. Like a gas cooker is non vented.
It is FAR cleaner running than a catalytic calor gas tyoe heater which really makes my eyes water.
Only stinks on startup and shutdown. I whack the thermostat right up to stop it cycling. When room gets too warm I just choose minimum.
Has a 7L tank inside - you can take the tank out to refill whilst running. Made in Japan not China. Very popular in many countries.
Has all sorts of safety features - even an earthquake mode!
I use a CO detector as well just in case.
Had it for about 4 years now. Paid for itself in the first month.
Needs a service once a year which I do myself.

 

[jmp49]

I have one of the ones fizzy linked to, and its very civilized, you plug it in 220v, set a temperature on the lcd display panel and it lights itself automatically and all sorts of modern touches & you can buy the low fume fuel for them everywhere but it gives me headaches after a while using one indoors or in the workshop so I abandoned it to a storage shed a few years back. What drew me to the chinese diesel heaters was that they externally vent, and I don't have headaches running it, although the whole needing a 12v psu etc is a pain. I suppose it depends on how airtight your workspace is.

Slim, experience suggests your fan will stick or make weird noises again now its done it once, at the most annoying moments possible. It might be a idea to investigate getting a replacement fan while you have the luxury of not being in a rush to source one, as having a new spare fan next to it ready will nearly almost guarantee that the fan will never go wrong again.

 

[fizzy]

I have one of the ones fizzy linked to, and its very civilized, you plug it in 220v, set a temperature on the lcd display panel and it lights itself automatically and all sorts of modern touches & you can buy the low fume fuel for them everywhere but it gives me headaches after a while using one indoors or in the workshop so I abandoned it to a storage shed a few years back. What drew me to the chinese diesel heaters was that they externally vent, and I don't have headaches running it, although the whole needing a 12v psu etc is a pain. I suppose it depends on how airtight your workspace is.

Slim, experience suggests your fan will stick or make weird noises again now its done it once, at the most annoying moments possible. It might be a idea to investigate getting a replacement fan while you have the luxury of not being in a rush to source one, as having a new spare fan next to it ready will nearly almost guarantee that the fan will never go wrong again.

I bought a different brand similar style heater and it produced more fumes than mine so I returned it. They aren't all as good! Nobody even notices mine running. Quite a big room and I crack a window open a fraction into the warehouse.

 

[Morris]

They don't really heat much do they though? I have one of their false claimed 8kw units (more like 4?) And in my domestic block cavity wall double garage it barely takes the chill off the air. It certainly does not "heat" the garage to any noticable degree unless its been running full tilt for several hours.

Not my experience at all.
Mines in a large (24 X 13) single garage with an 8 X 6 extension on the side and it gets it nicely warmed up in about 30 minutes except for the really cold days when it takes some time. The garage is detached and single brick with no insulation.

 

[fizzy]

Let’s be honest 4kW+ is exactly the same as that same amount of heat from another source. If fitted properly, with proper and adequate insulation, along with effective draught exclusion, I would expect the space would be heated within a reasonable time period.

On the other side, if heating cold blocks in a leaky (poor insulation, leaking air) garage (uninsulated steel door(s)?) drawing in combustion air from inside and cold (to be warmed) from outside - one cannot expect them to warm the space efficiently.

Burning half a litre (some don’t even deliver the full amount claimed) requires a given volume of air. Drawing in cold air from outside would be horrendously inefficient ax the same amount of warmed air must leak out.

Drawing cold air in from outside not as bad as I thought.
I run 2 of these heaters flat out in winter. One recirculating the warm air. The other is outside ish and has just the one duct going inside for the outlet air. Not as bad as I was expecting. Not much difference in outlet temp.

 

[JOEPRO]

Let’s be honest 4kW+ is exactly the same as that same amount of heat from another source. If fitted properly, with proper and adequate insulation, along with effective draught exclusion, I would expect the space would be heated within a reasonable time period.

On the other side, if heating cold blocks in a leaky (poor insulation, leaking air) garage (uninsulated steel door(s)?) drawing in combustion air from inside and cold (to be warmed) from outside - one cannot expect them to warm the space efficiently.

Burning half a litre (some don’t even deliver the full amount claimed) requires a given volume of air. Drawing in cold air from outside would be horrendously inefficient ax the same amount of warmed air must leak out.

