Today I acquired...........

[Martin-Sy]

One of my neighbours gave me a baccy tin with some BA taps and dies, including these inside:

Anybody know when BSA last made taps?
No left hand taps to go with the dies tho.

 

[Maker]

Pretty happy with this lot.


Sykes circlip pliers, little box has tips of different angle and diameter, not as nice as a full set of Knipex ones but probably the best design for interchangeable tip pliers. The picks are Ullman, IIRC Shox raved about these a while ago, they certainly feel nice in the hand, very fine tips too. The tin on the left is a Sykes clutch alignment tool, I thought it was a tiny slide hammer but alas not. Not much use to me really.

 

[OJCar]

A very pertinent point.

"And the trucks not bad either"
©Autoshite

 

[Barking Mat]

A very pertinent point.

"And the trucks not bad either"
©Autoshite

You have a very good memory.

She's not that pert anymore. God bless lingerie.

And that's silhouette not my wife. She has feet.

 

[Shox Dr]

Pretty happy with this lot.
View attachment 343743

Sykes circlip pliers, little box has tips of different angle and diameter, not as nice as a full set of Knipex ones but probably the best design for interchangeable tip pliers. The picks are Ullman, IIRC Shox raved about these a while ago, they certainly feel nice in the hand, very fine tips too. The tin on the left is a Sykes clutch alignment tool, I thought it was a tiny slide hammer but alas not. Not much use to me really.

Hi Maker. I did. yours look more akin to dental picks, mine are beefier than those

 

[daleyd]

Hi Maker. I did. yours look more akin to dental picks, mine are beefier than those

Good to see you back mate

 

[James1979]

Pretty happy with this lot.
View attachment 343743

Sykes circlip pliers, little box has tips of different angle and diameter, not as nice as a full set of Knipex ones but probably the best design for interchangeable tip pliers. The picks are Ullman, IIRC Shox raved about these a while ago, they certainly feel nice in the hand, very fine tips too. The tin on the left is a Sykes clutch alignment tool, I thought it was a tiny slide hammer but alas not. Not much use to me really.

If it’s no use to you I’d be happy to buy it from you. If that’s not too cheeky

 

[DAPPH]

A big box. It contained..
View attachment 343737
3 flute countersink, diamond bits
View attachment 343738
A tiny 1.5kg swivel vice. I am quite impressed with this. £6.
View attachment 343739
300mm bench shears. Cuts nicely, should be better after adjustment. £31 !!
The feet are not on straight and are warped up but I couldnt give a crap about that.

I dont think my wallet should suffer alone..

Manual Sheet Metal Cutting Shears 300mm

steel-plate hardened carbon shear blades cutting mild steel long handle sheet iron stainless steel copper capacity aluminium 4-5 mm steel capacity 0.2-2 mm blade length 300 mm manual metal cutting Handmatige plaat Platschaar metaal staal Cisaille de coupe manuelle à plat métal acier Manuelle...

www.aimtools.co.uk

Rotating Base Mini Bench Vice 60 mm

【Multipurpose】 Ideal for wood and steel working 【High Capacity】 Maximum jaw opening is 50 mm and mounting clamp jaws open 45 mm max 【Convenient Design】 Swivels 360° to allow you to work at any angle efficiently and has a light weight of 1.6 kg 【Robust】 Manufactured from die cast iron 【Easy to...

www.aimtools.co.uk

Countersink HSS Drill Bits 90 Deg. 6.3 to 60MM

HSS Countersink drills 90 Degrees. Suitable for mild steel, wood, plastic and other non hardened material

www.aimtools.co.uk

I got a Sealy bench 9 inch shear about 25 years ago ,It cost me over £125 IIRC . I'd got over a thousand 150 x 200 mm rectangles of 10 mm steel mesh to cut up a bit better than after angle grinding them off the big panels . Cutting the small panels to a pattern to make observation tubes and places to mount the automatic drinker devices so I could start equipping our small mammal reading farm & get on rearing stock ASAP.

It arrived the afternoon before the Easter holidays . You can imagine how disgruntled I was when I found , you could drop a match stick between the open end of the shear blades Irritated after spending an hour or more drilling big holes in the half inch thick bench bed plate to mount it . In anger ( One of the rare occasions ) , I gave it a wallop with a 7 pound sledge hammer and it was perfect after the second hit .

