arther dailey
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Dont forget guys some brands of mig have a post flow similar to tig,some are adjustable time wise,kemmpi 200 I believe do, some are not.
- Thread starter stuvy
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Spot on, totally agree, totally random and stops flowing when it likes, I am having the same trouble with my r tech mig 180, faulty solenoid, they replaced it the next day, guess what , the replacement is faulty too
stuvy
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be careful criticising them on here, there regarded as Mecca for people that don’t know there rebranded cheapanese machines
matt1978
www.lorch.eu
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Whatever the post gas value is set at in time is how long the gas flows after the trigger has been released.
If it’s set at around 0.5 seconds which is pretty much the industry default, it should do that each and every time, if it changes, eg sometimes longer or sometimes not at all, there is an issue with the machine, most likely the Gas Solenoid.
To be fair based on some posts on more than one Facebook welding group there seems to be a spate of dodgy Gas Solenoids from them at the moment.
Usually on Mig the post gas is only adjusted when welding with much longer than standard torches (push pull) or when welding on CrNi’s
If it’s set at around 0.5 seconds which is pretty much the industry default, it should do that each and every time, if it changes, eg sometimes longer or sometimes not at all, there is an issue with the machine, most likely the Gas Solenoid.
To be fair based on some posts on more than one Facebook welding group there seems to be a spate of dodgy Gas Solenoids from them at the moment.
Usually on Mig the post gas is only adjusted when welding with much longer than standard torches (push pull) or when welding on CrNi’s
Thanks for that, I’m
Assuming it’s a dodgy batch too as the good reviews speak for themselves, but i would rather a reliable machine from the get go than the hassle of returning etc for the second time in a week, it’s put me way behind with work as I sold my welder last week to pay for this one
powderblast
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welding groups on facebook have you got the links or what they are called i will have to have a look at them?
Tangledfeet
Think outside, no box required.
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This is one group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1598010793548453
Can't recall whether it's a private group or one anyone on Facebook can view.
powderblast
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thanks just asked to join the group
If your a full time metal worker then why did you buy a modified Chinese import instead of going for a miller/lincoln/kemppi or a esab that would last you for many years..
Tbh its kind of what i expect from their mig welders.. Now don't get me wrong i own one of their plasma machines which is doing a mighty fine job but a mig welder is not something to try go cheap on if you serious about welding stuff together
Their plasma machines are actually pretty decent though.. but yeah i have to agree on their mig/tig machines.. its a lottery and it depends what kind of welding you need to do defo not for code work
stuvy
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was in the building when I started
stuvy
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Personally I own a Portamig but have used a variety of machines over the years
currently we have a sip 180 I’m not a fan of that either, the torch stays live too long
My favourite has been a 3 phase Lincoln, it even had a curtesy light for when you change the wire over. This was before a lot of others copied them
currently we have a sip 180 I’m not a fan of that either, the torch stays live too long
My favourite has been a 3 phase Lincoln, it even had a curtesy light for when you change the wire over. This was before a lot of others copied them
OK, I have the R-Tech 250 and so far no issues with it. I should add I am a hobby welder although I learned MMA almost 40 years back at Crane Fruehauf. I bought it off the back of various reviews and these were my initial thoughts.
Like the size and portability
Like the variable control for volts and wire speed. Especially for thin car body panels. Thick stuff is less picky about such things. Operator skill also helps when you really need one of those non-existent half-settings on a transformer based machine.
Like the customer service - they were very helpful when I called up to buy it. I bought everything to start from zero so a full kit.
Don't like the torch it came with. Replaced with a 4m Binzel MB36. Much better.
Don't like the quality of the casings etc. A few sharp edges and I don't think it would take much of a beating in a commercial environment.
Definitely don't like the crappy R-Tech helmet which I bought in the kit. Can't see Jack Schitt.
Not keen on the regulator which came with it. A bit noisy and less easy to control than a decent 2 stage reg.
Other welders I have used include a Lincoln and a Migatronic, both belonging to a mate who has a garage. Both 3 phase, both built like brick ****houses, both weigh more than a small planet and both weld very well. Ups and downs to both.
I do wonder about the statement above from Tally though
Why not for code work? The welds are fine and dandy, great penetration, good consistency and would easily do the job. Coded work is about the operator skill, not the machine so much. In the right hands (not mine) this machine looks more than capable of producing work to code standard. It's not as good doing overhead though, fine in the vertical up/down and horizontal, but again, that's more about my lack of skill.
