badabec
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Do you like hospital food?
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Trust me it's better than what madam dishes up. She uses the smoke alarms as her kitchen timer.
My old Mum had a plate on the wall said "Kissin don't last, cookin' do". Never realised the significance...
Dcal
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Today I made a tool for extracting the piston from some brake calipers.
They should have just blown out but they were stuck.
There is very little to get a hold of on the pistons and I painted them before refurbishing them of so wanted to be as easy on the paint as I could.
I split a bit of pipe, welded on a couple of lugs, then built up the edge with tig.
Then turned it down on the lathe.
Worked a treat.
God, I love having a lathe even if it only a wee one.
They should have just blown out but they were stuck.
There is very little to get a hold of on the pistons and I painted them before refurbishing them of so wanted to be as easy on the paint as I could.
I split a bit of pipe, welded on a couple of lugs, then built up the edge with tig.
Then turned it down on the lathe.
Worked a treat.
God, I love having a lathe even if it only a wee one.
Fraserb
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This Otto Benze Blow torch has had a journey.
I got it last year.
So I cleaned it up and moved it on, as a non working desk ornament.
It came back to me.
As it will cost to much to make it work.
Main fixed jet is blocked. £30 to £78 to get a replacement.
So.
It was converted into something useful.
I got it last year.
So I cleaned it up and moved it on, as a non working desk ornament.
It came back to me.
As it will cost to much to make it work.
Main fixed jet is blocked. £30 to £78 to get a replacement.
So.
It was converted into something useful.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Christ! Now I know It's that easy I'm bottling it!
On a serious note how much do you charge for these, pm me if you want. Might want a "tractor" for someone. Say A4 size.
Cheers
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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(Carried over from the handy 3D prints thread).
Well...my Makita battery to Duratool 3D adapter thingy works with some reservations.
I had to extend the internal wires. I didn't break anything to my knowledge and only soldered one wire at a time (more on that in a minute):
I crimped the extension wires on:
Then brought them up where the original battery connector fitted:
It's a bit of a game getting the wires up through the square holes. Doable but I might be able to make it easier by modding the print to have a couple of channels for the wires.
In getting them in I managed to crush the brown a bit. Just the insulation.
So I over sleeved both wires with some black and red heatshrink thus back to the original colours:
Helping hands...really help:
All in and soldered.
I would probably add a hexagonal hole if there's ever a MK3 to take an Allen key for changing the blade.
So onto testing...it works! The Makita battery (clone fits). It runs, the blade oscillates like it should and it cuts wood. It doesn't smell like it's going to burn out. Link to a little video clip:
But...what the video doesn't show is how much the thing vibrates. Hand hurtingly so. For some reason the speed control dial doesn't work and it appears to be either off or running at full pelt! As I said earlier I don't think I broke anything earlier when inside.
I was really hoping for a fit and forget win with this but it's at the moment another possible fail. I'll have to take it apart in a bit!
Well...my Makita battery to Duratool 3D adapter thingy works with some reservations.
I had to extend the internal wires. I didn't break anything to my knowledge and only soldered one wire at a time (more on that in a minute):
I crimped the extension wires on:
Then brought them up where the original battery connector fitted:
It's a bit of a game getting the wires up through the square holes. Doable but I might be able to make it easier by modding the print to have a couple of channels for the wires.
In getting them in I managed to crush the brown a bit. Just the insulation.
So I over sleeved both wires with some black and red heatshrink thus back to the original colours:
Helping hands...really help:
All in and soldered.
I would probably add a hexagonal hole if there's ever a MK3 to take an Allen key for changing the blade.
So onto testing...it works! The Makita battery (clone fits). It runs, the blade oscillates like it should and it cuts wood. It doesn't smell like it's going to burn out. Link to a little video clip:
But...what the video doesn't show is how much the thing vibrates. Hand hurtingly so. For some reason the speed control dial doesn't work and it appears to be either off or running at full pelt! As I said earlier I don't think I broke anything earlier when inside.
I was really hoping for a fit and forget win with this but it's at the moment another possible fail. I'll have to take it apart in a bit!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Diode on the little speed control PCB seems to have disintegrated.
Was it cracked beforehand, did it go pop when I put the battery on or when I first switched on was the dial already up to max??? I'll have to desolder it and see if it's still identifiable.
Can't see why a Makita 18V battery would kill it but a Duratool 18V one might not. An Ah thing maybe?
Was it cracked beforehand, did it go pop when I put the battery on or when I first switched on was the dial already up to max??? I'll have to desolder it and see if it's still identifiable.