 

[25.4_mechanic]

A pair of rather old, very heavy power levers to lift even heavier things:

If I wasn't completely asleep at school and the lever blades are about 130mm long from the tilt axis at the front bottom and the hand levers are about 1400mm long from there, then a 95kg person should be able to lift a load of a tonne with one of the levers alone quite effortlessly ...

Have a nice afternoon all

Carsten

--

 

[GRW]

A nice older guy I met when I bought his old Clarke pillar drill a few months back rang me today and said "I've got a few bits for you if you want to call round".

So I called in after work. Turns out he's moving & wasn't going to move all his stuff again, so was lightening the load.

Anyway.... along with a small belt-drive (seized pump) Clarke Compressor and a few drill bits - I ended up bringing this home :

The body/chassis alone is about a foot long and a foot diameter, and it's heavy.
It works beautifully when plugged in, bearings etc all seems smooth.
It's hard to read all the Brooks Plate, but it's i think only 1Hp (must be a Dray Horse though, cos it must have plenty of torque).
It states the startup current is 6.6A, so that suggests it can't be rated at more than 1Hp @ 1420rpm.
It's perhaps 3x the size and weight of the 2hp 4-pole 1400rm motor on my Ingersoll Rand Compressor motor!

 

[GRW]

I removed the cyl head, squirted some GT85 and light oil onto the pistons - and managed to free off the Clarke Compressor pump, and the bores and pistons seem OK with no nasty scores.
Very little oil in the pump (right on the bottom of the filler/dipstick) - so no prizes for working out that it probably got a bit hot. Hard to say without trying it, but it looks like it might have survived (guessing it's not worth stripping a cheapo Clarke Italian (1996) Compressor pump on a 50L portable - so if it works, it works, and if not, ce'st la vie).

The big Brooks though was just too nice and old thing not to save, even though I can't currently think of a use for it.
It's got a spring and bobweight system on the rear of the shaft, which when it throws closes a pair of contacts which look a lot like an old Points system. So it must be a Star/Delta soft/start system I think?

 

[DAPPH]

A pair of rather old, very heavy power levers to lift even heavier things:

View attachment 343842

View attachment 343843

If I wasn't completely asleep at school and the lever blades are about 130mm long from the tilt axis at the front bottom and the hand levers are about 1400mm long from there, then a 95kg person should be able to lift a load of a tonne with one of the levers alone quite effortlessly ...

View attachment 343844


Have a nice afternoon all

Carsten

--

Good for moving really heavy vault safes and machinery ... keep an eye out for four of the small tracked rollers that they usually accompany .

 

[25.4_mechanic]

It's got a spring and bobweight system on the rear of the shaft, which when it throws closes a pair of contacts which look a lot like an old Points system. So it must be a Star/Delta soft/start system I think?

As far as one can read the type plate, the motor seems to be hard-wired for star circuit, but the centrifugal switch could take a starting capacitor out of the circuit when the desired speed is reached - after that it would be counterproductive and would not live long itself either?!?

So, yes, softstart.

Carsten

--

 

[DAPPH]

I removed the cyl head, squirted some GT85 and light oil onto the pistons - and managed to free off the Clarke Compressor pump, and the bores and pistons seem OK with no nasty scores.
Very little oil in the pump (right on the bottom of the filler/dipstick) - so no prizes for working out that it probably got a bit hot. Hard to say without trying it, but it looks like it might have survived (guessing it's not worth stripping a cheapo Clarke Italian (1996) Compressor pump on a 50L portable - so if it works, it works, and if not, ce'st la vie).

The big Brooks though was just too nice and old thing not to save, even though I can't currently think of a use for it.
It's got a spring and bobweight system on the rear of the shaft, which when it throws closes a pair of contacts which look a lot like an old Points system. So it must be a Star/Delta soft/start system I think?

I've just taken a 19 month old dead Clarke 1/3 hp motor I put on my lathe apart that only got 12 or so hours running time out of it . .
It has the same sort of spring contact set up as well as a sliding centrifugal actuator flange on the rotor's shaft , it drops out part of the windings once the heavy start current has got the motor moving ( If I'm right ) .

Have a look at the super special way the rotor was balanced , note the bashed up metal work on it that has been over painted in places , but there is no evidence of any foreign bit being inside the motor to cause the damage . The rotor actually has polished the steel former of windings as evidenced by the ever so slightly colour difference , yet the bearings at both ends have very very little free play in them suggesting a bent shaft ? .

Could this motor be a factory reject that's been recondition in China ?


Darker outer rim polished by the rotor ?

