Old engine rebore and skim ?

[W.olly]

Thanks chaps got a few to get in touch with there. should find somebody.

I've had a few things done at Quasar Engineering in Stockport, just near Portwood roundabout (M60 J27) on Mersey St. Quite a old school place, no website so you'll need to ring them, but I've always found them decent.
Where are you getting pistons from if you're doing a rebore?

I have a set of +20 pistons already.

To them its just another Volvo engine block, they wouldn't know or care what was bolted onto it to marinise it.

Bob

It kames me wonder then if these machine shops actually look at specs of the engines before reboring. some can only be bored so much. need to look at specs of the engine by name and codes to check them. tis is it to em, folk who just bore out wat ever with out even looking at specs.

 

[winchman]

Two in the St.Helens area never heard any bad about either, both been around a very long time

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[8ob]

It kames me wonder then if these machine shops actually look at specs of the engines before reboring. some can only be bored so much. need to look at specs of the engine by name and codes to check them. tis is it to em, folk who just bore out wat ever with out even looking at specs.

Most are lazy and don't care, they set the cutter to size and off they go. On a bigger bore you can easily rub quarter of a thou off the cutter per bore which equates to half a thou, four pots later the last bore is two thou smaller than the first. Get an eight cylinder engine and it can end up four thousandths under size on the last cut. Big block yank engines typically need five thou piston clearance not one thou Also getting half a thou of taper per bore like this, they then hone it and all looks pretty, the cutter should be reset or at least checked on every bore. I have witnessed this on more than one occasion which is why I ended up buying my own boring bar and delapena hone. Sounds like small numbers but its enough to cause a seizure or picking up/scuffing of a piston, the half a thou bore taper can be honed out but again they dont bother.There were only three engineering shops locally that did this sort of work and I wouldn't let any of them loose with a lawnmower engine, same with the crank grinding.If they are not working with competition engines give them a miss.

Dont buy a bore mic

Bob

 

[northwest]

I had many an engine re-bored at Teesside Motor Factors back in the day, crank grinds head refurbs new guides, the whole nine yards. The place is now a car park. Not the demand apparently.

 

[Neilj]

I have a set of +20 pistons already.

Wherever you take the block, give them your pistons as well so they can get the skirt clearance spot on rather than going off nominal dimensions

 

[W.olly]

Wherever you take the block, give them your pistons as well so they can get the skirt clearance spot on rather than going off nominal dimensions

Exactly what I will be doing

 

[hermetic]

+1 for Park Engineering, been using them for years! Excellent work!
Phil

 

[W.olly]

I've had a few things done at Quasar Engineering in Stockport, just near Portwood roundabout (M60 J27) on Mersey St. Quite a old school place, no website so you'll need to ring them, but I've always found them decent.
Where are you getting pistons from if you're doing a rebore

Sorted. Choosing Quasar for the job. Not to far middle price range and sounded like he knew what he was doing. Done for 240.

For other if need to know prices varied from £200 to £380. 4cyl bored honed ans skimmed.

Thanka guys

 

[Neilj]

Sorted. Choosing Quasar for the job.

Ask for a tour round the shop, they're usually ok with that if they're not too busy. Only a small place but they usually have some interesting stuff in for work.

 

[Keith 66]

No point having a head skimmed if the block is not flat in the first place, i fitted a 1098 moggy engine in my truck that had been "rebuilt" by a local firm that used to be regarded as reputable. Every 4 - 5 months it would blow its head gasket always between no 3 & 4 cylinders, turned out the block was higher each side all the way along but worst at that point. You did not need any measuring device just a steel rule & a torch behind it to see the effect. I ended up scrapping that lump it was so bad.

 

[W.olly]

Ridiculous, when a straight edge and some feeler gauges will check before likely spending out unnecessarily. Does the block actually need facing? Another straight edge job to check, just like the head?

what is Ridiculous ?

 

[dobbslc]

Anything anyone else says usually...

 

[bricol]

what is Ridiculous ?

I think unless you've checked it, assuming the block needs work.

Only block I need to work on was a Rover K-series to get the deck height below liner height - liners being lower or at same height as the deck being a big cause of K-series head gasket issues.

And the only heads I've needed machining have been aluminium - anything cast iron has always been fine.

 

[minimutly]

I think unless you've checked it, assuming the block needs work.

Only block I need to work on was a Rover K-series to get the deck height below liner height - liners being lower or at same height as the deck being a big cause of K-series head gasket issues.

And the only heads I've needed machining have been aluminium - anything cast iron has always been fine.

Shaving 2 or three thou off any block in one go takes a bit of patience setting up, but I have done it, and yes, on k series too.

 

[W.olly]

I think unless you've checked it, assuming the block needs work.

Only block I need to work on was a Rover K-series to get the deck height below liner height - liners being lower or at same height as the deck being a big cause of K-series head gasket issues.

And the only heads I've needed machining have been aluminium - anything cast iron has always been fine.

your losing me know with this. who is assuming what ? i have a block that needs reboring and skimming. thats all.