chris pruteanu
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Looks very good, love the progress you make!
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brewdexta
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I made a bit more progress last night and early this morning. I got up at sparrow-fart and got stuck in then had another 30 mins at lunch time. I got all the few remaining tenons fitted and dry assembled the frame.
Everything fits the way it should, I have couple of shoulders that need a little bit of a shave but all the joints seem good, nice and tight but can be pulled apart, only a little mallet persuasion needed.
Next was to mount the vice chop. This is still oversized and not shaped so if I make any dings then this will be removed later when I shape it. First drill the holes for the Benchcrafted Criss-cross. This keeps the leg and chop almost parallel as the vice is wound in and out. Setting out the leg for drilling.
It's American kit, so a 3/8" or 9.5mm drill needed.
I could only find a 9mm drill so reamed it out to 3/8"
I'll find 3/8" drills all day long now I've done it. I did the chop as well. The holes have got to line up exactly either side of the big mortice so the hinge pin for the top of the criss-cross can fit. And they do. I haven't driven them home fully yet as I need to take them out and cut the chop to shape and sand it all.
Then mount the leg, chop and criss-cross on the bench. This means lifting the chop about 1/2" so the pivot pin can be put in.
The vice chop is now free of the floor and can be moved in and out, it fair glides. When I said nearly parallel, this is because a little bit of toe-in at the top is preferable when clamping, and it is by about 7mm so no need to adjust it. You do this by putting packing pieces under the steel wear plates that I forgot to mention. These just lay at the bottom of mortice, you can see them below.
Next job is to clamp the chop to the leg and drill a hole for the vice screw making sure the flanged nut that sits on the back of the leg doesn't foul the top left hand stretcher. That will be next weekend.
Cheers
Andy
Everything fits the way it should, I have couple of shoulders that need a little bit of a shave but all the joints seem good, nice and tight but can be pulled apart, only a little mallet persuasion needed.
Next was to mount the vice chop. This is still oversized and not shaped so if I make any dings then this will be removed later when I shape it. First drill the holes for the Benchcrafted Criss-cross. This keeps the leg and chop almost parallel as the vice is wound in and out. Setting out the leg for drilling.
It's American kit, so a 3/8" or 9.5mm drill needed.
I could only find a 9mm drill so reamed it out to 3/8"
I'll find 3/8" drills all day long now I've done it. I did the chop as well. The holes have got to line up exactly either side of the big mortice so the hinge pin for the top of the criss-cross can fit. And they do. I haven't driven them home fully yet as I need to take them out and cut the chop to shape and sand it all.
Then mount the leg, chop and criss-cross on the bench. This means lifting the chop about 1/2" so the pivot pin can be put in.
The vice chop is now free of the floor and can be moved in and out, it fair glides. When I said nearly parallel, this is because a little bit of toe-in at the top is preferable when clamping, and it is by about 7mm so no need to adjust it. You do this by putting packing pieces under the steel wear plates that I forgot to mention. These just lay at the bottom of mortice, you can see them below.
Next job is to clamp the chop to the leg and drill a hole for the vice screw making sure the flanged nut that sits on the back of the leg doesn't foul the top left hand stretcher. That will be next weekend.
Cheers
Andy
Last edited:
Seadog
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Don't go American on me, Andy.
Screwdriver
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Looks amazing!
Interesting bench build also on YouTube. Izzy Swan (?). I'll double check see if I can find a link.
Here it is..
Interesting bench build also on YouTube. Izzy Swan (?). I'll double check see if I can find a link.
Here it is..
brewdexta
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Interesting bench it takes a lot of the key design points from the Roubo bench such as flat vertical faces for clamping and sliding deadman and holes in the top for hold-downs, dogs and clamps. I like the idea of putting power and air through the legs, I can't do that with a concrete floor so I'm going to drop power, air and extraction from the ceiling, I already do this with extraction on my assembly table, which would be useful if it wasn't covered in junk.
I'm not sticking exactly to the traditional Roubo bench design, more closely to the modern interpretation than this video but there will be a few modern twists, which is probably a good thing as André Jacob Roubo set out the original design around 1774, he was definitely a bright bloke and ahead of his time. I've looked at other bench designs and apart from ones built for a specific purpose, his is the best general design.
I plan to space the dog holes in the top in such a way they can be used with the tail vice as per traditional Roubo benches, but also in a way so you can make accurate 90 degree angles similar to Festool MFT tables or Parf tables with bench dogs. The tail vice isn't a traditional tail vice either, its a very small unit from an Australian company called HNT Gordon, should look a bit like this when installed.
it takes a lot of the key design points from the Roubo bench such as flat vertical faces for clamping and sliding deadman and holes in the top for hold-downs, dogs and clamps. I like the idea of putting power and air through the legs, I can't do that with a concrete floor so I'm going to drop power, air and extraction from the ceiling, I already do this with extraction on my assembly table, which would be useful if it wasn't covered in junk.I'm not sticking exactly to the traditional Roubo bench design, more closely to the modern interpretation than this video but there will be a few modern twists, which is probably a good thing as André Jacob Roubo set out the original design around 1774, he was definitely a bright bloke and ahead of his time. I've looked at other bench designs and apart from ones built for a specific purpose, his is the best general design.
