Anvil stand: welding-on legs.

[Debs.]

I`m making a stand for my (new-to-me) 100 Kg. anvil; I have to hand, a pc. of 35mm. thick steel plate (approx. 300mm. x 450mm.) will be cutting and welding-on four legs made from 100mm. x 10mm. equal-angle and plan on using 4, 125mm. x 10mm. plate 'squares' to spread the load as 'feet'.

Not having welded to such thick-plate before; I wonder the best way to weld the underside of the 35mm. plate to the tops of the 100mm. steel-angle legs: should I pre-heat?.... prepare the legs with 'V`s'?.....or plain fillet all `round?

I have 2.5mm. and 3.2mm. 6013`s; no shortage of amps. and have a propane torch.

Thanks in advance, Debs.

 

[Bsmith]

A block of wood is best for an anvil stand Debs with the grain running vertical, deadens the 'ring' and 'spring back'. The top of the anvil should be the same height as your clenched fist when standing with your arm at your side. Promise.

 

[Shiro]

Hello Debs

Try turning the Anvil over and welding a frame of angle iron that fits the bottom exactly, then you don’t need a thick plate for the Anvil to sit on. Three legs are often better that four, as they will self level to some extent. Anvil ring can be helped in a number of ways including bedding the Anvil on a layer of thick silicone placed in the angle iron, sticking a big magnet to the Anvil and wrapping some chain around the base.

Wooden bases are more traditional, but it’s harder to get close to the work as your feet can’t get under the Anvil as they can with a metal stand. That said, they work well, and don’t have to be a big solid stump. Large blocks of wood stacked up and then bolted together will work fine too.

Try searching http://www.iforgeiron.com/ for plenty of ideas.

Steve.

 

[Douglas]

I'd tend to think about some low-hi's for the thick plate (7016/18s) funny rods if you've not used them before but dastardly strong. Bit of preheat on the thick stuff, enough to get rid of the sweat. I'd be confident with that. Oh and just a straight fillet weld. Two maybe three run fillet with a 3.25.

 

[Hitch]

The one at work sits on an angle frame, but there is a layer of 1" ply betwen the stand and anvil.

 

[brightspark]

A block of wood is best for an anvil stand Debs with the grain running vertical, deadens the 'ring' and 'spring back'. The top of the anvil should be the same height as your clenched fist when standing with your arm at your side. Promise.

a tree trunk cut with chainsaw fits the bill nicely why complicate things

 

[Bsmith]

a tree trunk cut with chainsaw fits the bill nicely why complicate things

I agree.

Must add that I had my block of wood under the anvil with the grain running horizontally at one time, but the anvil had too much spring back. Changed the wood to vertical grain like the blacksmith had that I served my apprent with, much better deader anvil.

 

[Debs.]

Thanks for the replies chaps.
I`ve decided to go with Brian and Brightspark`s end-grain wood stand suggestion......I`ve got an old, Ash bole-butt so will sharpen the chainsaw and give it a go; I just cut away everything that doesn`t look like and anvil stand, right?

Here`s the anvil: `just couldn`t resist giving it a clean and lick of black enamel......sad aren`t I!

 

[Bsmith]

Thanks for the replies chaps.
I`ve decided to go with Brian and Brightspark`s end-grain wood stand suggestion......I`ve got an old, Ash bole-butt so will sharpen the chainsaw and give it a go; I just cut away everything that doesn`t look like and anvil stand, right?

Way to go Debs. The anvil is just like mine (ehmm my grandads) only yours is in better condition. Mine had a hollow worn in the top so I ran some welds on and ground it flat again but the welding appears to be a bit softer than the original iron I suppose? And it marks easily, especially if I accidentally hit it with the hammer edge , does the job tho. I also extended the horn (tip) a little for bending smaller rings on.

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

Debs,
Make the stump slightly pyramid make the top end at least 8 inches bigger than the base of the anvil.
Base of the base is say 6 inches bigger than the top end
for you'll need wood up at the top to allow you to use anvil stakes to retain the anvil at each corner .

for stakes ... Think of a continental figure seven about 8 inches long out of square bar ,tapered to the point at the last two inches , work out the size of the top of the fig seven that goes over the toes , make four of them with a 3/4 inch over clip part .


