Heating oil tank wobbles on supports!

[dobbslc]

I have a massive 3000 litre oil tank that wobbles on it's mounts, I know it needs replacing but for now it needs to stay.
I want to build in some extra supports as if I do decide to fill it on cheap oil it won't collapse!
You'll see from the photos that it's a bit special

I'm thinking of building two more piers at the ends with concrete blocks but I'm not sure how to get the blocks so they actually take some weight, I know I can pack slate in but I don't know if it will work.
Could I jack up the tank a mm or two while the morter sets?
Any suggestions on what's best here?

 

[James1979]

I have a massive 3000 litre oil tank that wobbles on it's mounts, I know it needs replacing but for now it needs to stay.
I want to build in some extra supports as if I do decide to fill it on cheap oil it won't collapse!
You'll see from the photos that it's a bit special
View attachment 359546View attachment 359547
I'm thinking of building two more piers at the ends with concrete blocks but I'm not sure how to get the blocks so they actually take some weight, I know I can pack slate in but I don't know if it will work.
Could I jack up the tank a mm or two while the morter sets?
Any suggestions on what's best here?

If it’s empty then use a spreader beam and Jack away. Get it to a sensible/ useful height, in increments if needed, then put axle stands under the beam. Repeat at the other end.

I laboured for a builder for a bit while I was at college and we put a big steel across a house to support a new dormer. I remember that was packed level on the supporting walls with slates so it’s obviously a ‘thing’

Was a long time ago mind but I do remember that bit.

 

[Morrisman]

If you build the blocks up and leave a gap you could squish mortar in to fill said gap, then as soon as the tank is filled it will flex a touch and the weight will be taken up by the new supports.

 

[gaz1]

I have a massive 3000 litre oil tank that wobbles on it's mounts, I know it needs replacing but for now it needs to stay.
I want to build in some extra supports as if I do decide to fill it on cheap oil it won't collapse!
You'll see from the photos that it's a bit special
View attachment 359546View attachment 359547
I'm thinking of building two more piers at the ends with concrete blocks but I'm not sure how to get the blocks so they actually take some weight, I know I can pack slate in but I don't know if it will work.
Could I jack up the tank a mm or two while the morter sets?
Any suggestions on what's best here?

a prime example of why some people shouldnt build supports

with that theres no support its literally sat on flat plate with no strength as thats at the ends

stretching the material due to the weight of the tank

 

[J1nx]

Depends who supplies you but we needed full support under ours rather than pillars and the ones we had were far better than that

 

[wyn]

As gaz1 says,

It's sitting on the flexible flat bottom.
The supports need to come out right to the edge.

Maybe a bit of timber between blocks and tank that comes out to the edge of the tank or past it.

 

[gaz1]

no timber to be used it has to be solid built with support at the right places

steel rots and so does girders

so only other reference is a concrete pad which your not going to get in there at this moment in time

just build the 4 corners up at ends it will do what you need for now

even the above is wrong as theres no containment if the tank busts open of the oil as theres no walls to catch the leaking oil out of the tank

 

[gaz1]

how long is your intention to keep that tank in use ?

before i offer options

 

[Morrisman]

Agree with Gaz1. On top of everything else, it looks like those ‘supports are insulation blocks, not really structural.

Or are they solid concrete blocks? I still would not stand any large steel tank directly on those ‘supports’.

Most definitely needs a bund, too.

I used similar looking blocks to build my garage a good few years ago. If they are the same ones they are well solid, weighed 30lbs each. 40lbs for the 6" wide ones.

 

[jenki]

That is about the size of the original steel tank installed here (bunded plastic now) and about as well built as ours was. My father and I built 3 replacement pillars and topped them with concrete lintels to support the tank; the tank was jacked up and supported on timber cribbing whilst this was being done (tank was almost empty).
Do you need that height? as long as the tank is above the level of the burner it should be ok and easy to bleed. Our original boiler was a 'wallflame' that needed a minimum head to operate long gone i'm glad to say.

