Alu TIG settings for dummies

[Richard.]

Is that on a standard collet body Richard? I use a gas lense as a lot of the stuff I'm welding is awkward so I find it helps gas coverage.

Yeah it was a 9/20 gas lens mostly
Always water cooled
Just 1 set up that practically covered everything. I don’t see the point in complicating things further messing about with different sizes.
In most instances I rarely used anything but a 1.6 tungsten either. Had the balance so well tuned in that it seemed to remain quite stable for 90% of the gages and currents I was welding at.

Alot of people tend to get so concerned about tiny little things assuming it’s the answer to all their problems. Lanth tungstens causing this and size 6 cup causing that.
It’s rubbish….. just put a torch together with decent quality components and weld.

Of course everything has got be right especially when it comes down to both cleanliness of the material/filler and quality of the argon shield but there’s a lot of stuff that doesn’t need quite that attention like how long my back cap is or should I really be using a red tungsten on AC.

 

[zeppelin builder]

Yeah it was a 9/20 gas lens mostly
Always water cooled
Just 1 set up that practically covered everything. I don’t see the point in complicating things further messing about with different sizes.
In most instances I rarely used anything but a 1.6 tungsten either. Had the balance so well tuned in that it seemed to remain quite stable for 90% of the gages and currents I was welding at.

Alot of people tend to get so concerned about tiny little things assuming it’s the answer to all their problems. Lanth tungstens causing this and size 6 cup causing that.
It’s rubbish….. just put a torch together with decent quality components and weld.

Of course everything has got be right especially when it comes down to both cleanliness of the material/filler and quality of the argon shield but there’s a lot of stuff that doesn’t need quite that attention like how long my back cap is or should I really be using a red tungsten on AC.

i worked in an exotic metals fab shop and they used to pmi check the wire brushes turned out half werent stainless

 

[zeppelin builder]

I've watched quite a few of this guys tutorials and find him really helpful BUT unfortunately he has yet to explain the 'head nod' to lower the helmet.

the head nod is known exclusively
by old gits like myself you have to be very precise when lighting up a 5mm or your in for a sleepless night with arc eye . various scenarios could happen if you tightened the tension up too much the helmet would fall off your head espescialy with a sweat laden cromer or the tensioner knob would fall off and you kept going with the helmet against your nose to finish the rod ,i used to drill and lockwire them .
still prefer a simple helmet the hi tech stuff is very bulky and heavy
i have various speedglas , kempi
ones but an old battered fibremetal
pipeliner still feels right to me

 

[redlig]

the head nod is known exclusively
by old gits like myself you have to be very precise when lighting up a 5mm or your in for a sleepless night with arc eye . various scenarios could happen if you tightened the tension up too much the helmet would fall off your head espescialy with a sweat laden cromer or the tensioner knob would fall off and you kept going with the helmet against your nose to finish the rod ,i used to drill and lockwire them .
still prefer a simple helmet the hi tech stuff is very bulky and heavy
i have various speedglas , kempi
ones but an old battered fibremetal
pipeliner still feels right to me

Thanks for that but it was supposed to be a joke.

 

[JOEPRO]

Sorry for very long delay on getting back to this thread! My work has been crazy etc etc and the short version is that I ended up swapping out / upgrading my AC DC Tig from Draper to SIP.

I just set it to AC and didn't mess with any settings yet and straight away was able to see the weld pool and run some pretty cr+p beads but they are my very first so there you go!





This TIG I bought used and broken. Then repaired it myself after a couple months of trying to get the parts but got there in the end. It did not come with a foot pedal. So now that I fixed the welder and can finally melt aluminium I will buy the foot pedal for it.

Question - is my gas flow a little high? What flow do seasoned members use for alu welding please? Or is it a case I can dial it back until I see something go bad? Like try 8 and see if anything changes I guess?



Anyway this feels like a result at long last.

Also - I have left my earth clamp on the + terminal. I read the PDF manual for this welder and that's all it says but doesn't mention much about AC set up. Presume if it mattered the manual would have mentioned it.

 

[addjunkie]

If your leads were wrong youd be melting tungstens…..that looks like decent progress.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Yes gas too high. 8lpm would be plenty ime

 

[Cheesie]

Gas flow will depend on the size of your ceramic, I tend to go 1 litre hight the the cup number

 

[Dutch Welder]

That control layout looks a lot like older Everlast/RTech models.
Maybe you can find something at their websites

Take a picture from the front and I'll be able to explain what's what.

 

[Chrispduck]

Hi all can anyone help with this setting I'm welding up a cracked alloy wheel I can't seem to get any structure it just melts flat I've no manual it's a saf tigmate 270 thanks in advance

 

[Chrispduck]

Sorry section 4

 

[Dutch Welder]

How does the puddle look??
Like specks floating in it?
If it has specks floating in it dial more to the left (stripping adjustment)

However

How does your tungsten look??
Balled all to hell or maintaining a nice tip??
If balled to hell adjust to (penetration adjustment)

If you have balling and specks then go up in tungsten diameter and add more stripping.

You could also do a spot test

Take a piece of stainless,. clean it with acetone, ideally thcik enough to prevent burn through.
Machine on DC
Postflow 10 to 20 seconds
Adjust tungsdten stick out so you can prop the cup
Start an arc, and create a puddle about 5 mm diameter.
Terminate the arc, but keep the cup propped, and wait for the preflow to stop.
The puddle should be silver, if not you have gas shielding issues (leak/consumables worn/orings split etc etc)

 

[Chrispduck]

Thanks very much

 

[Chrispduck]

How does that look guys been practising for a couple of days I wont show you the edges yet

 

[addjunkie]

How does that look guys been practising for a couple of days I wont show you the edges yet

View attachment 427644

Seen and done far worse!