- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Kram
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- Sussex
What is that aluminium exhaust ducting like for durability? Seen it on amazon and Im looking for something for my lathe extraction vent. I imagine stainless flex would be better but cant see any available.
Sorted out my tig bits into one small box. Im unable to seperate the #6 glass cup from the collet body!
Nans chair stander got painted. Her chair is red so used the hammerite.
JMS1972
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- NW Leicestershire, UK
No idea on the ducting I've just popped it on today to see if does anything. Bet your nan is chuffed with her chair stander.
mtt.tr
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- Essex/Suffolk border
Where does the exhaust go?
JMS1972
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- NW Leicestershire, UK
4" hole in the wall, the inlet and exhaust come out the bottom of the heater and then outside.
Bit of rock wool closes up any gaps
blackolive (Ste)
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Fabbed and fitted new rear splashguards to the disco
Could you put together a tutorial of the bits you used if you get some time please...
JMS1972
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- NW Leicestershire, UK
That was a bit if a hacked mess.
The simple method (which I'll use for my third attempt!) Is buy one of these.
24/20-pin ATX Computer PC Power Supply Breakout Board Adapter Extension Module | eBay UK
The adapter board only plays the role of electric power extraction. Board Size: 69.2mm x 63mm. Easy and convenient to use.
www.ebay.co.uk
And one of these.
Mini Digital Voltmeter Ammeter - 100V 10A - Voltage Current Meter w/ LED Display | eBay
Display: 0.28" Red + Blue Dual LED Display. Working current: <20mA. Size :48x29x20 mm. Current: Range x 0.08%+Two decimal point. Red line (thick): IN+, current input. Refresh rate: 3hz. You get 1 of -.
www.ebay.co.uk
And wire up as per the diagram in the second advert.
Olderisbetter
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I got the roof beams on the "corridor" fitted 
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Washing up liquid and a fine needle ...eye first using long nose pliers down between the ring soap and glass every so often ?
Could you use the concertina alu extractor duct like wot Wickes sell a 500 mm 3 inch dia compressed length opens IIRC to just over a metre Product code: 167648
This is not quite what I'm talking about ..I got my ducting 8 yrs ago
KemppiFrog
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- Aquitaine
So, I Swiss client showed me a pic of a wooden door designed by a Vietnamese artist and could I use it for inspiration for a grill. Something to do with Lotus flowers. Well, they are mythical, so scratched my head and made this:
The verticals are round bar and the horizontals square. The 'Lotus' flowers are thin sheet. I made up a male mould from layered bits of plate, then faired it into a sort of egg shape. Then made a female shape, so in the press it produced a a sort of elongated cup. Trimmed off, three of them made the buds/petals, round a half dome formed over a ball hitch.
They really liked it, so asked for a bedroom suite in the same style:
Even the lights and a couple of chairs out of shot and the mirror.
Then got busy on the gates and garden railings (no pics)
The verticals are round bar and the horizontals square. The 'Lotus' flowers are thin sheet. I made up a male mould from layered bits of plate, then faired it into a sort of egg shape. Then made a female shape, so in the press it produced a a sort of elongated cup. Trimmed off, three of them made the buds/petals, round a half dome formed over a ball hitch.
They really liked it, so asked for a bedroom suite in the same style:
Even the lights and a couple of chairs out of shot and the mirror.
Then got busy on the gates and garden railings (no pics)
DennisCA
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- Finland
Made, well no, repaired (with help from the internet). My new to me oscilloscope had only one working channel, it is supposed to have two. It turned out to be a simple break in the solder joint behind the channel connector. Obvious once I had it apart.
But due to me not knowing all the tricks to taking the thing apart I dismantled it excessively. I learned by taking it apart that far, I could simply have removed a lid and left it mostly intact. The board with the connectors was inside a steel case that was soldered together, turns out I could have just desoldered the lid and gotten access to the board directly without removing it from the scope body. Instead I removed the whole case and also the attached control panel board.