The split load switch , in good condition in the cast iron housing body.
Note...the Chinesium special headed cross slot mounting screws for which out of a dozen nor more different x head screwdrivers I don't have one for that profile .

Precision balancing method

 

[GRW]

As far as one can read the type plate, the motor seems to be hard-wired for star circuit, but the centrifugal switch could take a starting capacitor out of the circuit when the desired speed is reached - after that it would be counterproductive and would not live long itself either?!?

So, yes, softstart.

Carsten

--

Carsten - thanks for that insight. Yes I noted it was stated as just one wiring configuration too - but I don't know a great deal about electric motors themselves.
What you suggested about a start capacitor (and there is a cylinder on the external of the body) makes sense.
Given that 1hp is about 4 Amps, and the starting current stated as just 6.6 Amps (& on a single phase motor too) that suggests that the soft-start system is very efficient!

 

[GRW]

I've just taken a 19 month old dead Clarke 1/3 hp motor I put on mny lathe apart that has the same sort of centriflugal bi metalic contact set up , it drops out part of the windings once the heavy start current has got the motor moving if I'm right

Have a look at the special way the rotor was balanced , note the bashed up metal work but there is no evidence of any foreign bit being inside the motor to cause the damage . The rotor actually has polished the former of rotor as evidenced by the difference in colour ever so slightly , yet the bearings at both ends have very very little free play in them .

Could this motor be a factory reject that's been recondition in China ?


Darker outer rim polished by the rotor ?
View attachment 343887

The split load switch , in good condition in the cast iron housing body.
Note...the Chinesium special headed cross slot mounting screws for which out of a dozen nor more different x head screwdrivers I don't have one for that profile .

View attachment 343888



View attachment 343886

Precision balancing method

Not inspiring! Luckily the 2hp 2800rpm (ish) motor on this Compressor is working fine (offload af least).
When it was first shown to me, plugged in the motor just made that strained noise they do when trying to turn, but failing.
Thinking maybe if was just a naffed Capacitor my first effort was to remove and measure the capacitance- which was spot on..... so I pulled off the front off the pulley guard and found the pump was solid .
(Annoyingly without the space or tools to get the guards and belt off properly at the old fella's place, I cut the belt to prove the electric motor was ok... and now I need a new belt to find out if I've got a viable Compressor ).
I suppose I could have tried that mahoosive Brooks on it (half speed and weighs more than the rest of the whole Compressor)

 

[Bki26]

spring contact set up as well as a sliding centrifugal actuator flange on the rotor's shaft

Like this?

 

[DAPPH]

Like this?

Yes ..... but my set had a silver plating that's less toxic .

Not inspiring! Luckily the 2hp 2800rpm (ish) motor on this Compressor is working fine (offload af least).
When it was first shown to me, plugged in the motor just made that strained noise they do when trying to turn, but failing.
Thinking maybe if was just a naffed Capacitor my first effort was to remove and measure the capacitance- which was spot on..... so I pulled off the front off the pulley guard and found the pump was solid .
(Annoyingly without the space or tools to get the guards and belt off properly at the old fella's place, I cut the belt to prove the electric motor was ok... and now I need a new belt to find out if I've got a viable Compressor ).
I suppose I could have tried that mahoosive Brooks on it (half speed and weighs more than the rest of the whole Compressor)

Use Fenner link belting running in the direction of the arrows on the links and adjust it once it's bedded in ?

 

[GRW]

Like this?

Yes ..... but my set had a silver plating that's less toxic .

Use Fenner link belting running in the direction of the arrows on the links and adjust it once it's bedded in ?

I dunno where I'd source Fenner Link Belting (though I like the idea!) - I was just thinking to close up the gap between motor & pump... wrap some strings around to get a measurement, measure the width and height of the pulley vee.... and buy a Gates type Vee belt & chuck it on

 

[25.4_mechanic]

I dunno where I'd source Fenner Link Belting (though I like the idea!) - I was just thinking to close up the gap between motor & pump... wrap some strings around to get a measurement, measure the width and height of the pulley vee.... and buy a Gates type Vee belt & chuck it on

This is also how I do it when both pulleys are openly accessible.

But in the past I have already ordered incorrectly when my measuring cord has e.g. run in the bottom of the V-groove and the supplier specifies the length of his belts in the shoulder of the V-groove.

This is not a problem, you just have to know and pay attention to it, there is also a formula shoulder-centre-bottom-ratio which I don't have at hand right now -
but the vendors should know all about it .... good luck!


Carsten

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