Charging for work

[Screwdriver]

I need to make a part for a regular(ish) customer who runs a small tree surgery service. I just finished welding up a worn plate and now I need to manufacture a small part.

Not a big job and we can all see at a glance how to do it etc. but how do you work out a fair price?

Since I haven't stuck the Bridgeport together yet, it will mostly be hand worked so it would be unfair to charge "by the hour" for something that will take me ages to do. How does one go about working out a price for it? It is my drawing, he just told me what he was after and showed me a picture. He is also quite keen to just drop in on me and have something done "right now". This part is not urgent but I am thinking days rather than weeks.

For what it's worth, I am thinking £120 is a reasonable charge but that's no more than a guess. How do you work it out?

 

[h-dom]

Normally,

(Materials cost plus hourly rate x hours) plus 20%.

But if that's going to turn into thousands because you are going to be filing things for hours, whatever you feel comfortable taking.

 

[gordon stephenson]

I presume the block slides into the tube, Is the slot in the tube on both sides? Its not a part for a swiss watch, drill and angle grinder will do a good job with just a little file work,

 

[Screwdriver]

Yes thanks, I have enough machines for working the metal, angle grinder, lathe, drills, liniishing machine etc. so it really ought to be 3-4 hours tops. I do tend to faff about a fair bit tho so try to avoid hourly rates for anything. Almost bound to have suitable material lying around in my stock pile.

Apparently a spindle mounts though the (assumed) M10 threaded hole and the M8 is there to draw the block forwards for tensioning. I think it also pairs up with an existing similar mount on the other side. I will have to drll/tap the M10 once the spindle dimensions are confirmed.

Does £120 sound like a lot, not enough, taking the micky? "Feels" about right and though I would happily do it for less, my next fuel bill is likely to be astronomical so I need to be realistic in my pricing. Realistic as in, a fair price for good work that will keep the work coming in but not just because it's too cheap.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Your time. Your money. What else would you do in the time? And what would you get for that? Plus cost of replacing material and over heads.

 

[Arc Tourist]

Consider giving him a price as " not to exceed ", which will give you a buffer and if the price is less, its a win win situation with you both feeling happy.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

What's the material? Ali/steel/brass/plastic?

 

[Screwdriver]

All steel.

 

[zzr1200]

Yes thanks, I have enough machines for working the metal, angle grinder, lathe, drills, liniishing machine etc. so it really ought to be 3-4 hours tops. I do tend to faff about a fair bit tho so try to avoid hourly rates for anything. Almost bound to have suitable material lying around in my stock pile.

Apparently a spindle mounts though the (assumed) M10 threaded hole and the M8 is there to draw the block forwards for tensioning. I think it also pairs up with an existing similar mount on the other side. I will have to drll/tap the M10 once the spindle dimensions are confirmed.

Does £120 sound like a lot, not enough, taking the micky? "Feels" about right and though I would happily do it for less, my next fuel bill is likely to be astronomical so I need to be realistic in my pricing. Realistic as in, a fair price for good work that will keep the work coming in but not just because it's too cheap.

Can you find out the price of the manufacturers part?

It looks to me like 150mm of 40 x 40 box (4mm wall) and a bit of 30mm sq bar, almost scrap bin materials + your time.

£120-00 sounds a bit steep to me, hence compare price to a new part.

Of course unless new part is 3+ months wait and the customer wants it yesterday...then it's open house..

 

[Kram]

Charge what you think you can get away with and have a return customer.

I think £80 labour and £10 materials would be a good maximum for that, I'd hope to have it done in about an hour with my limited tools - of working time, not messing about with coffee, snacks and waiting for rain to stop.

To break it down - layout, 4 bandsaw cuts. 4 holes drilled, two slots ground. File one end of slot square, die grind the inner tube seam. Tap two holes, deburr. 16 steps to it and all are quick easy ones.

Apparently a spindle mounts though the (assumed) M10 threaded hole and the M8 is there to draw the block forwards for tensioning.

This raises an important point, what is it for? Tree surgeon, bodging up some kind of improvised chainsaw perhaps? There could be safety implications that could get you into trouble if his design kills him.

 

[Barking Mat]

My current thoughts on accepting and quoting for private work.

Do I even want to do this ? How much hassle, and prep time, setting up ?

Followed by how much would someone else charge to make this....

