Help forklift

[Screwdriver]

Datsun CEB01 everything appears to work and it was fine until suddenly it will not drive

cant find a manual for it (am on site) fuses look ok and buzz out, batteries good just does not move.

it is at a mates garage and I am just trying to help and getting nowhere...

 

[bourbon]

https://www.warehouseiq.com/nissan-b01-and-b02-forklift-parts-manual/
How good's your phone?

 

[Screwdriver]

https://www.warehouseiq.com/nissan-b01-and-b02-forklift-parts-manual/
How good's your phone?

That was the first site I found on the iPhone. Full of spam until you get to the bit where they want to charge $100...

 

[WorkshopChris]

Any click on turning key?
seat &or seatbelt microswitch?
Any signs of life at all?
Microswitch on handbrake &or F&R selector?

 

[bourbon]

Ahh. Looks like you have to search for Nissan instead of Datsun. I can't help anymore as the truck I drive is gas powered not battery. Have you checked the Anderson connectors? I know they can work loose. Seems obvious but you never know

 

[Screwdriver]

So I was just popping in to borrow a van for tomorrow and got caught up in this forklift issue. It's blocking the door.

I did get it "going" when all else failed by manually overriding a contactor. It worked fine for a while, could hear the motor buzzing and it went forwards. Then when the chap stuck it in reverse, it stopped working...

We knew the risks and even joked about taking out the wall next to it. Then it appears either I found the reverse contactor or the chap in the operator seat stuck it in reverse and it jumped back at speed into the wall! Incredibly the wall didn't collapse but its 20 metres of breeze block and it mos certainly moved. eek.

Anyhow, I am popping back tomorrow so would like to know if there is a "known" issue with contactors or most likely the relays or possibly an intermittent connection in some control board somewhere. My first thought was safety interlock gone somewhere but it seems to be a stuck relay or dodgy control, the batteries are good and the thing certainly has power....

A (free) manual would be handy, even if it's just how to drive the damned thing and what/where all the doohdads are.

 

[Screwdriver]

There are a few connectors dotted about but nothing special. I might pop back with some WD40 for those but I was in my Sunday best and just passing earlier. Tomorrow after I pick up the van and drop off the bike I can have a better crack at it.

 

[Screwdriver]

Any click on turning key?
seat &or seatbelt microswitch?
Any signs of life at all?
Microswitch on handbrake &or F&R selector?

I can hear the faintest click on the rear panel, possibly around a sealed box, a tiny click when the pedal is depressed. Tried tapping it to free a stuck relay but no joy.

When it's "on" and I manually shove on a contactor, sometimes there is a noticeable buzzing which comes on and stay on (presumably the motor has power) and everything operates as normal. Then just as suddenly, everything stops.

The hydraulics always work so it's just the big drive motor which is not receiving the correct control signal. The big meaty bits all appear to be "good".

 

[MattH]

I’ve got an electric Nissan and found a manual.

Here’s a link to it in Dropbox, it might be helpful:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gf3mhhoyxc64x73/AACyIo_vAZN-t6MV-PDvbJ8Ma?dl=0

 

[Screwdriver]

I’ve got an electric Nissan and found a manual.

Here’s a link to it in Dropbox, it might be helpful:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gf3mhhoyxc64x73/AACyIo_vAZN-t6MV-PDvbJ8Ma?dl=0

Thankythankyouthankyou!

that’s awesome. Tonights reading sorted cheers.

 

[Parm]

I shall be keeping an eye on the West London news

 

[mtt.tr]

Your comments sound like you don't know enough electrically to be messing about with this.
You might get it working by having a go, you might also do that by bypassing a safety measure without realising.
If something goes wrong and its a place of work its your head on the chopping block.

 

[Screwdriver]

Your comments sound like you don't know enough electrically to be messing about with this.
You might get it working by having a go, you might also do that by bypassing a safety measure without realising.
If something goes wrong and its a place of work its your head on the chopping block.