I plan to space the dog holes in the top in such a way they can be used with the tail vice as per traditional Roubo benches, but also in a way so you can make accurate 90 degree angles similar to Festool MFT tables or Parf tables with bench dogs. The tail vice isn't a traditional tail vice either, its a very small unit from an Australian company called HNT Gordon, should look a bit like this when installed.
Screwdriver
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That is a very neat looking device I have to say. Tempted to install something like that in my existing (skip inspired) bench design.
brewdexta
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Made a bit more progress, to get to the stage where I'm gluing up the two leg frames at each end I had to drill the holes for the leg vice and the bolts that hold the frames to the lower stretchers. First I decided the best place for the vice screw and drilled a 35mm hole in the vice chop with my posh forstner bits in the pillar drill, not the scabby screwfix ones that I use around the house.
Then put the chop back on the criss-cross hardware and mark up the leg with the same bit. Then take the chop off, dismantle the bench frame and drill the leg with the same 35mm hole on the pillar drill. Then put it all back together again to mark up the hardware for the vice screw.
The vice screw is 28mm OD and you don't want the screw catching on the sides of the hole so I looked around the workshop for a suitable packer and found that I had a hose adapter that had a 35mm OD and 28mm ID. So cut a section off of that and slid it onto the screw.
Then put a bit of the same stuff underneath the screw as it comes out of the leg at the back to stop the screw drooping.
Now marked up the holes for the front boss, then did similar with the nut at the back of the leg, I can see a few mallet marks here where I must have forgotten to use the offcut I usually use as Douglas fir is very soft. What doesn't come out in sanding will come out using a bit of water and light taps to swell the fibres, but these are underneath at the back so not too bothered.
I used a transfer punch to mark out the holes and marked the top of the casting up as it the holes are not symmetric.
I tapped the holes in the front chop M6 as per the Benchcrafted vice however I will probably end getting some long M6 bolts and drilling through the chop and the leg and countersinking the nuts on the inside of the vice jaws but its OK for positioning the hardware at this stage as I don't have longer M6 bolts and I wanted to see how the walnut took a thread, I have never tapped wood before. I think a courser thread may be OK but although the clamping forces are in the opposite direction, I wouldn't bargain on it's longevity
Then drilled all the various bolt holes on the legs and top stretchers, sanded them down and glued and clamped the two end frames this morning.
I shall give them until tomorrow to set before I peg the mortices and mark up the bolt holes and fit the barrel nuts on the long lower stretchers.
Next question, do I use the older 19mm - 3/4" hold downs and dogs, or the newer 20mm variety, I have both, older on the left and newer on the right.
Or both
Cheers
Andy
Then put the chop back on the criss-cross hardware and mark up the leg with the same bit. Then take the chop off, dismantle the bench frame and drill the leg with the same 35mm hole on the pillar drill. Then put it all back together again to mark up the hardware for the vice screw.
The vice screw is 28mm OD and you don't want the screw catching on the sides of the hole so I looked around the workshop for a suitable packer and found that I had a hose adapter that had a 35mm OD and 28mm ID. So cut a section off of that and slid it onto the screw.
Then put a bit of the same stuff underneath the screw as it comes out of the leg at the back to stop the screw drooping.
Now marked up the holes for the front boss, then did similar with the nut at the back of the leg, I can see a few mallet marks here where I must have forgotten to use the offcut I usually use as Douglas fir is very soft. What doesn't come out in sanding will come out using a bit of water and light taps to swell the fibres, but these are underneath at the back so not too bothered.
I used a transfer punch to mark out the holes and marked the top of the casting up as it the holes are not symmetric.
I tapped the holes in the front chop M6 as per the Benchcrafted vice however I will probably end getting some long M6 bolts and drilling through the chop and the leg and countersinking the nuts on the inside of the vice jaws but its OK for positioning the hardware at this stage as I don't have longer M6 bolts and I wanted to see how the walnut took a thread, I have never tapped wood before. I think a courser thread may be OK but although the clamping forces are in the opposite direction, I wouldn't bargain on it's longevity
Then drilled all the various bolt holes on the legs and top stretchers, sanded them down and glued and clamped the two end frames this morning.
I shall give them until tomorrow to set before I peg the mortices and mark up the bolt holes and fit the barrel nuts on the long lower stretchers.
Next question, do I use the older 19mm - 3/4" hold downs and dogs, or the newer 20mm variety, I have both, older on the left and newer on the right.