 

[knighty]

how full is it?

I'd lift it up then lay concrete fence posts long ways - on top of the old blocks

(or use whatever else is alliable/cheap)

I'd put 4 in... but the more the merrier really

thing to remember is, it's not like lifting/supporting something solid where you'd try to get most of the support at the sides/corners... all the weight is acting down through the bottom of it


I was thinking you'd be best with something big/flat under it... but then you worry about trapping water/rot

thinking of that - do you have a low drain point? bottom could well be full of water and rotting it from the inside?

 

[dobbslc]

Agree with Gaz1. On top of everything else, it looks like those ‘supports are insulation blocks, not really structural.

Or are they solid concrete blocks? I still would not stand any large steel tank directly on those ‘supports’.

Most definitely needs a bund, too.

They are concrete blocks. As I said it's temporary until its replacement goes in so I'm not putting a bund in.

how full is it?

I'd lift it up then lay concrete fence posts long ways - on top of the old blocks

(or use whatever else is alliable/cheap)

I'd put 4 in... but the more the merrier really

thing to remember is, it's not like lifting/supporting something solid where you'd try to get most of the support at the sides/corners... all the weight is acting down through the bottom of it


I was thinking you'd be best with something big/flat under it... but then you worry about trapping water/rot

thinking of that - do you have a low drain point? bottom could well be full of water and rotting it from the inside?

It's about 1/3 full so nearly 1000 liters and there's no doubt water in there!
It's a pile of **** but it needs a lot of work to sort out properly so I just want to make sure it stays where it is for a while longer.
There's a live overhead supply cable just above it so I don't think a hi-ab will even lift it out.

 

[Pete.]

I have a massive 3000 litre oil tank that wobbles on it's mounts, I know it needs replacing but for now it needs to stay.
I want to build in some extra supports as if I do decide to fill it on cheap oil it won't collapse!
You'll see from the photos that it's a bit special
View attachment 359546View attachment 359547
I'm thinking of building two more piers at the ends with concrete blocks but I'm not sure how to get the blocks so they actually take some weight, I know I can pack slate in but I don't know if it will work.
Could I jack up the tank a mm or two while the morter sets?
Any suggestions on what's best here?

Dry packing with sharp sand & Cement will create a load bearing gap fill but that original support couldn't be much worse if someone designed it to be.

For a temporary measure I'd get some 130mm 7n blocks build a spine wall down the middle and a pier each end then dry pack it. That would take out the wobble and support the tank bottom.

 

[gaz1]

you want to build 4 corner posts of 9x9 concrete block concrete block cut in half

then buy concrete posts 2 for the full length outside and you want some smaller for the end supports

this will hold the outside stable walls

you also want 2 more walls built internal but thats after you do the above and fit in 2-3 extra support as you build it from the outside to the inside

 

[awemawson]

I thought CH tanks HAD to be bunded these days

 

[gaz1]

if you want to keep what you have already just drill through the top block and install concrete posts through them

then build your outside walls jack up where needed if you can install the outside posts let it set lower jack up the rear do the same

the last to set is your internals that need to be jacked up and slated until its supported

 

[DAPPH]

I have a massive 3000 litre oil tank that wobbles on it's mounts, I know it needs replacing but for now it needs to stay.
I want to build in some extra supports as if I do decide to fill it on cheap oil it won't collapse!
You'll see from the photos that it's a bit special
View attachment 359546View attachment 359547
I'm thinking of building two more piers at the ends with concrete blocks but I'm not sure how to get the blocks so they actually take some weight, I know I can pack slate in but I don't know if it will work.
Could I jack up the tank a mm or two while the morter sets?
Any suggestions on what's best here?

I'm surprised the oil suppliers are still filling a steel tank for you .

