Omtech K40 laser engraver

[mrsbruce]

Ok, so Santa was very, very generous to me this year, and got me a K40 laser engraver. I’ve been having fun with it, as I want to reduce my leatherwork (or at least the hand stitching) as I’m starting to have problems with my hands having an opinion about the work I do.

The laser came with the standard Nano M2 board, which works with Laser K40 Whisper, and Inkscape. I am still learning Inkscape, but I do not find how it works entirely intuative. What I was wondering about was spending the last of my Xmas money on an upgrade board, which would allow a host of other stuff to happen, including using LightBurn software, which would allow me to control the laser directly, and create/edit stuff.

Only downside is that I have to order from the US, so customs duty, Royal Mail, a big black hole for packages to dissapear down. Good thing is, I can buy it through Amazon, and I love Amazon.

Does anyone have any helpful thoughts on this, or even whether another board would make better sense?

 

[slim_boy_fat]

^^ You're going to run out of space at this rate, Mrs B.

 

[mrsbruce]

^^ You're going to run out of space at this rate, Mrs B.

I did that years ago. I’ve been eyeing up the top of the wardrobe as a sleeping place, to make more room.

 

[pcwizme]

Ok, so Santa was very, very generous to me this year, and got me a K40 laser engraver. I’ve been having fun with it, as I want to reduce my leatherwork (or at least the hand stitching) as I’m starting to have problems with my hands having an opinion about the work I do.

The laser came with the standard Nano M2 board, which works with Laser K40 Whisper, and Inkscape. I am still learning Inkscape, but I do not find how it works entirely intuative. What I was wondering about was spending the last of my Xmas money on an upgrade board, which would allow a host of other stuff to happen, including using LightBurn software, which would allow me to control the laser directly, and create/edit stuff.

Only downside is that I have to order from the US, so customs duty, Royal Mail, a big black hole for packages to dissapear down. Good thing is, I can buy it through Amazon, and I love Amazon.

Does anyone have any helpful thoughts on this, or even whether another board would make better sense?

I got an update board for mine, fitted it, works well, then upgraded to a 50w, then a 100w.... the 50w has gone and the k40 with the upgrade board hasnt been looked at in 3 or so years, its a Cohesion 3d board (I also bought the screen upgrade but never worked out how to get it to work as it was a week later I found the 50w at a local collage up for sale!) If you want the board and all the bits with it at a cracking price let me know (Cost me over £200 as it included shipping and customs charge) at least then you can see how you like it

 

[mrsbruce]

Hi, I feel a brain picking session coming on.

PM almost sent

 

[mrsbruce]

Oops…. That should have read pm sent.


Must get decent glasses.

 

[Robotstar5]

Oops…. That should have read pm sent.


Must get decent glasses.

Have you left them on top of the wardrobe?

 

[mike 109444]

Home/diy laser eye treatment

 

[mrsbruce]

Have you left them on top of the wardrobe?

You mean I have to climb back up there again?

clucking bells!……

 

[mrsbruce]

Small update.

Thanks to pcwizme I’ve upgraded the K40 board to the Cohesion 3D board and downloaded Laserburn software, among the usual upgrades everyone does (Better extraction, air assist, etc).

I faffed about for hours fitting a drag chain cable thing to feed the air tube, and finally plumped for the set up you see below. Only problem was that everything I was engraving, would randomly move its engraving point, and mess the engraving up.

Lots of googling and rude words later, I finally realised the chain would occasionally rub very slightly on the lid of the engraver, causing the head to sometimes sort of stick, then jump.

I cannot get the chain to lie flat during use, and have resorted to adding a little metal ‘extension’ to the lid of the K40, allowing the lid to sit about 3cm higher and out of the way.

Obviously, this isn’t the best resolution, so has anyone had a problem using the type of drag cable seen below on anything, and more importantly, found a way to get it to run as flat as possible.

A RBFH is on standby as last resort.

 

[Robotstar5]

Going on industrial power chain experience your chain is upside down, the moving end should be above the fixed end so it "unrolls" as it moves.

 

[Erie Fred]

Going on industrial power chain experience your chain is upside down, the moving end should be above the fixed end so it "unrolls" as it moves.

Here's a pix that shows what he means:

 

[mrsbruce]

These are what I’m basing my layout on. That and a mention on a forum of someone who fitted this layout using a hot air gun to convince the chain to change its path a bit. The majority of folk fitting a drag chain air assist to K40s seem to fit them sideways. They all also complain the chain eventually sags, and sometimes gets hit by the laser.

I did initially try the idea of having the moving end above the fixed end, as it seemed more sensible. Unfortunately, I just couldn’t get it to work in that space, nor could I find any images for a K40 done that way. There again, the internet is a big place, so something WILL be out there.

I will be printing out a few brackets this weekend to let me play with the layout. But at least I can engrave stuff with my Heath Robinson solution. As you can see on the bottom image, they have used a high tech zip tie to solve the ‘humpy’ chain problem. Someone after my own heart.

 

[RIP]

I admire those who've fitted a nice chain. I didn't have the patience and went for a crude recoil hose.