Electrically I'm on solid ground (so to speak) and yes, I could get myself into trouble but I am trying to help as a favour. Not quite sure how that translates into being sued, we may actually get to find out but I rate that as an extremely low probability unless we manage to actually take out a wall...

 

[eddie49]

How old is this forklift? With the name being "Datsun", I hope it is decades old, so no AC motor, no inverter, no electronics, just Contactors ?

 

[Screwdriver]

How old is this forklift? With the name being "Datsun", I hope it is decades old, so no AC motor, no inverter, no electronics, just Contactors ?

Don't know yet, I was planning on doing something else this morning. That fell through so I'll be tinkering with the forklift a bit later. The older the better if it is as I suspect, a control board issue or low volt relay cct.

 

[Screwdriver]

Update. Yes, I don't know what I am doing and yes I am still doing it anyway.

I got it going briefly too. Took the instrument cluster apart to get to the fwd/rev switch only to find an odd looking "inhibitor" unit under the dash. Hmm, that's a clue! I thought.

I had been probing the back of some of those connectors when it suddenly bust into life! Nudged it forwards a smidge, then as soon as I put it in reverse and drove it an inch, it died, never to return to life.

Apart from the obviously unfortunate naming of "the inhibitor" it was suspiciously new. The unit aka SCM3 does not appear on any of my diagrams and I suspect it may be some sort of "safety" device which prevents the forklift from moving(!). I rang the seller on behalf of the buyer and suddenly he's all "Oh yeah, we replaced that when it came in..."

So I downed tools and told the buyer to sort that out with the seller. My work here is done. Means I won't be mucking about in here:

48V DC is the least of my worries; with half a ton of lead acid batteries providing the amps and the certain knowledge that if I send it backwards in that cramped space, it will easily go through the wall and take me with it.

 

[WorkshopChris]

Most electric forklift problems providing the batteries are good normally come down to a control circuit fault. Very unusual for the motor or contactors to give problems.
Sound like you are well off leaving it to the seller to sort out.

 

[Screwdriver]

Most electric forklift problems providing the batteries are good normally come down to a control circuit fault. Very unusual for the motor or contactors to give problems.
Sound like you are well off leaving it to the seller to sort out.

I am yes but it also might have been a super simple fault which I could easily find so it was worth a look. I am happy to have narrowed it down to a particular system though. Pretty sure I could actually fix it too but there's some politics I want to keep out of and it would take ages. Lot of stuff to come out and the working environment is a disaster area. Plus it's right next to a wobbly wall

 

[Woody.v8]

Update. Yes, I don't know what I am doing and yes I am still doing it anyway.

I got it going briefly too. Took the instrument cluster apart to get to the fwd/rev switch only to find an odd looking "inhibitor" unit under the dash. Hmm, that's a clue! I thought.

I had been probing the back of some of those connectors when it suddenly bust into life! Nudged it forwards a smidge, then as soon as I put it in reverse and drove it an inch, it died, never to return to life.

Apart from the obviously unfortunate naming of "the inhibitor" it was suspiciously new. The unit aka SCM3 does not appear on any of my diagrams and I suspect it may be some sort of "safety" device which prevents the forklift from moving(!). I rang the seller on behalf of the buyer and suddenly he's all "Oh yeah, we replaced that when it came in..."

So I downed tools and told the buyer to sort that out with the seller. My work here is done. Means I won't be mucking about in here:

48V DC is the least of my worries; with half a ton of lead acid batteries providing the amps and the certain knowledge that if I send it backwards in that cramped space, it will easily go through the wall and take me with it.

Jack and block it up so it can't go anywhere during diagnosis, the worst can happen then is the wheels start turning mid air.

 

[scottmk1]

Jack and block it up so it can't go anywhere during diagnosis, the worst can happen then is the wheels start turning mid air.

Was just about to suggest that too