Here in South Wales it's been plastic tanks fully supported either no a reinforced pad or shoulder to shoulder reinforced posts across supports like yours the length of the tank for over 15 years .
For the last ten years the plastic tanks have to be bunded & able to handle BIO fuels which killed the earlier tanks due to the ethanol content & no sight tubes as they are major leakage points either just a filter & stop cock adjacent to the tank . Our supplier sent us letters about it some 14 yrs ago , a few weeks after we got the latest upgraded tank and ultrasonic fuel sensors for it . Next door have recently had a low level single out let bunded tank fitted when they had a complete new heating system done under grant . They had to have the bio resistant tank installed to the very latest regulations .
Three or four 400 mm x 400 mm deep by the width of the tank plus a bit more trenches dug & filled with quick set then reinforced posts then paving slabs laid on the posts to get a flat surface ... seems it's the current requirement .
Most modernish ( 15 yrs or less ? )oil boilers don't need a head of gravity fed oil as there is usually a decent pump in the boiler casing .

The fuel company guys like my tank I've put steps at the end that also protects the fuel out pipe ,the filter & stop cock so they can reach the five foot six inch high filler hole with ease

 

[gaz1]

I'm surprised the oil suppliers are still filling a steel tank for you .

Here in South Wales it's been plastic tanks fully supported either no a reinforced pad or shoulder to shoulder reinforced posts across supports like yours the length of the tank for over 15 years .
For the last ten years the plastic tanks have to be bunded & able to handle BIO fuels which killed the earlier tanks due to the ethanol content & no sight tubes as they are major leakage points either just a filter & stop cock adjacent to the tank . Our supplier sent us letters about it some 14 yrs ago , a few weeks after we got the latest upgraded tank and ultrasonic fuel sensors for it .

to a degree that was a big con to get you to upgrade to a new double wall tank however your build should really have another containment wall

as really you cant see if the first wall has failed and the second one could be degraded just by the sunlight alone and yet can still fail

you wouldnt know the first one has failed you dont know when the second wall is goin to fail

Above Ground Oil Storage Tanks (PPG2) - 5. Oil storage tanks

but if both walls do fail

1200L Spill at Rural Domestic Property - ATG Group

Summary A farmer working late at night lost control of his tractor while travelling down a country lane. The tractor trailer, loaded with silage, overturned and landed in a domestic property. During the overturn, the trailer clipped and punctured a 1200L oil tank at its base which had recently...

www.atg-group.co.uk

at least with a containment wall you could fit a new tank and repump the the containment oil back into the newly installed tank

 

[DAPPH]

The bunded area is checked by me before the tank is refilled and dip sticked to see if there is any oil or water in the bunded void . At present there is no requirement in Wales for a containment wall for 1500 litre bunded tanks or less but it may well happen before we go over to GSHP's or ASHP's
Any leakage into the bund that's noticed ..... Our fuel supplier 400 mtrs away will come & pump the tank dry putting every thing through a filter & into 45 gallon drums then replace the tank for just over cost then refill and top up if needed .

Not sure any con was involved , next door thought they would be cheap skates and replaced their leaking steel tank with a single skin used tank , within a year it had had all the side seams destroyed by the new 10 % bio fuel , t'would have been funny but they are four feet higher up the hill than me and the 600 or so litres of heating oil leakage killed my pond and knocked one of the oak trees back considerable .

Another thing that negates a con .... I had cause to call the water board four years ago , our bungalow reeked of heating oil and smelly oily drains . It made us feel quite sick . The iWelsh water investigators lifted my three manholes and were taken aback at the fumes , same with next door down the hill ...we were getting heavy oily exhaust from their waste soil vent pipe ( I re laid mine to take it 30 mtrs away just after we came her 17 yrs ago ) They worked the way up & down the hill and discovered a bungalow with oil tank in the front garden that had also split the side seams due to 10% bio oil damage .

 

[JimmyS]

The burners on most oil boilers can be adapted with a de aerator (tiger loop) so the tank doesn't need to be above the burner, and can be under by a metre or so. Need to adapt the pipework from the burner to the tiger loop to a 2 pipe setup.