You could check continuity to a radiator or pipe , they "should" be earthed.I don't know but I know I don't have test cables long enough to reach the plug and the main earth in the supply box.![]()
Stu
You could check continuity to a radiator or pipe , they "should" be earthed.I don't know but I know I don't have test cables long enough to reach the plug and the main earth in the supply box.![]()
When I had a full new heating set up installed in 2008 in a fully compliant new ly rewired property the fitters for Willmore Wills ( Welsh government approved warmer home installers ) were adamant that earthing water pipes in an up to date correctly wired property were not required.. Being a disbeliever my wife & I ran individual earth wires during he night to all my nine rads , cross bonding the copper piping in the bathroom, airing cupboard & the kitchen as well as earthing the gas hob & bottled gas pipe supply & the stainless steel sink.You could check continuity to a radiator or pipe , they "should" be earthed.
Stu
When I had a full new heating set up installed in 2008 in a fully compliant new ly rewired property the fitters for Willmore Wills ( Welsh government approved warmer home installers ) were adamant that earthing water pipes in an up to date correctly wired property were not required.. Being a disbeliever my wife & I ran individual earth wires during he night to all my nine rads , cross bonding the copper piping in the bathroom, airing cupboard & the kitchen as well as earthing the gas hob & bottled gas pipe supply & the stainless steel sink.
bonded to earth ?isnt earthing them its cross bonding
When I had a full new heating set up installed in 2008 in a fully compliant new ly rewired property the fitters for Willmore Wills ( Welsh government approved warmer home installers ) were adamant that earthing water pipes in an up to date correctly wired property were not required.. Being a disbeliever my wife & I ran individual earth wires during he night to all my nine rads , cross bonding the copper piping in the bathroom, airing cupboard & the kitchen as well as earthing the gas hob & bottled gas pipe supply & the stainless steel sink.
You could check continuity to a radiator or pipe , they "should" be earthed.
Stu
And definitely added the potential for electrocutionNo, they "may" be connected to earth, not "should" be.
For example if they are fed with plastic pipes then they will not be connected to earth.
And definitely added the potential for electrocution
eventualy but its cross bonding internaly in the housebonded to earth ?
It's not an electricution risk , it's connected to ground, no potential for flow away from ground, why would it flow through you ? path of lest resistance which isn't going to be a human body.And definitely added the potential for electrocution
whatever powertool you are using or appliance if the eath wire becomes loose or disconected and a live fault occurs and your stood there holding it anything around you metalic that is earthed and you become the circuitIt's not an electricution risk , it's connected to ground, no potential for flow away from ground, why would it flow through you ? path of lest resistance which isn't going to be a human body.
And if it looses the connection to ground and they become live?It's not an electricution risk , it's connected to ground, no potential for flow away from ground, why would it flow through you ? path of lest resistance which isn't going to be a human body.
It's not an electricution risk , it's connected to ground, no potential for flow away from ground, why would it flow through you ? path of lest resistance which isn't going to be a human body.
not a radiator.whatever powertool you are using or appliance if the eath wire becomes loose or disconected and a live fault occurs and your stood there holding it anything around you metalic that is earthed and you become the circuitso its a very big risk ive had a fair few good belts because of it why do you think you use insulated tools and fibreglass stepladders . to reduce the risk
And if it looses the connection to ground and they become live?
Ss sinks are no longer earthed now either.
Absolutely most stupid wiring fault I ever came across was a brass snooker table light, controlled from coin box, I wasn't involved in any wiring
It was opening after a refit, stuff was still being taken out the back as punters came in the front, old guy stuck his 50p in the meter box, no light, I half heard the conversation, one of them pulled a chair over about to climb up to check bulb, wooaaa there, some of the trades were a bit suspect, got me tester, yup whole light live, numpty supposed electrician had put live straight onto earth point.
It's OK sparkies turned out not to be electrician, they delegated it to the decorator who was colour blind
Ever heard of maximum disconnection times?
It can take up to 5 seconds to blow a rewritable fuse or trip a beaker, if you're standing in a pool of water in the bathroom and touch the radiator just as a fault occurs you might become the best earth path and get a wack!
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It's not an electricution risk , it's connected to ground, no potential for flow away from ground, why would it flow through you ? path of lest resistance which isn't going to be a human body.
Under fault conditions earthed metalwork rises to anything up to the nominal voltage for the duration of the fault, in this case that will be 240V. This is the whole point of equipotential bonding, it maintains an equal potential.
It's unlikely that it will rise to the full nominal voltage, but it can happen.
Earthed metalwork doesn't magically stay at 0V, it obeys the laws of physics. Under direct fault conditions the only loads present are the resistances which make up the earth fault loop, the resistance of the live and earth paths all the way from the substation transformer to the fault.
So the resistance of the live and earth conductors form a potential divider and the voltage on the earth at the fault, and therfore all earthed metalwork within the installation will dictated by this.
Also electricity does not follow the path of least resistance, that is a myth, it divides between all available paths in proprotion to their resistance (if you wish to be pedantic it's impedance not resistance)
If electricity only followed the path of least resistance then switching on your kettle would cause all of the lights to go off!
Why can you touch the neutral conductor ?
What exactly are you asking here? Do you mean why can you touch a neutral conductor which is in operation without feeling anything noticeable?
If you have a TN supply (supplier provides an earth connection) then the neutral and earth are within a few volts of each other in normal conditions. So touching the neutral will only result in a potential difference of a couple of volts across your body, this cannot cause enough current to flow to be noticeable.
Under normal operating conditions you have a load connected between the live and neutral, this forms a 3 way potential divider between the live conductor, load and neutral conductor.
The live and neutral conductors have a very low resistance and the load has a higher resistance,so the majority of the voltage is dropped across the load and only a few volts are dropped across the conductors (This is also why voltage drop in cables occurs). In this situation the neutral will only ever be a few volts above earth, if at all.
However if a short circuit occurs between live and neutral then the same situation as the earth fault I described earlier will happen, the live and neutral form a potential divider and the neutral will effectively rise up to a higher voltage until the protective device clears the fault.
Assuming the live and neutral conductors have exactly the same resistance then the neutral will rise up to 1/2 of the supply voltage.
So under fault conditions you don't want to be touching the neutral either!
If you have a TT supply (your earth is via an earth rod not connected to the suppliers network) the there can be a greater potential difference between the neutral and earth. Occasionally this can be enough to cause a noticeable tingle if you touch neutral and earth at the same time, this is one of the reasons there are additional requirements for isolating the neutral in this type of supply.
I can't make your numbers add up , the highest I could get with a fairly reasonable 50m loop ring main is 34.5v
I hope my diagram is not to messy. I have drawn both halves of the ring for clarity.
Where am I going wrong ? I realise that the ballance of Ze would be higher for the Live conductor and less for the N+E (the earth shroud is quite large area) but I have just done them half and half as some would also be the transformer secondary and so I just used the 0.4 ohme for each leg.
Also I have only allowed for the return path using the 1.5mm2 earth in the cable, where we were talking about bonded pipes becoming live which would reduce the resistance and thus the voltage at this point and shift it back to the higher resistance parts of the circuit.
The calculations for current through wet and dry bodies is also with the best possible conduction to an earth point that isn't at the same potential as the earth point that you are currently touching.
dry 34.5v/10kohme=3.5mA
wet 34.5v/1kohme=34.5mA
View attachment 328289
Thanks for your input.
Stu