Have you found a solution for a marker to help you position the cutting start point? That's a really useful addition. I tried a few solutions but they were all flimsy and got in the way so I eventually went for a ring of LEDs which then projects through the mirrors and cutting head.

I see you've sorted a Z table as well

 

[Erie Fred]

These are what I’m basing my layout on. That and a mention on a forum of someone who fitted this layout using a hot air gun to convince the chain to change its path a bit. The majority of folk fitting a drag chain air assist to K40s seem to fit them sideways. They all also complain the chain eventually sags, and sometimes gets hit by the laser.

I did initially try the idea of having the moving end above the fixed end, as it seemed more sensible. Unfortunately, I just couldn’t get it to work in that space, nor could I find any images for a K40 done that way. There again, the internet is a big place, so something WILL be out there.

I will be printing out a few brackets this weekend to let me play with the layout. But at least I can engrave stuff with my Heath Robinson solution. As you can see on the bottom image, they have used a high tech zip tie to solve the ‘humpy’ chain problem. Someone after my own heart.

View attachment 410899 View attachment 410900

Buck the trend, fix it right, and then post it on the "Toob":..
Just because everyone else did it wrong, don't make it right.

 

[mrsbruce]

I admire those who've fitted a nice chain. I didn't have the patience and went for a crude recoil hose.

Have you found a solution for a marker to help you position the cutting start point? That's a really useful addition. I tried a few solutions but they were all flimsy and got in the way so I eventually went for a ring of LEDs which then projects through the mirrors and cutting head.

I see you've sorted a Z table as well

View attachment 410903 View attachment 410904

Not quite got to fitting the z table yet. I did a bit of walking back on upgrades, working on the premise of fix one booboo before I create another.

I’d considered the coil tube, but again, I just never liked how I’d set it up. Again, I just seem to be building in another problem for myself.

I do like your answer to marking the position using the led ring and mirrors. I may steal that idea. I also agree, the add on laser spot fittings don’t look as if they’d survive a direct hit from a bit ply cack handedly removed from the bed.

Are you using Lightburn? If so, how are you getting along with it.

 

[RIP]

I do like your answer to marking the position using the led ring and mirrors. I may steal that idea.

I've attached the DXF for the position ring. I used 8 LEDs in series so that they can connect direct to the power supply.

Are you using Lightburn? If so, how are you getting along with it.

I design in Solidworks and then export to K40 whisperer which then sends to the laser. I haven't got to changing the board yet, but I hear that Lightburn is streets ahead.

BTW you may already know that these things aren't earthed well and they operate on 15'000 volts. My Omtech had continuity to earth but it relied on the edges of the screw holes providing continuity, so I felt obliged to improve on that.

I'm also suspicious of the screen on these things. Laser screens usually show a type approval mark and the wavelength that they protect against. These screens have nothing, so I wear decent type approved glasses as a precaution.

I really enjoy laser cutting and it's surprisingly useful. I've had mine a while now.

 

[Robotstar5]

I admire those who've fitted a nice chain. I didn't have the patience and went for a crude recoil hose.

I was going to suggest a recoil hose on a bar, even did a pic to help explain the principle

 

[mrsbruce]

I've attached the DXF for the position ring. I used 8 LEDs in series so that they can connect direct to the power supply.


I design in Solidworks and then export to K40 whisperer which then sends to the laser. I haven't got to changing the board yet, but I hear that Lightburn is streets ahead.

BTW you may already know that these things aren't earthed well and they operate on 15'000 volts. My Omtech had continuity to earth but it relied on the edges of the screw holes providing continuity, so I felt obliged to improve on that.

I'm also suspicious of the screen on these things. Laser screens usually show a type approval mark and the wavelength that they protect against. These screens have nothing, so I wear decent type approved glasses as a precaution.

I really enjoy laser cutting and it's surprisingly useful. I've had mine a while now.

Thanks, I’ll send the DXF file over to my desktop for a peruse.

I did like using the Inkscape and K40 whisperer software, but I like the Lightburn everything ‘in house’ thing.

I’ve made sure the earth screws have some good metal to cuddle up to, and bought myself a decent pair of goggles (I also want to keep my eyes for the foreseeable future). As I learn about the engraver, software, and materials settings, like the 3D printers, I also find myself finding stuff I really want to make.

Did you dump the silly funnel vent at the back? I bought one of those in line fans that usually are fitted in a loft. Draws nicely, and not too loud.

 

[RIP]

Thanks, I’ll send the DXF file over to my desktop for a peruse.

BTW my LED projector attaches with magnets, as it needs to be able to move to align it.

Did you dump the silly funnel vent at the back?

I trimmed the funnel back. My laser is in the garage so the extractor goes straight out through a wall, so I didn't need extra extraction power.

You can see from photos that my setup isn't perfectly neat, and I didn't do all the posisble mods, I got my K40 to a decent state and now it's just a work horse.

I did make a Z table from alu extrusion, and I planned to make it motorised so that I could cut thick material, but to be honest I've found most parts can be made from thin material. When I need something tough I use engineering plastic (Delrin aka Acetol).