pressbrake1
Member
- Messages
- 5,748
- Location
- Essex
That thought has gone through my mind I will admitThe crossfeed screw on my m300 was shot. Replaced it with a ballscrew and nut, cheep as chips of eblag. Zero backlash now
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
pressbrake1
Member
- Messages
- 5,748
- Location
- Essex
Before it became trendy it was a £7.75 ph job back in the late nineties.Glad I knocked on the head to be s coach builder
I reckon the only man to make real money from it is the worlds only linear shaper RK and his expensive coarses.
I notice Moore style scraping is now cool, that’s how we was taught back then for finishing and it wasn’t called Moore style
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 20,338
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- Going Away.
Nice WW1 era MOD shoe last or cobblers last.
WD department stamp and a date of 1917.
A nice bit of history. It is going to be used as a door stop.
I will be honest, it is not the one I was after, but was out bided. The shop owner was honest, beside I like the shop was going to get a better price.
After de-rusting and a few coats of paint. All was looking good.
But.
I dropped the last, all but snapping the boot horn off. It was hanging on by small part.
Unlike The Hitch Hikers guide to the Universe.
Panic.
Clamped to a metal plate, the damaged horn was clamped and wedged into place. Sorry not images as the need to fix was more urgent.
Using a Dremel I grooved the break from the underside. Laid in small cuts of brazing wire in flux paste.
The repair went very well and the braze did flow very well. Then I used the flame to warm the rest of the last. Ok I lost the paint I applied.
The horn after cleaning up, the repair is just visible. Plus a re paint.
Finally, some gold size.
jordhandson
Member
- Messages
- 1,444
- Location
- Dorset
Popped over our local agri engineering place yesterday only for a small piece to make some vice clamps ended up with 700mm of 60 x 60 steel bar out of the scrap bin I only had a couple of quid on me so took a chance and asked how much the reply, a fiver beaut I didn't try and haggle. Today I had a quiet day and made a couple of vice clamps nothing special but pleased with them this afternoon I started kitting out my van ready for the summer that was more difficult as no straight edges slow progress, but saving the cash. back on it tomorrow I think we got rain coming sop may have to get the van in, all cosy.
Cheers
Cheers
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,477
- Location
- New Zealand
Raglan's a world away place.
The photos on the front page are The Buller and Wairoa rivers
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 20,338
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- Going Away.
Yesterday I got this Ever Ready Space Beam Torch.
It didn't work.
The weak point on this range was if you dropped it, the lamp filament would break.
A quick test, not the lamp.
But I I have another Space beam. So it was a case of swopping bits I needed to test with know good ones..
Traced it down to the twin core cable had gone open circuit. It is the old fashion clear coated bell cable. I have some of that.
So.
Yes, there is a pen. The sad fact the adapter to hold 4 D cells is a fraction too short. The original battery is a 6volt 4R25.
Here are my 2 space beams fully working.
It didn't work.
The weak point on this range was if you dropped it, the lamp filament would break.
A quick test, not the lamp.
But I I have another Space beam. So it was a case of swopping bits I needed to test with know good ones..
Traced it down to the twin core cable had gone open circuit. It is the old fashion clear coated bell cable. I have some of that.
So.
Yes, there is a pen. The sad fact the adapter to hold 4 D cells is a fraction too short. The original battery is a 6volt 4R25.
Here are my 2 space beams fully working.
jordhandson
Member
- Messages
- 1,444
- Location
- Dorset
Wow big or what how times have changed and I bet the price of batteries. nice
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 20,338
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- Going Away.
Yep pretty big, but last longer than 4 x D cells. The battery is found in Orange road side flashing lights, reference only.
But I have an adapter, on the left to replace the 4R25
This is old style clear insulated bell cable. I have no idea how old it is, it was old when my father had it.
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,363
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
the gearbox is on the way out on my van
its whining and sounds like a bearing has had it . just got a second hand one guaranteed for £175 get the local garage to fit it and get a new clutch and thrust bearing put in at same timethe gearbox is on the way out on my van
Rwd transit clutch and gearbox, cracking job about 2hrs.
Fwd awkward as sin about 3 1/2hrs with skinned knuckles.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,853
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/rust-removal-on-thin-old-steel-plate.89267/
With reference to the above link.
The French Carriage Lamps. I have some history. The front one is from 1810 to 1840, the rear is from 1790 at the latest.
The tallow candle still worked, but it did have an order.
The rear was in a weak state, the rivets were loose.
So being reluctant to use anything too harsh it was de-rusted.
The tape you can see is acid prove tape to save the brass on the screw threads and base. The rust was converted to black oxide. Then using a copper scraper. Bit of copper pipe flattened, the flakes were gently removed. Then painted.
Gloss black enamel. Brushed finished, the undercoats were rattle can.
Yes, that's the tallow candle.
You can see how time was not kind. Again rivets loose and the brass ring fell off.
