Help for newbie welds appreciated

[drc38]

Hi,

I just wanted to say thanks for all the great advice this forum contains . I have used it in determining which welder to go for, setting up the welder and I am now laying my first runs on 2mm mild steel.

Here they are. It took me quite a while to get the 'bacon crackling' sound as for some reason the wire feed only needs to be at 2-3 out of 10. I started up near 6! The two welds at the bottom were at the same wire feed rate but the one in red is a higher power setting 5/8 while the other is at 4/8.




So here are my questions:
- are low wire feed speeds common on the Eland 175s? because I also noticed the wire feed seems to have a slight flat spot at low speeds

- is it better to run at the higher voltage and modify my technique to try and compensate or at the lower voltage?
- what modifications do I need to make for the scenarios above to produce better welds?

Any other tips appreciated.

 

[Sparkey]

I think the last weld (in the red box) looks best....wirespeed 2 or 3 power 5....
You also seem to have looooads of spatter with the previous welds? Is it a gasless welder?
What kinda metal are you using to practise on?
Other than that, i really think it looks good that last weld!
Try joining 2 bits together now!

edit: oooops! didn't notice you mentionned the 2mm mild steel! sorry!

 

[drc38]

The problem with the last weld is most of the weld build-up is on the other side of the plate

As the metal heated during the run the weld seemed to sink, you can see at the start the bead height is ok then it drops off as the weld progresses.

As for the splatter I am using a full bottle of Argoshield with a regulator that came with the welder. To be honest I think it may not be working so well. Would low gasflow produce the spatter?

 

[malcolm]

There does seem to be a lot of spatter, but the welds look clean - normally they would be brown if there was not enough gas flow. Unless you've washed them - there's something shiny on there like water.

You've got bits of wire mixed in with the spatter that would suggest the wire speed is still much too high. Try running the wire for 10s and measuring the length that's come out, then comparing it with the calculator so see if it's in the same ballpark. Those figures are on the low side, so will force you to keep the torch close to the work.

Would also explain why the beads look high, but you blow through with increased power.

 

[Litemoth]

Waste of time and effort m'boy.

Unless you want to write your name on stuff, try practicing by joining bits of metal together. After all, that's the definition and point of welding. You'll find the technique slightly different as metal gets 'absorbed' by the gap and the writing on flat plate has a totally different dynamic to 'welding' welding.

Butt some peices at 90 degrees to each other and try to get a good fillet going.....
Remember to push not pull and try to vary your travelling speed as well as your settings.

 

[malcolm]

You don't see any value in figuring out why there's so much spatter first then Litemoth?

I would have thought it would be easier to get that sort of thing sorted before adding the extra variable of joining two sheets.

 

[Sparkey]

Waste of time and effort m'boy.

Unless you want to write your name on stuff, try practicing by joining bits of metal together. After all, that's the definition and point of welding. You'll find the technique slightly different as metal gets 'absorbed' by the gap and the writing on flat plate has a totally different dynamic to 'welding' welding.

Butt some peices at 90 degrees to each other and try to get a good fillet going.....
Remember to push not pull and try to vary your travelling speed as well as your settings.

Unfortunately, m'boy....things aren't as easy as you describe them!
I agree with Malcolm, shoulden't he resolve his spatter problem first?
You must remember the guy is new to welding!

 

[drc38]

Thanks for the feedback. Sorted out the spatter, it was due to too high wire feed speeds. As soon as I got that sorted and tried on some new sheet the spatter went away. I will try some more butt welds and the push technique next and see how I get on with that.

Here is a pick of what the next set looked like.

 

[Sparkey]

Uhm....what do you mean try the push technique later? You should always push when you're mig welding....
But those welds look awesome! you're a natural!

 

[busa]

Uhm....what do you mean try the push technique later? You should always push when you're mig welding....
But those welds look awesome! you're a natural!

Pushing the torch produces a flatter weld bead with deeper penetration due to the tendency of the arc to 'preheat' the material ahead of the pool. When welding thin material it is often better to pull the torch, the bead is heavier but there is less heat input.

 

[drc38]

First real thing

Just thought I'd share my first actual thing... well a custom alternator bracket for my zetec engine.



On one side the weld has actually cut into the underlying metal , not sure why? torch angle perhaps as it was a bit tricky to get at?

 

[R BEADLE]

i find it easier pulling the torch on thin stuff , to mig weld properly i was taught that the torch should be in a neutral position , neither push or pull welding in the flat position . the only reason you angle the torch is purely for vision of the weld pool as it will be obstructed by the shroud . but there again my instructor could have been wrong .

 

[Litemoth]

Unfortunately, m'boy....things aren't as easy as you describe them!
I agree with Malcolm, shoulden't he resolve his spatter problem first?
You must remember the guy is new to welding!

If you look at his last (bottom) weld, the spatter issue had been resolved.

The art of adusting the feeds and speeds is part of learning to weld of course. This adjustment is a constant part of the welder's job - as the jobs and applications vary. I just don't see the point of knocking yourself out trying to draw lines on plate!!

DRC - Well corrected in the later picures by the way.

 

[Litemoth]

On the butt welds above, - not bad but there's an undercut and the weld is a bit uneven - train the arc more towards the lower surface to stop the undercut and alow the molten pool to 'melt into' the round bar.
I'd be tempted to up the power/feed and move faster on this gauge of steel.

 

[drc38]

Thanks Litemoth, would you use the same technique if it were two flat plates at 90deg (ie train arc on lower surface) or is it just because of the round which if you tilt the torch as you travel I guess you reduce the arc length as the round is closer to the torch than the plate?

 

[Litemoth]

Thanks Litemoth, would you use the same technique if it were two flat plates at 90deg (ie train arc on lower surface) or is it just because of the round which if you tilt the torch as you travel I guess you reduce the arc length as the round is closer to the torch than the plate?

I think both. You're effectively doing a mini 90 degree butt joint there so the same rules apply. From a weld strength point of view, it's good to keep the arc biased toward the lower element to get penetration otherwise the pool justs 'sits' on the metal with limited penetration. It'll come naturally after you've done a few yards

On joints with beefier steel, don't be afraid to crank it all up a bit - it's much easier than the thin stuff but use plenty of power, wire and move faster. As someone learning, don't be afraid to experiment use the top-end capacity of the machine then reduce the settings until it all clicks into place..

 

[Sparkey]

I just don't see the point of knocking yourself out trying to draw lines on plate!!

Ok, so i guess the first time you ever welded everything went great and you never needed to practise at all?
Unfortunately i didn't have the chance to read your original posts, sure would like to know what you had to say about me....
If you have any problems with my comments you can pm me and tell it to me personally!


Sorry drc to hijack your thread like this, i appologise...

 

[Tino]

If you look at his last (bottom) weld, the spatter issue had been resolved.

The art of adusting the feeds and speeds is part of learning to weld of course. This adjustment is a constant part of the welder's job - as the jobs and applications vary. I just don't see the point of knocking yourself out trying to draw lines on plate!!

DRC - Well corrected in the later picures by the way.

After more than 25 years of all kinds of welding I still 'draw lines on plate' to get my settings just how I want them. Better to get it right on some scrap before attacking the job. I use to many different welding sets, wire sizes, and materials to remember or even note down all the different permutations of amps & volts.