Mercedes S600 V12TT Resurrection

[JOEPRO]

Engine in all its, er glory. Needs a clean and tidy up but I had done alot of maintenance a couple years back.



Can't fit your hand anywhere. Really easy to work on



Cam cover gaskets were done etc. It's got 7 or 8 radiators, air to water intercoolers etc. And hydraulic suspension. So lots going on anywhere you look but this car had alot of the hydraulic system and hoses renewed at the dealer just a few months before I bought it. Maintenance wise for the miles on it (140k) it is in very rude health

 

[JOEPRO]

That would make a great track car! Fancy meeting up with me at Kirkiston for a few laps!

I've never tried a track day before! What car(s) do you normally bring? Is it timed laps you do yeah? Good straights on it as this car is long and heavy too!

 

[Turbo]

I've never tried a track day before! What car(s) do you normally bring? Is it timed laps you do yeah? Good straights on it as this car is long and heavy too!

Trackskills days are the best organised & normally they run 15 minute sessions at a time over around 6 hours so you can get plenty of track time. They try to send out groups with similar track experience & car performance. If you are constantly catching cars they will swap you to a 'faster' group. There is no timing unless you do it yourself.

Not done any for a few years but you get a wide variety of cars. Anything from a Fiesta to a Porsche plus there is normally a few motorsport cars there to do some testing.

Its a hard track on brakes, I've seen high performance cars like Ferraris only getting 3 laps until their brakes are cooked, your Merc should be ok in that department!

I used to use my road car, a Legacy Turbo, but more recently I use my 205MI16 track car.

 

[JOEPRO]

Great way to spend a day off work



As anyone who has repaired rust on cars before will know what you see is usually the tip of the iceberg. So in this case there is a second repair section needs made for the floorpan behind. But the jacking point structure above is all solid which is better than my last w220 resto. Example:

 

[tom2207]

Great way to spend a day off work

View attachment 393285View attachment 393286

As anyone who has repaired rust on cars before will know what you see is usually the tip of the iceberg. So in this case there is a second repair section needs made for the floorpan behind. But the jacking point structure above is all solid which is better than my last w220 resto. Example:

View attachment 393287

good start ,,, and its sunny ,,, what part of NI are you in .

 

[JOEPRO]

good start ,,, and its sunny ,,, what part of NI are you in .

I am in Co Tyrone - great sunny weather today!

This was all the rust cut out on this front area ready for the fibreglass repairs. I got a kit from Halfords with the matting it will be proper structural job and MOT man won't see it anyway

 

[Dcal]

Fibre glass repair?

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Yes it looks good compared to your w220 and my R107 one, it stopped a bit short of the sill.

 

[tom2207]

Fibre glass repair?

I thought this was a welding forum ,,, not wadding .

 

[JOEPRO]

I thought this was a welding forum ,,, not wadding .

Alright then I'll weld er up

New Centre peice welded in



Template made - cereal boxes are the best!



Degrease and copper weld through primer



Welded up. I will dress the welds back in the morning



I use thick hot dip galvanised sheet metal for these types of repairs. Slightly thicker than the original metal.

This is rock solid now. Need to make the third floor section in the morning and this worst jack point is stronger than it left the factory with.

 

[tom2207]

Alright then I'll weld er up

New Centre peice welded in

View attachment 393326

Template made - cereal boxes are the best!

View attachment 393327

Degrease and copper weld through primer

View attachment 393328

Welded up. I will dress the welds back in the morning

View attachment 393329

I use thick hot dip galvanised sheet metal for these types of repairs. Slightly thicker than the original metal.

This is rock solid now. Need to make the third floor section in the morning and this worst jack point is stronger than it left the factory with.

And deep down dont you just feel better for it ,,, lol

I was only messing ,,, but get some ACF50 into that ,,, [ and Im not messing }

 

[JOEPRO]

And deep down dont you just feel better for it ,,, lol

I was only messing ,,, but get some ACF50 into that ,,, [ and Im not messing }

Yes I will spray in a warm anti corrosion wax into these areas when done.

 

[JOEPRO]

I got to use my 200L SIP compressor for the first time today. The larger tank definitely makes a difference.

I also used an air chisel and needle descaler which I haven't used before on rust repairs. They worked fantastic really fast to remove the heavy corrosion and very easy and fast to split the seams.

 

[tom2207]

Yes I will spray in a warm anti corrosion wax into these areas when done.

oh dear ,,,,, lol

go read about ACF50 ,, and you may never spray wax again ,,, Ive not used wax in ten years , and give warranty on land rover patches , and its all down to the wonderful smell of ACF50 .

 

[JOEPRO]

oh dear ,,,,, lol

go read about ACF50 ,, and you may never spray wax again ,,, Ive not used wax in ten years , and give warranty on land rover patches , and its all down to the wonderful smell of ACF50 .

Lots of high quality cavity waxes out there.

But curious.

Do you buy the aerosol cans of this stuff then use the straw to spray in? Can you get a longer lance for it?

How thick is it? Is it like WD40 or engine oil for example.

The rest of the cills inside have factory wax and are clean and rust free. It's really only treating the back of these new welds to be safe.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I think that fibreglass comment was just a wind up.

 

[JOEPRO]

I think that fibreglass comment was just a wind up.

Sorry it was too temping to mention fibreglass on a welding forum!

It has no business anywhere near a car.

But as luck has it any "repairs" on cars I buy have a good chance some ******* has used it. Then the whole thing unravels far worse than it would have been to begin with.

 

[tom2207]

I think that fibreglass comment was just a wind up.

it was just a tease ,,,

 

[tom2207]

Lots of high quality cavity waxes out there.

But curious.

Do you buy the aerosol cans of this stuff then use the straw to spray in? Can you get a longer lance for it?

How thick is it? Is it like WD40 or engine oil for example.

The rest of the cills inside have factory wax and are clean and rust free. It's really only treating the back of these new welds to be safe.

as many here know I swear by the stuff ,,, it has its downsides too , but hasnt everything ,, its very thin and you just mist it on and thats plenty , i use a dpf cleaner gun that mists out just a hair spray sort of mist ,,, do some reading and see ,, the main reason I use it on repairs especially in LR is that it wont catch fire , so if your back again close cutting and welding theres no fire risk , I find it kills existing rust and the sand / mud inside landrover chassis seems to soak it up and hold it there like a sponge ,,, easy clean up and a nice smell ,,, its expensive at about a hundred quid a gallon , but you dont use much ,,, a liter will easily do all of a range rover , on things like discovery sills i leave the holes i use to put it in and put in a rubber grommet ,,, then give them another go every couple of years ,,, cheaper that than another weld repair .

 

[JOEPRO]

The same jacking point was much worse on my S430. It needed a donor cill which in turn also needed repaired



Other front on that car



So my 600 so far isn't as bad.

Tomorrow I will finish this front right jack point. Then move to and hopefully complete the other front jack point and maybe have time to get one of the rear ones cut back at least.