- Thread starter jimbo1962
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Ive used oxy acet to braze them in the past ,,, obviously they need washed out and filled with water or argon or you can land yourself in a lot of bother ,, unless its been empty for a lot of years ,,, if there is the faintest whiff of petrol be very very careful .
yep holes in them tend to do that ,, but no harm in mentioning it just incase
If it's only pin holes then I wouldn't braze it but use one of the 'Petseal' mixes that you pour in the tank and slosh around. I did a very pin holed Honda Dream tank a while back for someone and it worked very well. Do any external repairs with molecular metal or the like first. New 'Petseal' is even suitable for use with bioethanol added unleaded.
Well, in theory the t’s a good fix, but they do go wrong, and then you have problems.
I’d clean back to bare, ding around the pinholes, fill with braze. That’s just me.
Hi . I was asked to braze a bike petrol tank when I was an apprentice. Soaked it in soapy water for a week and it still went off!! nearly turned the tank inside out with my hair on fire 
. The problem is the petrol is in the rust. So if you are going to braze the holes play the torch very Slowly over the area at arms length
. The problem is the petrol is in the rust. So if you are going to braze the holes play the torch very Slowly over the area at arms length
CompoSimmonite
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I had pin holes under the badge on my old Kawasaki Z250C. Rather than braze I used tinning paste and lead loaded.
This is true - first a soak inside with phosphoric acid will shift the rust.Hi . I was asked to braze a bike petrol tank when I was an apprentice. Soaked it in soapy water for a week and it still went off!! nearly turned the tank inside out with my hair on fire
GraemeVW
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I did my vellcette tank recently, I drilled the pin holes enough to just countersink them, then just spot welded them with the mig.
Worked fine.
Again though, the tank had been empty 50 years and I had already removed all the rust.
I actually need to do it again, I missed one, only it's had fuel in it for the last 6 month's so I'm alot more sceptical.
It's on the top though, so might try something that doesn't involve heat.
I've heard way more horror stories about lining them than I have success stories. The failures always seem to be a few years later so I wonder how many of the successes turn into disaster later on.
The pin holes weren't rust though, they were in the seams half way up the tank as they are made in multiple pieces.
Worked fine.
Again though, the tank had been empty 50 years and I had already removed all the rust.
I actually need to do it again, I missed one, only it's had fuel in it for the last 6 month's so I'm alot more sceptical.
It's on the top though, so might try something that doesn't involve heat.
I've heard way more horror stories about lining them than I have success stories. The failures always seem to be a few years later so I wonder how many of the successes turn into disaster later on.
The pin holes weren't rust though, they were in the seams half way up the tank as they are made in multiple pieces.
doubleboost
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The bit you want is at 9 minutes
My Mate Bob is very good with solder
My Mate Bob is very good with solder
Soft solder was always the way pinholes were repaired. With a big soldering iron you don't need to get a flame anywhere near the tank, so why use a method which may blow your head off? Large patches are welded or occasionally brazed as you can purge the tank while you have a very big hole in it. Nowadays you can cheat with epoxy, which works fine. Those slosh sealants can and do start coming off and blocking fuel lines, I wouldn't use them.
GraemeVW
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Ah, that makes sense, just the explosion risk.
I guess the same applies to brazing.
Maybe I'll solder the pinhole in the top then.
brightspark
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if your brazing them its best done with oxyacetylene not just mapgas its best using localised heat . failing that you can soft solder the pinholes using a nice big copper soldering iron heated over the gas ring and tin it
LolBloody ethanol
brightspark
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