Producing one off pieces, takes time.

 

[Johnnybravo]

That’s worth about £60 max.
Hours Labour and a tenner for material

 

[8ob]

A lot of tensioners like that on chippers. greenmech one below.

 

[Johnnybravo]

Charge what you think you can get away with and have a return customer.

I think £80 labour and £10 materials would be a good maximum for that, I'd hope to have it done in about an hour with my limited tools - of working time, not messing about with coffee, snacks and waiting for rain to stop.

To break it down - layout, 4 bandsaw cuts. 4 holes drilled, two slots ground. File one end of slot square, die grind the inner tube seam. Tap two holes, deburr. 16 steps to it and all are quick easy ones.

This raises an important point, what is it for? Tree surgeon, bodging up some kind of improvised chainsaw perhaps? There could be safety implications that could get you into trouble if his design kills him.

£80 hourly rate? GLWTS…..

 

[Screwdriver]

Thanks for the comments chaps, I will drop the price accordingly, assuming no unforeseen issues or last minute changes etc.

This raises an important point, what is it for? Tree surgeon, bodging up some kind of improvised chainsaw perhaps? There could be safety implications that could get you into trouble if his design kills him.

This is the same chap I fixed up a bent arbor for, he's built his own stump grinder before so he know's what's what. I assume it is for some chipper he's fixing up, I just filled a worn plate with a bit of weld. There's no paperwork on this, no invoice, he never negotiates. Just "do this" and "how much". If I get it right he comes back, if I don't he won't...

£80 sounds good to me. It's less about one particular job than it is about how to price stuff up. If I knew what other people were charging I'd have a firmer grasp on what people might expect for work.

 

[Kram]

Can I change my reply? I think @Johnnybravo has it right, its under an hours work so £40-60 is more realisitic, £80 is taking the **** a bit - you'd have a difficult time getting me to pay more than £20 unless it required tools/skills I dont have.

 

[Hitch]

Charging for a faffing factor isn't really fair.

I tell a lot of the young lads at work- don't take on private little jobs, unless you are set up for it, and it's easy, or you are particularly good at said particular job.
If you don't know how long it will take, and not sure what you're doing, probably best you don't do it.

That perhaps doesn't strictly apply you yourself, but good general advise.
I've lost count of the number of times I've ended up helping other people on homers they're struggling with over the years.

Simplify it... drill each end, cut between with a part worn cutting disc, deburr, cut and drill 2 holes in a bit of square bar... half an hour..

Materials, will you need to source or do you stock...

Think about its intended use, does it need to be milled flat and perfectly square, or is a slider that will be out in the rain, greased, beat about- in which case, 120 is expensive... for a half hour job that can be done with minimal tools. Should it however need to be milled dead flat and accurate, to 0.1mm with polished edges then it's cheap.

Some places will have a minimum charge of a couple of hours, to cover admin costs, etc. Others, will work off the cuff, and send a quick invoice. Depends what sort of business you run really. Both have their advantages.

I'd be pretty upset if someone gave me that and a bill for £120.

 

[Gritineye]

Charging for a faffing factor isn't really fair.

I tell a lot of the young lads at work- don't take on private little jobs, unless you are set up for it, and it's easy, or you are particularly good at said particular job.
If you don't know how long it will take, and not sure what you're doing, probably best you don't do it.

Very good advise there. Not quite the same, but years ago I stupidly took on a job that wasn't my trade but it looked easy, when the bills came in I'd made £20 for 40 hrs work!

 

[Screwdriver]

Can I change my reply? I think @Johnnybravo has it right, its under an hours work so £40-60 is more realisitic, £80 is taking the **** a bit - you'd have a difficult time getting me to pay more than £20 unless it required tools/skills I dont have.

Careful now. If you're saying you'd do it for £20 I might take you up on it.

I get repeat business but not a lot of it. My "clients" can drop in on me at a moments notice and I'll pretty much make anything. I used to do this by being way too cheap especially if that happens with more complex jobs and the spec changes half way through. Interesting idea though to see if such a thing is an off the shelf item. I somehow doubt it though you could probably rob it off a scrap item.

 

[Screwdriver]

Very good advise there. Not quite the same, but years ago I stupidly took on a job that wasn't my trade but it looked easy, when the bills came in I'd made £20 for 40 hrs work!

Yeah, been there done that...