Cooler??
- Thread starter ukracer
- Start date
This is whaT makes me angry.
https://www.obdiitool.co.uk/wholesa...RIsAIdeyDLF9nZS57pO-UKqgV2VZ1qqgjQ7AOr3xcF3zt
How am I supposed to know if their claims are true?
My son reckons it was my Saab that I fitted the blanking plate.... me I just don't care anymore. The more I try. The more I fail. I have a bottle of whisky here at least it will take my mind off the leadership election even if I can't sell my 5thwheel.
Thanks to all who have contributed...Enjoy the whisky
Your generic code reader will give you a ballpark of where to look
Re-read your thread tomorrow with a fresh mind is my advise
I’m sure the answer of where you need to look will be in there
premmington
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Right... ukracer Here goes with the help: Put the toy town scanner down! It has served it's purpose (you have gained enough codes to lead you towards the DPF being sooted up).
Vehicle history dictates - 5ltrs of oil have been down the exhaust quickly. So nobody here (including you) is gonna be shocked if everything is sooted up or blocked.
1. Remove DPF pressure sensor 1 & 2 - check for blockages in pipework to sensors - normal problem. You will be wanting the inside of cycle brake or gear cable. To physically check for blockages. If blocked - get a can of brake cleaner - put end of cycle cable in a small battery drill and ream out the pipework. Practical workshop tip No 1.
2. If engine won't run or won't rev up - slacken DPF off at front end - and run engine letting exhaust gasses go to atomosphere - if engine gains revs and runs better the DPF is blocked too much to let engine run. Engine is constipated (small joke-sic). Practical workshop tip No 2.
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3. If the DPF is partially blocked - you are gonna have to run this on "live data" - to take readings from sensor 1 & 2 (after cleaning). If you are not equipped to take these readings - these can done with IR thermometer - if you have flow - after about 30mins running at idle - the temp should be even across the DPF - if you don't have flow it will be hotter at the front of the DPF. Practical workshop tip No 3.
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If the DPF is blocked - your choices are: New/used/pattern or professional cleaning. Or even DPF delete (knocking the core out and mapping the P Code table to suit).
I don't fit used DPF's or pattern ones in my workshop - I have has some success with sending DPF's away for cleaning thou! I have had problems with pattern DPF's failing on Transits after 500miles - they just can't take heat and melt - blocking the path for the exhaust gas and preventing the engine running. Plus anything I buy used off eBay tends to worse than what I am trying to replace - I may have just been unlucky. I don't do DPF deletes (I am equipped to do it - but I just don't offer this service). I am not saying I would'nt if my own car needed a £2k DPF filter - but I seen this Euro emissions problem coming and only run petrol cars myself (smug fat mechanic
).
Heavy oil charge is a killer for DPF filters - turbos failing - valve stems dripping. For a DPF lots of oil quickly is too much for them to handle - a high carbon wet load - is not like a few dry particulates from EGR's and normal diesel combustion. For any DPF - oil is the killer....
The last bit of advice: Guesswork - "parts darts" costs/wastes money - test/test/test! Prove the fault! Find the fault - spend your "pocket money" wisely.
Vehicle history dictates - 5ltrs of oil have been down the exhaust quickly. So nobody here (including you) is gonna be shocked if everything is sooted up or blocked.
1. Remove DPF pressure sensor 1 & 2 - check for blockages in pipework to sensors - normal problem. You will be wanting the inside of cycle brake or gear cable. To physically check for blockages. If blocked - get a can of brake cleaner - put end of cycle cable in a small battery drill and ream out the pipework. Practical workshop tip No 1.
2. If engine won't run or won't rev up - slacken DPF off at front end - and run engine letting exhaust gasses go to atomosphere - if engine gains revs and runs better the DPF is blocked too much to let engine run. Engine is constipated (small joke-sic). Practical workshop tip No 2.
------------
3. If the DPF is partially blocked - you are gonna have to run this on "live data" - to take readings from sensor 1 & 2 (after cleaning). If you are not equipped to take these readings - these can done with IR thermometer - if you have flow - after about 30mins running at idle - the temp should be even across the DPF - if you don't have flow it will be hotter at the front of the DPF. Practical workshop tip No 3.
------------
If the DPF is blocked - your choices are: New/used/pattern or professional cleaning. Or even DPF delete (knocking the core out and mapping the P Code table to suit).