Or both
Cheers
Andy
Screwdriver
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You can probably use the 19mm hold down in a 20mm hole...
brewdexta
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I'll drill a couple of holes in some scrap and have a try.
I wanted a dark, not phosphor, bronze washer to go behind the handwheel screw on the vice, I had a scrounge around and a 1895 penny was spot on. They are cheap as chips and plentiful so I don't mind drilling a hole in Britannia and Queen Vic.
Cheers
Andy
brewdexta
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I have a day off today so got into the workshop early, removed the clamps from the end frames, then drilled and pegged the tenons with walnut dowel. After breakfast I used my new little japanese flexible flush cut saw to cut the pegs flush then gave them all a good sanding.
Next I assembled the bench base and drilled through the bolt hole already drilled in the legs into the long lower stretchers with a long 12mm auger. I marked off where the barrel nuts needed to go on the stretchers then drilled the holes out for the barrel nuts with a 25mm forstner bit and enlarged the bolt holes to 13mm.
A gave the stretchers a good sanding and bolted it all together. It almost went smoothly, I thought I would have difficulty with alignment as the bolts are about 10" long but that went OK without enlarging the holes, the only issue was the threads on one bolt and barrel nut, I had to dig out my cheapy US tap and die set as it was 1/2" 13tpi, its not the first time it has saved the day.
Now all together, this is a bit blurred.
And the base complete apart from the sliding deadman rail and the rails for the under shelf. You can see the walnut pegs in the tenons. Only one tenon has a gap, its the top edge of the top right tenon, the other 3 shoulders of the tenon are nice and tight and it will be hidden by the top. I'm happy with that for my first proper mortice and tenon joinery, I think I have done one before many moons ago. I was going to drawbore the tenons but one step at a time, gluing and pegging will do for now and the whole thing is rock solid even before I put the top on.
Lunch, tidy up then I'll look at letting the tenons into the underside of the top.
Cheers
Andy
Next I assembled the bench base and drilled through the bolt hole already drilled in the legs into the long lower stretchers with a long 12mm auger. I marked off where the barrel nuts needed to go on the stretchers then drilled the holes out for the barrel nuts with a 25mm forstner bit and enlarged the bolt holes to 13mm.
A gave the stretchers a good sanding and bolted it all together. It almost went smoothly, I thought I would have difficulty with alignment as the bolts are about 10" long but that went OK without enlarging the holes, the only issue was the threads on one bolt and barrel nut, I had to dig out my cheapy US tap and die set as it was 1/2" 13tpi, its not the first time it has saved the day.
Now all together, this is a bit blurred.
And the base complete apart from the sliding deadman rail and the rails for the under shelf. You can see the walnut pegs in the tenons. Only one tenon has a gap, its the top edge of the top right tenon, the other 3 shoulders of the tenon are nice and tight and it will be hidden by the top. I'm happy with that for my first proper mortice and tenon joinery, I think I have done one before many moons ago. I was going to drawbore the tenons but one step at a time, gluing and pegging will do for now and the whole thing is rock solid even before I put the top on.
Lunch, tidy up then I'll look at letting the tenons into the underside of the top.
Cheers
Andy
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brewdexta
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I got both bench tops morticed this afternoon, the tops are bloody heavy, each is 2250 long, 600 wide and 110mm thick. Getting them on the morticer was fun, I had to unbolt the work clamp as it got in the way.
I made sure to cut the mortices a little smaller so I could fit the tenons carefully so that the joints were nice and tight with no slop. I have fitted one side and I'm almost there with the second. That's it until next weekend.
Cheers
Andy
I made sure to cut the mortices a little smaller so I could fit the tenons carefully so that the joints were nice and tight with no slop. I have fitted one side and I'm almost there with the second. That's it until next weekend.
Cheers
Andy
brewdexta
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I'm quite attached to the bronze valve handle now, but that is a good site for future reference, they have some great stuff.
I haven't made a huge amount of progress but I did get the two tops on and I've fitted the vice chop and handle so I can draw out the shape of the chop before cutting it.
its a big 'un!
Hopefully, tomorrow I'll get the chop shaped, the slot for the sliding deadman cut on the underneath of the bench top, the top planed and the tops cut to length.
Cheers
Andy
dan.taylor.1
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How big was the rejected handwheel and where did you get it from?
Seadog
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How about this Andy? I'm sure you've a corner you could slip it into 
http://www.lathes.co.uk/advertphoto/181029-dominion/
http://www.lathes.co.uk/advertphoto/181029-dominion/
Dieselman 63
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How about this Andy? I'm sure you've a corner you could slip it into
Area code for Market Drayton. That’s a bit of a trek up to Yorkshire
brewdexta
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How about this Andy? I'm sure you've a corner you could slip it into
I'm rapidly running out of corners, I need to sell a few machines to make space for more
brewdexta
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From memory it is about 8" across and it was an eBay special. Must be4 years since I bought it.
