Stuff you have fixed today

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

More MIS fun today.
But some one brought custard doughnuts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tidy, but just in need of TLC.

The only power tool was a battery drill and wire brushes.

The magnet is round.
The black packing between the metal is plastic.

Who knew, they didn't!!

Oh well.

A day with out learning is a day wasted.

Brush primer.

Not 100%, but it is a learning curve.

 

[cheb]

More MIS fun today.
But some one brought custard doughnuts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

View attachment 417199

Er, I don't think those are custard doughnuts.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I know electricity is a scary subject for some. I understand that.

This needed to be re-wired and tested.

This is a awkward first repair. But it is simple.

This shows the old school connections.

The chuck needed some heat, oil and force.

It passed the PAT inspection.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

The restoration bug has bitten a MIS member.

So I set a challenge.
No power tools.
No new parts.

A Army entrenching tool

In bits.
Fixings are metric. This gives a hint of it's age. Post 1980 for The British army or post 150 for the Europe forces, The blade pattern gives it away.

A good attack with wire brushes the worse of the rust was gone.

This is a over the counter rust killer.
It does not do what it says on the tin.

To get a good result, wire brush, apply, wire brush, apply, wire brush, drink coffee as it dries.

YAY, found in the recent box of goodies.

It also fits, plus it is very similar to the original design.


Oh we know what army it was from.

Remove the shaft to blade and you get a trench Wacker. There is evidence of the one edge being sharpened.


This was also a hand to hand combat weapon as well as a digging tool.

The nut is plain, but the bolt is a metric Long Lock design, a per the information found on the net.

It was made in Germany, in the GDR.

 

[bricol]

I've still got my Dad's square as well as his yankee ratchet screwdriver and folding 3 ft ruler somewhere in the shed

Aged 6 I was given a new folding 3ft rule (as well as my dad's dad's claw hammer with a new handle). I still have the rule - it just doesn't measure 3ft very accurately 47 yrs later . . . (claw hammer still works well though - was using it last sunday)

 

[ajlelectronics]

I bought a pair of old fog lights for my Saab, only 10€. When I get them I can see they say Bosch Halogen and Made in Sweden. They have no CE mark so they are older than 1984. Made in Sweden, not bad for 10€.

Treated with plastic restorer to the left, just cleaned with soap and water on right.

There's some rust, I put linseed oil on it... I figure that's good enough for now. Possible to do a better job later, separate the glass from the body with a thinner bath.

Plastic restorer on both

Tried applying some yellow headlight film, first time ever so I did a lot of mistakes, apparently you can use heat to make it go easier. Will do that on the next one. I like the yellow shine, will see though how I proceed, good thing is I can just remove it for a clear look.

I am cooking up my own circuit to make the lamps run on different voltages, so I can run the things as front position lights during the day, and when I need the fog lights (was real foggy recently) I can just press the fog-light button and they glow full strength. Also need them to shut off when the low beams are on and fog light switch is not depressed. I'll need three relays to make that logic work.

Arduino PWM is your friend. That way you also have the option to fit LED bulbs if you prefer for lower current.

 

[DennisCA]

I see no benefit in mucking about with arduinos and PWMs. Switched buck / boost converters for car usage have existed since the 1980s that are 90-95% efficient. That's better than most PWM setups can do, and they are made to live inside a cars engine compartment, no need to invent my own solutions that just add complexity.

And absolutely no LEDs in lights not designed for them, that's illegal and for very good reasons too.

e: Sorry if I am coming off a bit gruff but you're like the 10th person who brought up arduino, pwm and led. All things I don't want or need.

 

[bricol]

and they are made to live inside a cars engine compartment, no need to invent my own solutions that just add complexity.

That's my theory - so while a mate of mine is designing/building the bestest possible version . . . I've been driving and enjoying the old fashioned, more original, version for the last 20 yrs

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Er, I don't think those are custard doughnuts.

That would explain the broken teeth.

 

[Guzrik]

Fixed a small (but expensive)piece of wiring harnass for fuel and temperature gauges on my k75.

It was broken where one wire split into two. It was originally crimped and I couldn't solder it so made a small piece 1/8 tube fit, and crimped it back on. Then had to make a tool to disassemble one connector to be able to slide a new piece of shrink sleeve over.

Tool is the piece of allen bolt standing on the hammer.
Forgot to make a finished photo, will add that tommorow.

 

[sardine]

Got this clamp out of a skip, handle snapped completely off, an afternoon of fettling and its back in business.

 

[Guzrik]

My new (to me) impact wrench had a plastic or hard rubber ball as a shut off valve. Today it didnt stop anymore. Made a new pom part (on the left) works very well.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

The fun of restoration of tools has bitten someone at The Shed.

They found this and asked if they could have a go.

Why not.

It had some original paint.
So after a good clean up.

Some one made a silly remark.
How do you find it in the dark?

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This was a pig all the way.

It worked, but as it waited in line. The glass on the meter worked loose.

The meter is outlined in Red. 4 hours to get to it. Fix the glass and put it back together.

Everything was Loctite into place. The fixings were all imperial, plus a good selection of sizes.

Original instructions.

In it's past life. Some one had removed the french polish and applied a water based varnish.
It cloged the sander, dulled the cabinet scraper and was a pain to remove.

Building up the new french polish.

First coat of wax.
12 in total.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This rust lump, in the shape of a Bowman 135 was mine for a good price.

This was the killer. The safety valve was dead.

So drill out the old boss, tin the hole and fit a Mamod safety valve.

This allowed me to steam it up. Good news, no issues.

So we took it to bits.

The steel parts came up well, a few dings to sort out.

The rebuild is on the way.
The brass needed to be hit hard.


I was able to locate a Meths burner.

It needed a cap, so we modified the old dead one.

Plus an oil can.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

The Gun black did not take well.

The fiber washers are not original.

Thee first steam showed that a few issues needed to be addressed.

Level plug new seal was shot.
The gears needed tweaking.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

15kg of rust. But is a nice shape.


I will call a Supplier of ale at my local.

Clean, apply heat and oil and they will be free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Not a blood chance.

Each one is a different thread form, same size, but different.
5 Spanners needed on that side alone.

Made worse, they were not studs or bolts. Threaded rivets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is rust and grease.

Out of the citric acid, plus a random clamp.

They are castings, so the need a good drying out. This puts enough heat in to draw the water out.

This shows the different metals used.

Few more coats of Hot wax and oil needed.

It is still a Bar Steward.

 

[dobbslc]

Nice job!
Hand made threads must mean it's very old?

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Nice job!
Hand made threads must mean it's very old?

Old or a hand made teat peace.

It is solid, and heavy.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

It is still a Bar Steward.

I'd call it an abortion.