I don't fit used DPF's or pattern ones in my workshop - I have has some success with sending DPF's away for cleaning thou! I have had problems with pattern DPF's failing on Transits after 500miles - they just can't take heat and melt - blocking the path for the exhaust gas and preventing the engine running. Plus anything I buy used off eBay tends to worse than what I am trying to replace - I may have just been unlucky. I don't do DPF deletes (I am equipped to do it - but I just don't offer this service). I am not saying I would'nt if my own car needed a £2k DPF filter - but I seen this Euro emissions problem coming and only run petrol cars myself (smug fat mechanic
).Heavy oil charge is a killer for DPF filters - turbos failing - valve stems dripping. For a DPF lots of oil quickly is too much for them to handle - a high carbon wet load - is not like a few dry particulates from EGR's and normal diesel combustion. For any DPF - oil is the killer....
The last bit of advice: Guesswork - "parts darts" costs/wastes money - test/test/test! Prove the fault! Find the fault - spend your "pocket money" wisely.
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I am.on it now.. Two small glasses of whisky and coke ensured a good night's sleep.Enjoy the whisky
Your generic code reader will give you a ballpark of where to look
Re-read your thread tomorrow with a fresh mind is my advise
I’m sure the answer of where you need to look will be in there
Only one problem today (sons birthday) . All six of us have some sort of bug. Only me who has not been sick yet...
probably the whisky helping. so celebrations suspended till later in the week. So I am looking at that as a glass half full bonus.....
Actually given what we have done i am not so much shocked but confused. (I do take note of what you say below though.
Ok I like this one. If i was doing the work. This is what my gut feeling is leading me to especially as the car idles, revs (all be it not as it used to) and can sustain a regen forced by computer and it got hot...
Engine starts and runs fine WITH DPF fitted.
If the truck is run without the DPF it throws a fault code. Not seen it myself (physically) but i think engine management light comes on immediately.
I will be doing this Monday (illness allowing) I like this one a lot. As i said my gut thinks this is the key to solving it all. (And i have a big one) I even have an IR thermometer
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If the DPF is blocked - your choices are: New/used/pattern or professional cleaning. Or even DPF delete (knocking the core out and mapping the P Code table to suit).
I don't fit used DPF's or pattern ones in my workshop - I have has some success with sending DPF's away for cleaning thou! I have had problems with pattern DPF's failing on Transits after 500miles - they just can't take heat and melt - blocking the path for the exhaust gas and preventing the engine running. Plus anything I buy used off eBay tends to worse than what I am trying to replace - I may have just been unlucky. I don't do DPF deletes (I am equipped to do it - but I just don't offer this service). I am not saying I would'nt if my own car needed a £2k DPF filter - but I seen this Euro emissions problem coming and only run petrol cars myself (smug fat mechanic
Snap. Well the smug fat part anyway.
This is a shock as I see oil as a thick black high viscosity water. Not knowing anything about a DPF. Photos i have seen led me to think it could be diluted and washed away.
Obviously my knowledge/thinking is not the way it is in the real world.
The last bit of advice: Guesswork - "parts darts" costs/wastes money - test/test/test! Prove the fault! Find the fault - spend your "pocket money" wisely.
Yes we decided we had spent enough. And I needed to slow my son down as he works and thinks at Mach speed. Being retired I can afford to be slow and methodical, where he has a wife who likes him home when she is not at
work. Lol
Big thanks for taking the time to write such a lengthy in depth reply.
premmington
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Actually given what we have done i am not so much shocked but confused. (I do take note of what you say below though.
Ok I like this one. If i was doing the work. This is what my gut feeling is leading me to especially as the car idles, revs (all be it not as it used to) and can sustain a regen forced by computer and it got hot...
Engine starts and runs fine WITH DPF fitted.
If the truck is run without the DPF it throws a fault code. Not seen it myself (physically) but i think engine management light comes on immediately.
I will be doing this Monday (illness allowing) I like this one a lot. As i said my gut thinks this is the key to solving it all. (And i have a big one) I even have an IR thermometer
Snap. Well the smug fat part anyway.
This is a shock as I see oil as a thick black high viscosity water. Not knowing anything about a DPF. Photos i have seen led me to think it could be diluted and washed away.
