Draughtproofing

[dan.taylor.1]

Uni-t do a usb thermal camera that plugs I to your phone, can be had from Ali express etc.

 

[Onoff]

Google "plasterboard tent".

Don't need to. I know very well the meaning and have one anyway.

I'm over on Buildhub (formerly Ebuild). Wish sometimes I'd never found the bloody place, ignorance was bliss!

I've visited one of the lads there and his build that exceeded Passiv standards. Did most of the detailing himself and it shows. I can't tell you how much it depressed me. I've a standing invite too to go and see a guy's DIY ewi install.

SWMBO doesn't get it. Just complains it's cold or that that I'd take too long to do anything. It's always we'll get <insert any current kid, family issue here> out of the way then maybe we'll do something. Most of the time she's sat on her ar5e watching telly looking like a bag lady. Sorry to air my woes but I work too bloody hard to continually put up with this ****. Bottom line is it takes two. Shell happily ***** £50 on a takeaway whereas I think how much insulation it'd buy.

Back on it this morning but not really getting anywhere.

If I line this reveal with insulated pb only to rip it out later it'll be a waste if time and money imo. Pondering where to go with it. The board that came off was 5/8" chipboard! Probably a better insulator than if I put straight pb on. Maybe glue a dpm sheet on then put the chipboard back?

 

[Onoff]

You could if SWMBO argues, buy static caravan, knock house down, and build a new passive one……if she keeps arguing just leave her in the caravan.

Too late. Destined to die in poverty, cold and eaten by rats.

You think I'm kidding?

 

[gaz1]

If I line this reveal with insulated pb only to rip it out later it'll be a waste if time and money imo. Pondering where to go with it. The board that came off was 5/8" chipboard! Probably a better insulator than if I put straight pb on. Maybe glue a dpm sheet on then put the chipboard back?

1" insulation cut into an angle wide to nothing

plasterboard over it

gripfill them on

 

[Onoff]

1" insulation cut into an angle wide to nothing

plasterboard over it

gripfill them on

I've some 25mm Celotex here but seems a waste tbh. I've only done the sill and one side. I really need I guess to do the other side and soffit.

Only then line with Celotex an pb over.

Sound like a plan?

 

[dan treg]

ideally you want to simulate a cavity closer ie celotex or polystyrene to avoid cold bridging effect

 

[gaz1]

I've some 25mm Celotex here but seems a waste tbh. I've only done the sill and one side. I really need I guess to do the other side and soffit.

Only then line with Celotex an pb over.

Sound like a plan?

unless your doing the front of the wall its a little pointless if you just squared the windows edges instead of sloping them

to angle them hives them a beter corner to join to the original wall edge or in your case the new plasterboard

 

[Gareth J]

Don't need to. I know very well the meaning and have one anyway.

I'm over on Buildhub (formerly Ebuild). Wish sometimes I'd never found the bloody place, ignorance was bliss!

I've visited one of the lads there and his build that exceeded Passiv standards. Did most of the detailing himself and it shows. I can't tell you how much it depressed me. I've a standing invite too to go and see a guy's DIY ewi install.

SWMBO doesn't get it. Just complains it's cold or that that I'd take too long to do anything. It's always we'll get <insert any current kid, family issue here> out of the way then maybe we'll do something. Most of the time she's sat on her ar5e watching telly looking like a bag lady. Sorry to air my woes but I work too bloody hard to continually put up with this ****. Bottom line is it takes two. Shell happily ***** £50 on a takeaway whereas I think how much insulation it'd buy.

Back on it this morning but not really getting anywhere.

View attachment 340109

If I line this reveal with insulated pb only to rip it out later it'll be a waste if time and money imo. Pondering where to go with it. The board that came off was 5/8" chipboard! Probably a better insulator than if I put straight pb on. Maybe glue a dpm sheet on then put the chipboard back?

Sorry, the Googling suggestion wasn't aimed at you but, unless I read it wrong, the suggestion to put sheets of insulated pb over a ventiated cavity behind.

Regarding your current window I'm sure it's a tough decision figuring how perfect a job to do when there are other, pressing jobs that will potentially save more for less expended time/money elsewhere.

Personally, I'd seal the gaps like you've done, and, if you have some offcuts of insulation/insulated pb, stick that on the reveals. You can cut down thicker sheets of cellotex if you have bits of that laying around. For the sill, maybe a sill of cellotex capped by a bit of plastic facia board capping. Not the nicest but potentially cheap and effective.

 

[gaz1]

Sorry, but this isn't good advice. Insulated plasterboard can help add a useful extra layer of insulation on top of existing insulation but if you leave it venting behind it, it'll be essentially the ONLY layer of insulation, not to mention have naff all thermal mass. At 25, 50 or whatever mm of foam, that'll probably be an improvement on the current situation, but it shouldn't be the goal. Goal should be to get the inside skin sealed so that it, and whatever insulation in the cavity can start working, then add more insulation wherever most appropriate. In this case, my gut feeling would be blown EPS followed by ideall EWI or, potentially a careful layer of IWI.