Oscilloscope, the silver part on the bottom contains the board I wanted to inspect:
Control board with case. The board I want to access is inside the case, they are connected with a 3 pin band cable and I couldn't figure out how to get them out separately.
Well I opened up the case and found the bad solder joint:
I put everything back together and nothing worked as it should! I was really biting my nails and worrying about what had happened, my initial thought was I'd fried something, perhaps via ESD even though I was careful to ground myself and also use an ESD mat.
Fortunately someone tipped me that it could be that band cable I had been wrestling around, they where sensitive and can break inside without it being visible. A quick check wth a multimeter showed one of the three had indeed broken. I wondered if just one broken cable between the control panel and this board could cause that much trouble...
I put in a replacement cable and soldered it to the other board to test it (by now I also figured out I could access the board without removing it). And sure enough everything started working properly again!
I put the lid back on and left the cable I had moved. I am not sure if it will be an issue with the cable going there or not. The whole board is enclosed like this, even certain components are closed from each other in order to protect it from electromagnetic interference. But this shouldn't be transmitting the actual signal anywhere, it just connects the front panel to the signal board.
And now I got two working channels, here I am testing a 3khz sine wave I am feeding from my PCs headphone socket.
I also tried playing oscilloscope music via my PC (check youtube) and sure enough it worked, pretty cool that audio signals can make visuals.
But due to me not knowing all the tricks to taking the thing apart I dismantled it excessively. I learned by taking it apart that far, I could simply have removed a lid and left it mostly intact. The board with the connectors was inside a steel case that was soldered together, turns out I could have just desoldered the lid and gotten access to the board directly without removing it from the scope body. Instead I removed the whole case and also the attached control panel board.
Oscilloscope, the silver part on the bottom contains the board I wanted to inspect:
Control board with case. The board I want to access is inside the case, they are connected with a 3 pin band cable and I couldn't figure out how to get them out separately.
Well I opened up the case and found the bad solder joint:
I put everything back together and nothing worked as it should! I was really biting my nails and worrying about what had happened, my initial thought was I'd fried something, perhaps via ESD even though I was careful to ground myself and also use an ESD mat.
Fortunately someone tipped me that it could be that band cable I had been wrestling around, they where sensitive and can break inside without it being visible. A quick check wth a multimeter showed one of the three had indeed broken. I wondered if just one broken cable between the control panel and this board could cause that much trouble...
I put in a replacement cable and soldered it to the other board to test it (by now I also figured out I could access the board without removing it). And sure enough everything started working properly again!
I put the lid back on and left the cable I had moved. I am not sure if it will be an issue with the cable going there or not. The whole board is enclosed like this, even certain components are closed from each other in order to protect it from electromagnetic interference. But this shouldn't be transmitting the actual signal anywhere, it just connects the front panel to the signal board.
And now I got two working channels, here I am testing a 3khz sine wave I am feeding from my PCs headphone socket.
I also tried playing oscilloscope music via my PC (check youtube) and sure enough it worked, pretty cool that audio signals can make visuals.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Nice machine , when you sort things like that with no diagrams it can be a good feeling .
With luck you should be able to still locate test & service schedule sheets or even a complete hand book that gives voltage test points in each building block of the circuit boards somewhere on the internet .
With luck you should be able to still locate test & service schedule sheets or even a complete hand book that gives voltage test points in each building block of the circuit boards somewhere on the internet .
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
I was asked to make a life ring holder and to weld it onto the inside of the shelter deck. It would have taken me longer to load the welder to the van, unload at the boat, weld, reload and then unload back to the workshop so I decided just to make one up that could be bolted to the ribs of the shelter deck.
Drew it up in fusion.
Arranged for plasma.
Cut the parts and welded together.
Fitted with the life ring in place.
Drew it up in fusion.
Arranged for plasma.
Cut the parts and welded together.
Fitted with the life ring in place.
DennisCA
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- Finland
I have a manual and a service manual with schematics and pictures of the PCBs layouts, I am not that good at reading diagrams, but when I saw the amplitude change sometimes when I wiggled the BNC connector I figured it must be a bad solder joint.