Set the spike holes in the half moon bits of the anvil and turn the free ends of the spikes so they are under the toe and heel of the anvil ...gives you space to wellie them in and needs doing before mounting the anvil on the block .
Pre drill the holes ( auger out ?) to full depth at a diameter 1/8 " less than the bar .
Once the anvil is correctly set on the block , hammer in (red hot ) those spikes over the toes of the anvil.

Once it all cools after a few weeks rust starts for form on the spikes , they rust solid in place , I've never heard of them comming loose but a drop or two of water over them from above should sort things out over a week or so .

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

Thanks for the replies chaps.
I`ve decided to go with Brian and Brightspark`s end-grain wood stand suggestion......I`ve got an old, Ash bole-butt so will sharpen the chainsaw and give it a go; I just cut away everything that doesn`t look like and anvil stand, right?

Way to go Debs. The anvil is just like mine (ehmm my grandads) only yours is in better condition. Mine had a hollow worn in the top so I ran some welds on and ground it flat again but the welding appears to be a bit softer than the original iron I suppose? And it marks easily, especially if I accidentally hit it with the hammer edge , does the job tho. I also extended the horn (tip) a little for bending smaller rings on.

The weld is much softer than the wrought iron top that was welded by bright yellow on bright yellow metals and fused with a big hammer .

 

[Debs.]

Debs,
Make the stump slightly pyramid make the top end at least 8 inches bigger than the base of the anvil.
Base of the base is say 6 inches bigger than the top end
for you'll need wood up at the top to allow you to use anvil stakes to retain the anvil at each corner .

for stakes ... Think of a continental figure seven about 8 inches long out of square bar ,tapered to the point at the last two inches , work out the size of the top of the fig seven that goes over the toes , make four of them with a 3/4 inch over clip part .


Set the spike holes in the half moon bits of the anvil and turn the free ends of the spikes so they are under the toe and heel of the anvil ...gives you space to wellie them in and needs doing before mounting the anvil on the block .
Pre drill the holes ( auger out ?) to full depth at a diameter 1/8 " less than the bar .
Once the anvil is correctly set on the block , hammer in (red hot ) those spikes over the toes of the anvil.

Once it all cools after a few weeks rust starts for form on the spikes , they rust solid in place , I've never heard of them comming loose but a drop or two of water over them from above should sort things out over a week or so .

Thanks, that`s smashing advice, Pidgy......a perfect step-by-step guide for me.

Tuesday is forecast to be dry here, so will haul the old Ash-stump out from the wood shed and get all 'sculptural' with my old Stihl.....The stump`s plenty big enough to cut nicely down to a pyramidal shape of the sizes you mention.
Making the anvil spikes, will be a chance for me to get the gas torch/hearth out and use the anvil "in anger" for the first time (albeit, whilst it`s still on the floor)

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

Thanks, that`s smashing advice, Pidgy......a perfect step-by-step guide for me.

Tuesday is forecast to be dry here, so will haul the old Ash-stump out from the wood shed and get all 'sculptural' with my old Stihl.....The stump`s plenty big enough to cut nicely down to a pyramidal shape of the sizes you mention.
Making the anvil spikes, will be a chance for me to get the gas torch/hearth out and use the anvil "in anger" for the first time (albeit, whilst it`s still on the floor)

Ash ... a gert big diameter stump you say ? Remember that the Grain is to run top to bottom .

It took roughly 1 yr per inch of wood to naturally season when raised 6 " off the orchard floor & thatched roofed over in olden days , for making such things as cartwheel hubs and even then they had to have tyres /bands around them to stop them splitting..

So you may have to fab some 6 mm x 40 mm steel bandings for the top & bottom of the base and screw them on in place say 40 mm from top & bottom . Unseasoned ash will split down the grain and can be your undoing if it splits badly and the anvil falls over off the block & on to your legs or feet.

