Because it cuts so quickly the surrounding metal doesn't heat up, especially on thin stuff like body work. A few seconds after cutting you could touch the cut with a bare hand!
- Thread starter Turbo
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Because it cuts so quickly the surrounding metal doesn't heat up, especially on thin stuff like body work. A few seconds after cutting you could touch the cut with a bare hand!
charlysays
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Sounds cool. I will "unbox" and give it a go
Found a demo on youtube of it slicing all sorts like butter, without the arc length guide. With that fitted the cut seems messy and slow.I was using mine to begin with with the clip on spacer thingy, then without..... but I was trying to maintain a gap... but this video shows the tip being dragged on the workpiece?
For sure he was getting tidier easier cuts than I was getting (mines a 30, not a 40 btw) - so I'm guessing my technique & gap was rubbish
For sure he was getting tidier easier cuts than I was getting (mines a 30, not a 40 btw) - so I'm guessing my technique & gap was rubbish
James1979
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You get drag tips that are designed to be in contact with the workpiece and, umm non drag ones (can’t remember the name), which aren’t.I was using mine to begin with with the clip on spacer thingy, then without..... but I was trying to maintain a gap... but this video shows the tip being dragged on the workpiece?
For sure he was getting tidier easier cuts than I was getting (mines a 30, not a 40 btw) - so I'm guessing my technique & gap was rubbish
His may have been supplied with drag ones.
I went to look at a friends the other day when he couldn’t get it to work. Binned that stupid wire thing and kept a gap and it’s fine now.
That's something else new I've learned! Didn't know that!
I wonder how you can tell which ones you've got, and what the difference is when buying
James1979
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They look a bit different and the end is generally slightly castellated but depends on the tip / torch.That's something else new I've learned! Didn't know that!
I wonder how you can tell which ones you've got, and what the difference is when buying
If you Google it there’s plenty of info.
Tons on gaztube but haven’t time to siphon out the crap sorry.
I've done somme googlin' & tubin' - & tbh there seems to be a lots of material out there that doesn't spell things out clearly (so not good & a waste of time).
It' seems that if you have a non-pilot arc PT31 Torch, then you use drag tips & drag method.
However if you have the pilot arc WSD-60 torch, then it seems that the "stand off" 1/8" / 3mm gap (by good technique or use of a Guide of some type) is the idea (also said to wear tips less ).
The design and tips are notably different between a PT31 non-pilot & the WSD-60 pilot-arc torch - but I wasn't able to find out if that means the pilot arc version can/can't should/shouldn't be dragged on the material you're cutting.
Finding out if you can use a WSD-60 pilot arc torch using the direct contact drag method to get better, neater cuts and easier to manage...... seems to be something I could not get a straight, clear, unequivocal answer to - no matter how I phrased the search string.
It' seems that if you have a non-pilot arc PT31 Torch, then you use drag tips & drag method.
However if you have the pilot arc WSD-60 torch, then it seems that the "stand off" 1/8" / 3mm gap (by good technique or use of a Guide of some type) is the idea (also said to wear tips less
).The design and tips are notably different between a PT31 non-pilot & the WSD-60 pilot-arc torch - but I wasn't able to find out if that means the pilot arc version can/can't should/shouldn't be dragged on the material you're cutting.
Finding out if you can use a WSD-60 pilot arc torch using the direct contact drag method to get better, neater cuts and easier to manage...... seems to be something I could not get a straight, clear, unequivocal answer to - no matter how I phrased the search string.
First time I used on thin steel I was amazed, it was like slicing paper with a stanley knife.Sounds cool. I will "unbox" and give it a go
charlysays
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Good stuff. I was in Lidl yesterday for "food" and whilst the plasma cutters are all gone I managed to find a consumables kit, happy days.
DAPPH
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What was the price ? . I got a set of 25 complete units of consumables for £13 off Ali Ba Ba .. the same place where yours initially originated from I guess. It took three weeks for the package to arrive including strike days .
charlysays
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£14.99 so probably a lot more expensive. Could you share a link please? Will save for future reference. I buy off aliexpress a bit and tbf it's been excellent. No quibles with refunds and most of it shows up and is decent.
DAPPH
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FOMO .... On /Off .......... get one now and don't open it , sell it for double on ETSY in early Dec as " A mans ideal Crimbo prezzie from a loving wife..... " .
That is of course if you can resist the temptation to open it , have a play and learn ...... cutting those caravan panels would have been a doddle with one especially one with the integral compressor in it .
I'm already starting to save on thin slitting discs for the angle grinder .
So far I've used it to cut 10 mm x 40 mm flat steel bar to make a pair of shelf supports for car battery & charger shelf , cut out half a dozen 5 mm thick adjustable support brackets for the air tubes & exhaust pipe on the Chinese diesel heater .
I'll be using mine again for a , " Roundtuit" job in a couple of days , to make a new rear axle frame for one of the plastic four wheeled garden trollies , It cost £45 about 12 yrs ago , tthe invisable Welsh iron moths have had a feast on the cheap Chinese poormans backyard made soft iron tubing that formerly supported then axle . A new trolley is £120 ... so it will have well & truly paid for itself in the six months I've had it .
That is of course if you can resist the temptation to open it , have a play and learn ...... cutting those caravan panels would have been a doddle with one especially one with the integral compressor in it .
I'm already starting to save on thin slitting discs for the angle grinder .
So far I've used it to cut 10 mm x 40 mm flat steel bar to make a pair of shelf supports for car battery & charger shelf , cut out half a dozen 5 mm thick adjustable support brackets for the air tubes & exhaust pipe on the Chinese diesel heater .
I'll be using mine again for a , " Roundtuit" job in a couple of days , to make a new rear axle frame for one of the plastic four wheeled garden trollies , It cost £45 about 12 yrs ago , tthe invisable Welsh iron moths have had a feast on the cheap Chinese poormans backyard made soft iron tubing that formerly supported then axle . A new trolley is £120 ... so it will have well & truly paid for itself in the six months I've had it .
I used my plasma again tonight - cutting rotten sections out of the (removed from van) rear twin wheelarch.
Seemed to go a bit better - I'm a bit less wary of the thing (not sure if that's a good thing!) and perhaps I used a bit better technique .
It was good practice, and less sparky and noisy and what-not than a grinder.
Hooked it up to my larger compressor (not sure if it's 150 or 200L - a 50yo Ingersoll Rand with a vee cast-iron pump - only I think 145psi & maybe 9cfm, plus it was originally a 3ph & now 1ph motor). Metal was thinner than the 3mm plate I first tried it on too.
I can't cut a straight line to save my life without a guide - I can say that for sure - but I'm quite enjoying mucking about with it.
Seemed to go a bit better - I'm a bit less wary of the thing (not sure if that's a good thing!) and perhaps I used a bit better technique
.It was good practice, and less sparky and noisy and what-not than a grinder.
Hooked it up to my larger compressor (not sure if it's 150 or 200L - a 50yo Ingersoll Rand with a vee cast-iron pump - only I think 145psi & maybe 9cfm, plus it was originally a 3ph & now 1ph motor). Metal was thinner than the 3mm plate I first tried it on too.
I can't cut a straight line to save my life without a guide - I can say that for sure - but I'm quite enjoying mucking about with it.
MattF
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