Can't see why a Makita 18V battery would kill it but a Duratool 18V one might not. An Ah thing maybe?
slim_boy_fat
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Nice looking 3-D print you produced. 
[you might have warned us about the sound when you switched on, but we'll forgive you on account of the bird song 
]
[you might have warned us about the sound when you switched on, but we'll forgive you on account of the bird song ]
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I'm thinking it's time to consign this multi tool conversion to the bin (along with the failed Aldi Ferrex one) and rue the day I didn't put the £23 towards a proper Makita one! That plus the £7.95 I paid for the Ferrex...plus filament, etc. Let's not talk about the hours wasted...
The diode is kaput. Appears it was originally epoxied to the PCB maybe as half is still stuck on there.
All I can read on the half of the casing that came off is "...04 HER...":
On the plus side I practiced my CAD skills some more and spent some time with my lad 3D printing.
Thanks for accompanying me on this journey!
Edit: Diode appears to be an HER204, managed to pick a bit of the encapsulation off the diode with my nail.
Thinking then as the max forward current is 2A the 3A Makita battery might have been what killed it? May be it says what max Ah battery on the tool instructions. I never read them and now have to go hunting!
The diode is kaput. Appears it was originally epoxied to the PCB maybe as half is still stuck on there.
All I can read on the half of the casing that came off is "...04 HER...":
On the plus side I practiced my CAD skills some more and spent some time with my lad 3D printing.
Thanks for accompanying me on this journey!
Edit: Diode appears to be an HER204, managed to pick a bit of the encapsulation off the diode with my nail.
Thinking then as the max forward current is 2A the 3A Makita battery might have been what killed it? May be it says what max Ah battery on the tool instructions. I never read them and now have to go hunting!
Kram
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Diodes are easily replaced. Usually there for clamping motor back emf. If thats blown might need a new mosfet.
No massive problem I pulled the brass collar off and will press onto the other needle which is same dia and length, and closer to the final taper size.
Not quite a cockup (yet) but I had forgotten that the nozzle needs a tapered seat to match the needle. As I dont have a working lathe or anything suitable to cut taper, I thought I'd lap it using the needle and a spare. That didnt go to plan, die grinder collet is poo and it worked its way out and got me in the shoulder
No massive problem I pulled the brass collar off and will press onto the other needle which is same dia and length, and closer to the final taper size.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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From rusty to shiny, citric bath 3 days, and wire brushing.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Ta. The smallest 18V battery I have, Ah wise is 3Ah.
Amazed it still runs and at full whack with that diode gone. You'd half hope it'd fail safe. If I replace it with the same 2A forward voltage jobbie that'll blow too.
One of these maybe?
Diodes Inc Switching Diode, 6A 1000V, 2-Pin R 6 6A10-T | RS
Just looking for a bag to put all the bits in...
Kram
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If it runs only at full speed that does mean the mosfet is blown, they usually fail shorted. In other devices where the current is not limited by a motor, they can make a very big bang.
Diode spec your looking for reverse voltage and recovery time.
Mosfet any 20A+ N type should do. If you are buying one of the switches for your drill, you could take the old mosfet from that.
Diode spec your looking for reverse voltage and recovery time.
Mosfet any 20A+ N type should do. If you are buying one of the switches for your drill, you could take the old mosfet from that.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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This is a credit to some members here who donated, made and supplied the parts.
All I did was listen, supplied coffee, work shop and words.
I have a good friend, Dave who suffers from severe depression. So, a long time ago we found out "workshop time with TYA helps more than I can say.
It is not with out hic ups along the way.
But in my play pen we have a No telling or blaming rule.
This 2 speed Stanley Breast drill was given to me.
Complete, not rusted to the point of not working. But very stiff to operate. It was 50/50 to strip it down or try for a oil up.
But as it turns out I did neither.
So today Dave striped it down. This is the only days Decaff tea and coffee are allowed over the threshold.
Here you see it cooking up in water, washing powder. The amount of dirt, old oil and crud that is washed out is quiet shocking.
But you do need to wash and dry the parts well.
20 mm plate at 189degC will certainly help. You want it to stop steaming, but not hot enough to discolour any paint.
When it is still warm use wire wool with wax/.linseed oil mix to clean up, seal and polish up.
The wooden parts will drink it all up. Keep applying a small amount and work it well in.
This type of drill has small (2 -3mm) holes to add oil. Warm the oil up in hot water and let it drip in the holes. The work the moving parts and let the oil move its way along, refilling the oil holes as needed.
Drink coffee and listen.