Google "plasterboard tent". Insulated plasterboard will be an improvement but the target should be a lot more insulation than you can get on the back of sheets of plasterboard.

whilst you are correct in the ops case unless theres damp around you would be wrong

the air would stop mold forming and fungus forming due to the damp conditions all hidden of coarse

if that gets hold then it can go through the whole house

wet rot/dry rot

 

[Gareth J]

whilst you are correct in the ops case unless theres damp around you would be wrong

the air would stop mold forming and fungus forming due to the damp conditions all hidden of coarse

if that gets hold then it can go through the whole house

wet rot/dry rot

View attachment 340114

Yes, venting behind insulated pb would help keep walls dry and stem mould spread. But as you say, this isn't what the op is dealing with - there's a (very) well vented cavity already. No need to make another!

But at any rate, it's a poor choice. If going to insulate internally and vent behind the insulation, you aught to be aiming for a minimum of 100 but really like 200mm of insulation. Not possible with insulated plasterboard.

If you're dealing with moisture/mould like the above photo, there's some reason/s why the walls are so wet they're supporting that mould growth. That needs fixing, rather than just hiding it behind a facade of a thin layer of insulation and plasterboard.

 

[voipio]

Uh, oh, just found buildhub!!

 

[Onoff]

Uh, oh, just found buildhub!!

Forget you ever found it mate, just run!

Saying that...its interesting some of the builds. Some folk with shed loads of cash where they've paid top dollar but the builder just doesn't grasp the passiv esque concept and has let them down on attention to detail.

The best builds imo are where the folks have taken on the task of air tightness in particular themselves. You get people asking if anyone has 400mm of air tightness tape just so they can finish off.

@Gone West on there took 8 years to go his build near Canterbury which is the one I went to visit. Unfortunately he removed his blog when he sold the house recently (fed up with the South East I think).

Jeremy Harris's blog is still available. Never a more tenacious chap have I known but in a good way. Took me a long time (and some little spats here and there) to appreciate him. He embodies attention to detail. He's not now on Buildhub and I think now spends his time on the Tesla forum.

The House at Mill Orchard – A self-build passive house adventure, from planning permission to completion, and beyond

 

[Onoff]

In for a penny...

Other side of the reveal off. Soffit down with a shower of rat poison sitting on top. Both the other reveal and soffit were 5/8" chipboard again:

Clearly had some foam put in but hit and miss and like a good 10mm gap at the top, hence still a gale blowing through.

 

[Onoff]

You want one of these
Razor Blade Scraper

Stanley Window Scraper

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Ta. This is my weapon of choice from the motor factors. Takes the same blades as your one I think?

Don't think I'll need it tbh as the 25mm of Celotex + pb, or insulated pb if I go that route, will cover where the trim came off.

Figuring now to do this "right" and the detail can stay even if I ever line the room. Only thing would be if I went for 3G windows and moved them inboard. SWMBO not keen as she prefers wide and deep.

 

[gaz1]

dont use it it will scratch the same as a chisel

 

[Gareth J]

One more thought, there's a tale that normal gun foam can't take much in the way of expansion as it goes brittle over time so, in places like this it's better to use something that stays more flexible in situations like this where expansion differences are inevitable. Sorry, can't remember where I read this or what the recommended product is though! I still just use ordinary foam though tbh

 

[Onoff]

One more thought, there's a tale that normal gun foam can't take much in the way of expansion as it goes brittle over time so, in places like this it's better to use something that stays more flexible in situations like this where expansion differences are inevitable. Sorry, can't remember where I read this or what the recommended product is though! I still just use ordinary foam though tbh

Yep, correct. Illbruck FM330 Pro Foam Air Seal is one. Retains a high degree of flexibility.

The best method bar none imo is Compriband when the windows go in. Illbruck do an equivalent tape I'm sure.

 

[Gareth J]

Thanks! Is it what you're using?

 

[Onoff]

Thanks! Is it what you're using?

No, ordinary stuff like you!

Maybe I should order a few cans of the posh stuff.

 

[Onoff]

In the bathroom I glued the blue DPM to render with spray contact adhesive. I can't quite remember (the white lines below), what I then used to stick the foam side of the 27mm Gyproc insulated pb. It was Sikaflex EBT or Soudal Low expansion foam or maybe a bit of both?

Whatever it's all tiled now and rock solid.

What would stick the foil side of Celotex to this:

Then what would stick plasterboard to the foil side of Celotex?

Thinking if I could get away with not having to spend £50 on an 8'x4' sheet of ready insulated pb.