Pulled the hinge pin. I used pipe freezer spray and penetrating fluid and it eased out. Time was my friend. Dremal wire brush was used to clean the steel back and the lead solder. The glass slipped out.
Using this @rtcosic I re-attached the ring, using as much of the original lead solder as possible. I only need a few dads of modern solder to complete the repair.
De-rusted.
Not 100% happy with the finish. But the rust was converted and a lot of the loose flakes did come off with the wire wool.
Painted and finished.
The rivets were hammer tight on both after the rust was removed. The dolly was a just 13mm re=bar bent to fit. The rivets were very soft and it took a few light taps to set them.
I did not go over board in straightening the metals, just enough to fix and allow the units to be used. It is, again, their history.
In "flame", one tallow and one modern candle.
The brass on them both, like my French blow torch, did not shine well at all.
I wonder if there is a difference in the ratios they use in the mix of zinc and copper.
With reference to the above link.
The French Carriage Lamps. I have some history. The front one is from 1810 to 1840, the rear is from 1790 at the latest.
The tallow candle still worked, but it did have an order.
The rear was in a weak state, the rivets were loose.
So being reluctant to use anything too harsh it was de-rusted.
The tape you can see is acid prove tape to save the brass on the screw threads and base. The rust was converted to black oxide. Then using a copper scraper. Bit of copper pipe flattened, the flakes were gently removed. Then painted.
Gloss black enamel. Brushed finished, the undercoats were rattle can.
Yes, that's the tallow candle.
You can see how time was not kind. Again rivets loose and the brass ring fell off.
Pulled the hinge pin. I used pipe freezer spray and penetrating fluid and it eased out. Time was my friend. Dremal wire brush was used to clean the steel back and the lead solder. The glass slipped out.
Using this @rtcosic I re-attached the ring, using as much of the original lead solder as possible. I only need a few dads of modern solder to complete the repair.
De-rusted.
Not 100% happy with the finish. But the rust was converted and a lot of the loose flakes did come off with the wire wool.
Painted and finished.
The rivets were hammer tight on both after the rust was removed. The dolly was a just 13mm re=bar bent to fit. The rivets were very soft and it took a few light taps to set them.
I did not go over board in straightening the metals, just enough to fix and allow the units to be used. It is, again, their history.
In "flame", one tallow and one modern candle.
The brass on them both, like my French blow torch, did not shine well at all.
I wonder if there is a difference in the ratios they use in the mix of zinc and copper.
miggie weld
Member
- Messages
- 52
- Location
- UK Norfolk
was just messing around and made this for the garden.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
Not today, but finished today.
My £20 Catch Hammer.
Loose head. shaft split and some worm. A Dead tool. But after spending £20 it had to be reborn.
Head dressed and the burs removed. Heated to a cherry red all over and quenched in old engine oil.
Then it was sanded clean, then the hammer pein was heated to "Blue" and quenched into sunflower oil. The "Cross Pein" was heated to a "Straw shade" and quenched into cold water. I wanted the Hammer end to get oil in as it was pitted and I wanted oil into the pits.
A salvaged shaft, odd wood here. It is heart of hickory. Heavy for the size and very hard.
Finished.
The head was heated until "spit bubbled" and driven onto the shaft. Hickory wedge driven in.
The shaft was finished on bee's wax and buffed with a old cloth.
My £20 Catch Hammer.
Loose head. shaft split and some worm. A Dead tool. But after spending £20 it had to be reborn.
Head dressed and the burs removed. Heated to a cherry red all over and quenched in old engine oil.
Then it was sanded clean, then the hammer pein was heated to "Blue" and quenched into sunflower oil. The "Cross Pein" was heated to a "Straw shade" and quenched into cold water. I wanted the Hammer end to get oil in as it was pitted and I wanted oil into the pits.
A salvaged shaft, odd wood here. It is heart of hickory. Heavy for the size and very hard.
Finished.
The head was heated until "spit bubbled" and driven onto the shaft. Hickory wedge driven in.
The shaft was finished on bee's wax and buffed with a old cloth.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,788
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Got the back section of the table welded up and then lifted onto the boat and the hinges welded.
Started making the rear supports.
The hauler plate which I cut on the plasma yesterday was partially fitted and the davit put in place so that I can work out where the roller will be positioned etc.
Skipper has been doing a grand job of fitting the instruments.
and for @Luke a pic of the way they do the table legs, the angle is screwed and stuck down with secoflex or something like that, After that is done they will then bond over the top with a few layers of glass.
Started making the rear supports.
The hauler plate which I cut on the plasma yesterday was partially fitted and the davit put in place so that I can work out where the roller will be positioned etc.
Skipper has been doing a grand job of fitting the instruments.
and for @Luke a pic of the way they do the table legs, the angle is screwed and stuck down with secoflex or something like that, After that is done they will then bond over the top with a few layers of glass.