For reference, This was all done with the R-Tech 250 and their 50 amp plasma. By an amateur. This is 8mm steel I-Beam welded to 10mm end plates. 1.0mm wire and about 220 amps. Note in image 2 the penetration is fine. The last 2 images show what a crappy operator can achieve in less than ideal circumstances. Outside, mediocre skill levels, no posh jigs or table set ups etc. Just clamps, squares and grinders with the beams supported on some trestles.
So is the machine really that bad? I personally don't think so, especially for the money. How much better would it have been with a 2 grand machine? That's debatable. How much better would it have been with a professional operator? That would be much more noticeable.
The one thing I would concede is that pretty much all inverter based machines are likely to be less long-lived than a well made transformer machine. Electronics are great, but hate abuse. Personally I can live with that for the benefits of portability and storage when not in use. A professional fab shop would not be too fussed about either of those things.
All the above is my personal experience, just to add balance. I'm no expert.
Like the size and portability
Like the variable control for volts and wire speed. Especially for thin car body panels. Thick stuff is less picky about such things. Operator skill also helps when you really need one of those non-existent half-settings on a transformer based machine.
Like the customer service - they were very helpful when I called up to buy it. I bought everything to start from zero so a full kit.
Don't like the torch it came with. Replaced with a 4m Binzel MB36. Much better.
Don't like the quality of the casings etc. A few sharp edges and I don't think it would take much of a beating in a commercial environment.
Definitely don't like the crappy R-Tech helmet which I bought in the kit. Can't see Jack Schitt.
Not keen on the regulator which came with it. A bit noisy and less easy to control than a decent 2 stage reg.
Other welders I have used include a Lincoln and a Migatronic, both belonging to a mate who has a garage. Both 3 phase, both built like brick ****houses, both weigh more than a small planet and both weld very well. Ups and downs to both.
I do wonder about the statement above from Tally though
Why not for code work? The welds are fine and dandy, great penetration, good consistency and would easily do the job. Coded work is about the operator skill, not the machine so much. In the right hands (not mine) this machine looks more than capable of producing work to code standard. It's not as good doing overhead though, fine in the vertical up/down and horizontal, but again, that's more about my lack of skill.
For reference, This was all done with the R-Tech 250 and their 50 amp plasma. By an amateur. This is 8mm steel I-Beam welded to 10mm end plates. 1.0mm wire and about 220 amps. Note in image 2 the penetration is fine. The last 2 images show what a crappy operator can achieve in less than ideal circumstances. Outside, mediocre skill levels, no posh jigs or table set ups etc. Just clamps, squares and grinders with the beams supported on some trestles.
So is the machine really that bad? I personally don't think so, especially for the money. How much better would it have been with a 2 grand machine? That's debatable. How much better would it have been with a professional operator? That would be much more noticeable.
The one thing I would concede is that pretty much all inverter based machines are likely to be less long-lived than a well made transformer machine. Electronics are great, but hate abuse. Personally I can live with that for the benefits of portability and storage when not in use. A professional fab shop would not be too fussed about either of those things.
All the above is my personal experience, just to add balance. I'm no expert.
atomant48
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At first I was thinking how’s he going to get that JCB out. Is that a big garage? Looks great. How do you go about something like that does the building inspector have to come and sign off the steelwork as you go or at the end like a regular build? Genuine questions, never contemplated managing or undertaking something like it myself.
Yeah, it came out easily enough with the forks down. Garage is 6 metres wide, 8 metres from front to back and 3 metres high at the sides, 4 metres in the middle.
Had full planning permission, building inspector was happy enough with photos (COVID rules). I had contemplated just using blocks but it meant double skin and roof trusses etc. The steel came my way for very little money as did about half the 140mm 12N blocks. Then I just made a traditional cut roof to get storage space for timber etc. This is how it looks at the mo.
For welding like that you should either be doing those runs on a spray or a duel shielded flux wire to guarantee full fusion.. Dip transfer can only punch so much and when welding something that is going to be standing above peoples heads for many years id like to be sure that its not going to fail years later etc.. That or using some 6010s with 7018s caps.. R tech do make reasonable welders for the hobbyists and the light fabricators but sometimes you have to invest in a machine that can do some heavy duty welds on single passes on some projects. But trust me there is a difference in the more expensive machines.. Just like when you move from a hobby grade clark welder to a r tech etc
Sometimes you need a machine that can has the ability for a coded welder in structural welding etc to put the welds down to conform to it.. Its about safety of the end user bud not your ability as a welder.
