Evaporust - first time user / review

[RaceDiagnostics]

That looks like a good result; I do wonder how Evapor-rust would compare in side by side tests. One may be faster, but if time is not too crucial, the end results might be comparable?

Re storage of citric, think you will find that the powder keeps pretty much for ever.

Keep it dry and it lasts indefinitely.

I don't keep the solution as it eventually goes mouldy.

 

[Geoffm]

I have oxalic acid which I tried for rust removal on some tools. Worked ok, if not quickly.

 

[Ross365]

Oxalic is not so good from a health point of view.

 

[Red'n'Black]

Chloride ions are brilliant at initiating corrosion; ask the Scots, who's cars rust like crazy because of all the salt they use in winter. Moreover, when you get chloride on metal surfaces, it is "quite hard" to wash it off. No amount of plain water will do it.

So, if it's still there when you apply whatever paint you use, return of the rust will be very much quicker than if you'd not used it.
If POR do use it, then I suspect they recommend the use of their highly expensive product to de-chloride it afterwards.
I worked in the nuclear industry; we were given special fibre markers with chloride-free solvent in them for use on our kit.

I think some people rate bee's wax on tools.

One of the jobs on my list is to clean up the drum on a cement mixer I rescued from my parents' place, as usual with these things it's caked in concrete.

The outside I can attack with a knotted wire wheel, but for the inside I was going to buy some brick acid, which I think is dilute hydrochloric, and leave it running with that and a handful of gravel inside. But having read that, I might have to have a re-think.

Anybody else tackled one of these? What did you use?

 

[Seadog]

The second that you've emptied it and flushed it out it will flash rust.

 

[ukracer]

Is there a forum consensus where the cheapest evaporust can be purchased.

 

[Sergei Slovenija]

One of the jobs on my list is to clean up the drum on a cement mixer I rescued from my parents' place, as usual with these things it's caked in concrete.

The outside I can attack with a knotted wire wheel, but for the inside I was going to buy some brick acid, which I think is dilute hydrochloric, and leave it running with that and a handful of gravel inside. But having read that, I might have to have a re-think.

Anybody else tackled one of these? What did you use?

To dissolve cement for ceramic tiles, I used formic acid in powder + water. From memory, Italy, Mapei brand

 

[fizzy]

I remember, as a kid, buying something called Rust X I think - back in the late 70s. It was a green jelly - they claimed safe enough to eat. It was amazing on rusted tools. Worked brilliantly. Leave it for a few hours and wash off. Did an amazing job. Wasn't happy when I tried it on my air rifle barrel - removed the blueing completely
Came in a white bottle - anyone remember it? I think it may have been the same sort of stuff as evaporust.

 

[Sergei Slovenija]

Formic acid is a liquid! Do you mean you mixed it with a powder to form a thick slurry?

It was a long time ago. Maybe it was the formate? Now Mapei uses crystals https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfamic_acid

 

[Cobbler]

I remember, as a kid, buying something called Rust X I think - back in the late 70s. It was a green jelly - they claimed safe enough to eat. It was amazing on rusted tools. Worked brilliantly. Leave it for a few hours and wash off. Did an amazing job. Wasn't happy when I tried it on my air rifle barrel - removed the blueing completely
Came in a white bottle - anyone remember it? I think it may have been the same sort of stuff as evaporust.

Sounds similar to Naval Gel & think it was, sold mail order. Brush it on, wash it off & the rust is gone ….. yer right!

 

[Ross365]

I think that Naval gel is based on phosphoric.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

As others have posted...what I really like about citric acid is the safety...can go down the drain.

I also use citric to clean my kettles...couple tea spoons then boil and leave.

 

[fizzy]

Sounds similar to Naval Gel & think it was, sold mail order. Brush it on, wash it off & the rust is gone ….. yer right!

No this stuff really worked brilliantly.

 

[MattF]

Found electrolysis to be so so much better.

That's my favourite method by far. Not a fan of citric at all.

 

[JOEPRO]

This would take 2 minutes with a wire wheel
I don't see the point
Gone off the rust removers. Not good for heavy rust >1mm thick
Found electrolysis to be so so much better.

This took 0 minutes and it is very thorough.

I like trying new methods, each to their own.

I have a nice crusty rear brake caliper to drop into the evaporust next



I've been putting other tools and brackets through this one batch of it. It's now black in colour and still working as it was. But soon I'll have to dispose of that me thinks.

 

[JOEPRO]

It must still be more economic to clean off most of the rust/crud, before using the chemical?

Maybe, but kind of defeats the purpose. I'd like to see how it can clean a really rusty caliper.

 

[mark roberts]

What is a good product for keeping rust off tools etc? I don't mean spraying down with wd40 etc that is not ideal when storing tools in pouches or tool boxes.

Is there wax type product that works well to avoid flash rusting for winter months etc?

I've been using lanoguard on my machines, my workshop is very damp during the winter

 

[Dcal]

This would take 2 minutes with a wire wheel
I don't see the point
Gone off the rust removers. Not good for heavy rust >1mm thick
Found electrolysis to be so so much better.

This is citric acid on really heavy rust on the rear suspension from an Alfa 159.

Before

After a good going over with a neddle gun to remove the scale.
I think the citric acid softens the scale and will make it easier to neddle gun off, but I don't see the point of not taking the worst off before dipping.

Into a bin with about 100l of water and 6kgs of citric acid on Monday night.

Took it out this morning (3.5 days later) and gave the bits a quick power wash.

There's an aluminium bush in the arm so I don't fancy dipping that, but I will blast it and let the whole arm ginger up to see if there's any differences.
I assume the citric acid will be better at removing salts from the rust pits, but we will see.

All in all very impressive, if a bit slow, but I wasn't waiting on it.
I used citric on this because there are parts that are impossible to blast and the acid seems to work everywhere.

Electrolysis won't work inside closed section although I've had good results on open panels.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I remember, as a kid, buying something called Rust X I think - back in the late 70s. It was a green jelly - they claimed safe enough to eat. It was amazing on rusted tools. Worked brilliantly. Leave it for a few hours and wash off. Did an amazing job. Wasn't happy when I tried it on my air rifle barrel - removed the blueing completely
Came in a white bottle - anyone remember it? I think it may have been the same sort of stuff as evaporust.

I remember the name, but never had experience of it - I was too young.

 

[fizzy]

I remember the name, but never had experience of it - I was too young.

I am younger than you - but I couldn't resist meddling