My garage is rendered walls etc and draught proof doors. I use a 2kw electric fan heater at times and feel the heat from it over a couple of hour period.

I have ordered a digital room temperature gauge and humidity. So I'll put that up and see that I'm not hallucinating again.

 

[DickyDoDah]

Drawing cold air in from outside not as bad as I thought.
I run 2 of these heaters flat out in winter. One recirculating the warm air. The other is outside ish and has just the one duct going inside for the outlet air. Not as bad as I was expecting. Not much difference in outlet temp.

You need to draw cold air from outside for the combustion for a couple of reasons. First off cold air has more oxygen so is better for combustion and secondly as the exhaust must be vented outside there is no Net loss of air in the room. If you did draw the combustion air from in the room and exhaust to outside then you would create a small vacuum in the room that would suck air from outside through any gaps in the structure and get draughts.

If you are referring to the heated room air you should only draw that from in the room so that it can be recirculated and the temperature increased. If the air is drawn in from outside it needs more power to raise the temperature so the maximum temperature of the room will never rise above a certain (low) level. If possible the air input for the heater should be taken from the floor level by using a duct of some sort.

As for heat scavenging from the exhaust I extended my exhaust with 22mm copper pipe as it was the cheapest option which was a bit of a surprise. I then attached aluminium plates to it using 22mm copper clips and painted the lot with matt black heatproof paint. Over the 2.5m length I see a temperature drop of over 100 degrees before it exits the building so there must be a reasonable amount of heat given to the room.

I mounted my heater at high level to make this easier and have extended the outlet vents in two directions using plastic drainpipe. I fitted the 2m of heatproof tube that came with the heater before it gets to the plastic and I've only seen a little bit of distortion in the plastic after running the heater at full blast for a few hours for a test. At some point I will add a low level intake to draw the cold air from floor level but that is at the back of a long list of things to do.
My garage is 4.5m X 12m and it can get quite warm in there so I'm reasonably happy with the setup. I'll add a few photo's tomorrow

 

[fizzy]

You need to draw cold air from outside for the combustion for a couple of reasons. First off cold air has more oxygen so is better for combustion and secondly as the exhaust must be vented outside there is no Net loss of air in the room. If you did draw the combustion air from in the room and exhaust to outside then you would create a small vacuum in the room that would suck air from outside through any gaps in the structure and get draughts.

If you are referring to the heated room air you should only draw that from in the room so that it can be recirculated and the temperature increased. If the air is drawn in from outside it needs more power to raise the temperature so the maximum temperature of the room will never rise above a certain (low) level. If possible the air input for the heater should be taken from the floor level by using a duct of some sort.

As for heat scavenging from the exhaust I extended my exhaust with 22mm copper pipe as it was the cheapest option which was a bit of a surprise. I then attached aluminium plates to it using 22mm copper clips and painted the lot with matt black heatproof paint. Over the 2.5m length I see a temperature drop of over 100 degrees before it exits the building so there must be a reasonable amount of heat given to the room.

I mounted my heater at high level to make this easier and have extended the outlet vents in two directions using plastic drainpipe. I fitted the 2m of heatproof tube that came with the heater before it gets to the plastic and I've only seen a little bit of distortion in the plastic after running the heater at full blast for a few hours for a test. At some point I will add a low level intake to draw the cold air from floor level but that is at the back of a long list of things to do.
My garage is 4.5m X 12m and it can get quite warm in there so I'm reasonably happy with the setup. I'll add a few photo's tomorrow

I am aware of all that.
The stand alone heaters come in a housing like a PC case. Not easy to rig up an intake for the main airflow. My other heater definitely recirculates but there isn't a noticeable difference tbh. Logic tells you otherwise but the outlet air is about the same temp on both!

 

[DickyDoDah]

I am aware of all that.
The stand alone heaters come in a housing like a PC case. Not easy to rig up an intake for the main airflow. My other heater definitely recirculates but there isn't a noticeable difference tbh. Logic tells you otherwise but the outlet air is about the same temp on both!

Oh, I thought you were talking about a diesel heater. Another reason for taking the combustion air from outside on them is that it is possible that they backfire or develop a fault and carbon monoxide in the combustion chamber can leak back into the room. The standalone heaters are as you say completely different and from the descriptions are a very much improved version of the old paraffin heaters we had when I was a kid.