Obviously my knowledge/thinking is not the way it is in the real world.
Yes we decided we had spent enough. And I needed to slow my son down as he works and thinks at Mach speed. Being retired I can afford to be slow and methodical, where he has a wife who likes him home when she is not at
work. Lol
Big thanks for taking the time to write such a lengthy in depth reply.
No problem (I took the time to write a "repair plan" that does not need loads of kit).
I got all the gear around me - dealer spec diagnostics - FLIR camera's - and here this - a fan pack kit honeywell fan and manometer to measure DPF flow cold off the vehicle (yeah clamped adapter to fit either end of DPF with a known input fan and a measuring device for the output end).
The best bit of advice I gave you was - test/test/test - no parts darts!
Save your money for the malt - Glenmorangie 10 is my favorite - Glenmorangie Nector 12 if I am feeling like really treating myself. Wanna try Signet @ 35/40 years old - but I need a good reason to spend this much money on a bottle of scotch. Had a Prestige 18 in London hotel once - it was nice - but the measure was so small - I could not really define the taste. Adding coke would not work for me... Diet coke is for cheap Vodka is it not?
Something like this then??No problem (I took the time to write a "repair plan" that does not need loads of kit).
I got all the gear around me - dealer spec diagnostics - FLIR camera's - and here this - a fan pack kit honeywell fan and manometer to measure DPF flow cold off the vehicle (yeah clamped adapter to fit either end of DPF with a known input fan and a measuring device for the output end).
The best bit of advice I gave you was - test/test/test - no parts darts!
Save your money for the malt - Glenmorangie 10 is my favorite - Glenmorangie Nector 12 if I am feeling like really treating myself. Wanna try Signet @ 35/40 years old - but I need a good reason to spend this much money on a bottle of scotch. Had a Prestige 18 in London hotel once - it was nice - but the measure was so small - I could not really define the taste. Adding coke would not work for me... Diet coke is for cheap Vodka is it not?
Probably would taste nice if I drank whiskey.
What about when the maker sells the exact same car in 3 different power levels & the only difference is the map?Want my input! Here goes!
Mapping - don't do it! If you think - someone with a laptop and half an idea - has more computing power than the manufacturers - stop kidding yourself. What you get from the factory is - the most performance/economy/reliability money can buy in one equal package.
Mapping - comes into its own - for dropping faultscodes off P tables to hide faults on old cars.
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Now comes the future: Three year old cars with problems on retail car sales sites (money to be earned). Faults dropped off tables - to get get cars sold - without warning lights on. Diagnostic prospects zero for the next fault. I kid you not....
OH yes is it happening.... Sorry!
premmington
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No real issues here except changing the vehicles insurance group and negating the manufacturers warranty.
Plus this is not avail' at the OEM dealership - non factory stage.
Would just be easier to buy the high power one to start with!
VAG group cars - are often spec'ed like this - the problems start if you have a DSG box - this needs doing as well (an not many mappers only about three in the UK are into these)
We have two problems while fault finding. The consult laptop my son has been lent came without a cable and we don't know if its a specific cable or just OBD2.With a vac/pressure pump and a meter. They dont throw a code they are really just switches, ecu throws up the codes.
Second whilst trying to test the pipes as described by premmington we find there is pressure coming up the one pipe from the DPF but not the other. If we block the exhaust pressure comes from that pipe...
premmington
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- Norfolk
So you get exhaust pressure from the front sensor pipe (bank 1 sensor 1).
But when you blank this pipe (bank 1 sensor 1).
You get exhaust gas from (bank 1 sensor 2) pipe.
Yes...?
If this is case - you have a semi blocked DPF for sure!
8ob
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Define pressure, as a rule of thumb @2500rpm there should be about 1.5psi and flat out about 4.5psi. Any more than that and its blocked or partially blocked. There will always be some pressure at that port because of the nature of the DPF.
Bob
Not quite..
When the engine is running we get exhaust gas through ones of the pipes.
But nothing through the other pipe.
We then checked for flow through both pipes by blowing through and there was no discernable resistant.
We then put a pipe onto the other small pipe on the dpf and we get no exhaust gases while engine is running.
BUT if block the exhaust we do get exhaust gas out of that pipe...
mtt.tr
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Same way a sieve runs when blocked, slowly and with greater resistance