Here you can see the item being oiled, worked and wax. It was still warm so the wax/oil mix came up well.
All done, all working and one Dave in a better place.
The cleaning did show something up.
Gold leaf on the makers name.
I am still looking into that, but I have a idea why.
All I did was listen, supplied coffee, work shop and words.
I have a good friend, Dave who suffers from severe depression. So, a long time ago we found out "workshop time with TYA helps more than I can say.
It is not with out hic ups along the way.
But in my play pen we have a No telling or blaming rule.
This 2 speed Stanley Breast drill was given to me.
Complete, not rusted to the point of not working. But very stiff to operate. It was 50/50 to strip it down or try for a oil up.
But as it turns out I did neither.
So today Dave striped it down. This is the only days Decaff tea and coffee are allowed over the threshold.
Here you see it cooking up in water, washing powder. The amount of dirt, old oil and crud that is washed out is quiet shocking.
But you do need to wash and dry the parts well.
20 mm plate at 189degC will certainly help. You want it to stop steaming, but not hot enough to discolour any paint.
When it is still warm use wire wool with wax/.linseed oil mix to clean up, seal and polish up.
The wooden parts will drink it all up. Keep applying a small amount and work it well in.
This type of drill has small (2 -3mm) holes to add oil. Warm the oil up in hot water and let it drip in the holes. The work the moving parts and let the oil move its way along, refilling the oil holes as needed.
Drink coffee and listen.
Here you can see the item being oiled, worked and wax. It was still warm so the wax/oil mix came up well.
All done, all working and one Dave in a better place.
The cleaning did show something up.
Gold leaf on the makers name.
I am still looking into that, but I have a idea why.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Dave was on a roll.
He was allowed to stay on, so we carried on.
Beam Balance. Badly restored with modern paint. The top coat was thick, rubbery, but tough.
The undercoats (5) were as bad.
It laughed at paint strippers, blow torch and a few good swear words.
So, old school thinking, plus more coffee, a keen ear, the career knows me well enough to be quiet at times like this.
Boil the thing up in caustic soda, this is when things went wonky. More of that later.
It works, but again needs to be washed and dried well.
Time for pie,chips battered sausages, scraps and a pair of baps.
After lunch, setting the counter weight, I know that lumps weighs in at 56.5Lb.
The weigh needed a few bits of lead shot hammered in.
Needs a bit of trimming for the 1lb to 10lb range.
It was waxed with my hard wax mix and it came up very well.
Even the original paint fill survived in places. I suspect it is lead based, so it laughed at out effort.
He was allowed to stay on, so we carried on.
Beam Balance. Badly restored with modern paint. The top coat was thick, rubbery, but tough.
The undercoats (5) were as bad.
It laughed at paint strippers, blow torch and a few good swear words.
So, old school thinking, plus more coffee, a keen ear, the career knows me well enough to be quiet at times like this.
Boil the thing up in caustic soda, this is when things went wonky. More of that later.
It works, but again needs to be washed and dried well.
Time for pie,chips battered sausages, scraps and a pair of baps.
After lunch, setting the counter weight, I know that lumps weighs in at 56.5Lb.
The weigh needed a few bits of lead shot hammered in.
Needs a bit of trimming for the 1lb to 10lb range.
It was waxed with my hard wax mix and it came up very well.
Even the original paint fill survived in places. I suspect it is lead based, so it laughed at out effort.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- Sevenoaks, UK
There's one TO92 device between the two capacitors:
It's sat in a bed of encapsulation resin or whatever.
On the underside:
Struggling to find a data sheet for it.
slim_boy_fat
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This is another thanks to a good member here.
Today, one of my primus stoves had a sulk. It had to happen with Dave. This can tip him, but a few good words. swop out the non working one for a working one, calm was returned. Plus tea, 2 sugars and condensed milk.
Were id the rest go?
This is the pump rod, but no cup washer.
No it is not in the pump body.
But the tools and the leather, plus cake we made this.
It is still damp. We cheated, made the leather soft in warm cooking oil, used a mould and dried it on a stove.
All good.
Today, one of my primus stoves had a sulk. It had to happen with Dave. This can tip him, but a few good words. swop out the non working one for a working one, calm was returned. Plus tea, 2 sugars and condensed milk.
Were id the rest go?
This is the pump rod, but no cup washer.
No it is not in the pump body.
But the tools and the leather, plus cake we made this.
It is still damp. We cheated, made the leather soft in warm cooking oil, used a mould and dried it on a stove.
All good.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Those recent post of mine could only be done with help from members here.
To them.
Thank you.
To them.
Thank you.