Cut the bands ,screw them in place then weld the edges

I turned a 10 inch ash log down that I grew and cut myself .
It had been cut for 4 years and stored in a massive cut log pile open to the elements , within 18 months of bringing the finished bedside lamp into the house it had split severely enough to make me use it on the log fire.

 

[brightspark]

i wouldnt even fasten it down its own weight will hold it . it will hardly fall over

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

i wouldnt even fasten it down its own weight will hold it . it will hardly fall over

Done much blacksmithing ????
They do come off the block sometimes ...Debs works alone so safety is a high priority..

 

[Bsmith]

i wouldnt even fasten it down its own weight will hold it . it will hardly fall over

Uhu, it will BS and will tip over if hitting on either end with a fore (sledge) hammer. Mine is fixed down with 4 pieces of 3/8 rod driven in 5/16" holes in the wood block, then the ends are bent over the anvil toes and I put a few tack welds to stop them moving.

 

[brightspark]

Uhu, it will BS and will tip over if hitting on either end with a fore (sledge) hammer. Mine is fixed down with 4 pieces of 3/8 rod driven in 5/16" holes in the wood block, then the ends are bent over the anvil toes and I put a few tack welds to stop them moving.

i take it u arent just making horse shoes then and reasonable fabrication im suprised u havent snapped it

 

[Bsmith]

i take it u arent just making horse shoes then and reasonable fabrication im suprised u havent snapped it

I never made a horseshoe in my life. I oftens used the anvil to straighten bent mild steel and punch shafts from pulleys etc. The blacksmith I used to work with had what he called a 'cold set' for cutting steel, it was like a heavy duty axe he held on the steel/iron and I had the job of whacking it with the 14 pound fore-hammer. The anvil is designed to withstand this kinda treatment although I did see one once that had the horn broken off it, dunno why it broke, probably crystalised iron due to old age.

Now how about you go and answer my question about the light switch BS? Its something you do know about

 

[runnach]

A couple of true anvil stories: while at our old campus one off my H&V apps asked if he could make a valentine card for his burd out of steel, now me not being one to stand in the way of true love gave permission for card to be made. Front of card was chalked out with a large heart shape (Awwwwwwwwwwe) only problem was, this lad cut out heart shape using plasma over top face of anvil, resulting with, semi heart shape gouged into top face. Not too worry tho, lad coughed up for hard facing rods to repair face, I then gave him a nail file to dress flush

We were only weeks in our new build, I was delivering practical O&A welding, my mate was next door delivering MMA welding, while my mate was giving a demo within screened off bay, there was one almighty BANG, I looked up to see apps running here there and every where. I immediately entered room to see one lad lifting anvil back on to its stand, turns out they were seeing who could lift anvil over their head this particular lad lost his balance, anvil of course fell heavily to the floor, to this day the contact indentation remains in concrete floor. The lad is now famous for being our first sending off and, expelled for a month..............

On a serious note, lads have this uncanny habit of wanting to see how far they can lift an anvil!!!

 

[madkayaker]

A couple of true anvil stories: while at our old campus one off my H&V apps asked if he could make a valentine card for his burd out of steel, now me not being one to stand in the way of true love gave permission for card to be made. Front of card was chalked out with a large heart shape (Awwwwwwwwwwe) only problem was, this lad cut out heart shape using plasma over top face of anvil, resulting with, semi heart shape gouged into top face. Not too worry tho, lad coughed up for hard facing rods to repair face, I then gave him a nail file to dress flush

We were only weeks in our new build, I was delivering practical O&A welding, my mate was next door delivering MMA welding, while my mate was giving a demo within screened off bay, there was one almighty BANG, I looked up to see apps running here there and every where. I immediately entered room to see one lad lifting anvil back on to its stand, turns out they were seeing who could lift anvil over their head this particular lad lost his balance, anvil of course fell heavily to the floor, to this day the contact indentation remains in concrete floor. The lad is now famous for being our first sending off and, expelled for a month..............

On a serious note, lads have this uncanny habit of wanting to see how far they can lift an anvil!!!

odvasly have not watched enough road runner cartoons