chris pruteanu
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You guys are patient ! I would have thrown the darn thing long time ago ! No way I would waste as much time trying to fix an old welder ! I just don’t have time for that ! Good effort though !
- Thread starter jorva
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angellonewolf
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Sometimes it's not about the outcome it's about getting there and fixing something just for the hell of it been there done that a few times just to not let something beat me
This thread does read a bit crazy now looking back on it! In reality though, if the unit was in front of me all these checks would've taken about an hour, it's just that each check had to be done in a methodical way to figure out what was going on. I've not messed around with electronics for quite a while so it's actually been fun going though this, although I think I got a headache looking at the switch wiring 
It may be an old welder but from what I can see it's a decent unit and well worth fixing, it'll outlast anything modern and Chinese.
It may be an old welder but from what I can see it's a decent unit and well worth fixing, it'll outlast anything modern and Chinese.
I coud not agree more Neilj, but that's our logic not of others it seems. For me this has been fun to do. I like fixing things instead of throwing them out. We have an Other mig to wich I used that for sheet metal for my hobby I'm restoring a car and have it sitting on a chassis jig, and there was a piece missing to mount the car on to the jig and with this welder I Wil be able to weld that piece and don't need to be worried about it falling/breaking apart. And also if I had to buy a welder like this now, I woud be spending 1500 2000€ maybe even more to have something in the same quality so it was wel worth it.
The total in parts including the potentiometers was under 60€ that does not buy any other mig welder
I want to thank you once again neilj and Eddie for al the help and effort. I coud not have figured this out without you I will let you know when I get the parts and if it is running.
Here are some pictures of my car. this is hobby for me had never done this before.
The total in parts including the potentiometers was under 60€ that does not buy any other mig welder
I want to thank you once again neilj and Eddie for al the help and effort. I coud not have figured this out without you I will let you know when I get the parts and if it is running.
Here are some pictures of my car. this is hobby for me had never done this before.
angellonewolf
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Don't take my post wrong I'm all for it's being fix even if it costs a few quid more it's a learning experience and gives the brain a work out
And good on you for getting through it and same for the member helping you
And good on you for getting through it and same for the member helping you
Your car is a hobby and you have a Celette jig? I am very jealous!
If my memory is correct that's an old Opel Kadett, am I right?
chris pruteanu
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I think that's an opel manta... I might be wrong though...
Only small battleschips hehe. Its actualy meant for straigtening a body after accident. But it comes in handy for what i am doing now. And yes al pannels on the front are new. Inner wings, outer wings, front pannel, a pillars and the doors
Yes it's my hobby. Everything belongs to my grandpa including the welder we are trying to fix . I know that I am very lucky to have al the space and tools to use. I coud not do this at home.
And yes it's a Kadett c coupe
A package arrived today 
It's the fzj101. I installed it and tested it and it works!!! The wire feed is no longer running by its own. Still need to replace the IT46 but that is still on its way from the UK.
There is only one thing. The timer function seems like it is not working. Coud it be that I realy need to weld (black wire going to the rectifier)? Thinking it woud get a signal or something from there for the timer...
It's the fzj101. I installed it and tested it and it works!!! The wire feed is no longer running by its own. Still need to replace the IT46 but that is still on its way from the UK.
There is only one thing. The timer function seems like it is not working. Coud it be that I realy need to weld (black wire going to the rectifier)? Thinking it woud get a signal or something from there for the timer...
This is how far that we are now 2t and 4t function like it shoud, only spot weld and stitch function are not doing what they need to do. Im realy glad to that we have gotten this far, just a bit worried that there is something else that still needs to be replaced/damaged before I use it for some welding and also to not damage the new fzj101.
I'm glad that it is working ! ( so far ... ).
In Spot mode, after you press and hold the trigger the welder should turn itself off after a variable time, adjustable by the 1st pot. Does it just stay on forever ?
Similarly, in Stitch mode with the trigger pressed and held, the welder should be repeatedly cycling off and then back on again. Again, it just stays on ?
I do not think the failure of the timed functions will prevent normal welding, nor damage any components. The timed modes just alter resistors in the path for the clock signal ( pin 14 ) of the FZJ101 flip-flop.
Have you tried to adjust the burn back control ( 2nd pot ) ? Normally wirefeed and the main contactor + gas should drop out together when you release the trigger. Turning the burn pot clockwise should introduce a delay; wirefeed will stop immediately on release of the trigger but power stays on to melt more wire deeper into the torch shroud, thus reducing stickout for the next weld operation.
In Spot mode, after you press and hold the trigger the welder should turn itself off after a variable time, adjustable by the 1st pot. Does it just stay on forever ?
Similarly, in Stitch mode with the trigger pressed and held, the welder should be repeatedly cycling off and then back on again. Again, it just stays on ?
I do not think the failure of the timed functions will prevent normal welding, nor damage any components. The timed modes just alter resistors in the path for the clock signal ( pin 14 ) of the FZJ101 flip-flop.
Have you tried to adjust the burn back control ( 2nd pot ) ? Normally wirefeed and the main contactor + gas should drop out together when you release the trigger. Turning the burn pot clockwise should introduce a delay; wirefeed will stop immediately on release of the trigger but power stays on to melt more wire deeper into the torch shroud, thus reducing stickout for the next weld operation.
I am also realy glad, and my grandpa is pretty amazed that we got this far. The welder has been sitting for at least 20 years in a corner here. And al the others who have tried to repair it did not succed at it.
For spot welding mode, it seems like it goes into latched mode and does not come out of it. I have tried adjusting the potentiometer but it has no efect on it.
Stitched mode, when i set it to this mode it seems like its just in normal welding mode, adjusting the potentiometer has no influence on it what so ever. In other words pressing and releasing the trigger works exacly the same as in normal welding mode
For the burn back. I have not checked this. is there a possible way to see this without having a spool of wire in it and welding a bit?
Good to hear it wont damage anything else.
For spot welding mode, it seems like it goes into latched mode and does not come out of it. I have tried adjusting the potentiometer but it has no efect on it.
Stitched mode, when i set it to this mode it seems like its just in normal welding mode, adjusting the potentiometer has no influence on it what so ever. In other words pressing and releasing the trigger works exacly the same as in normal welding mode
For the burn back. I have not checked this. is there a possible way to see this without having a spool of wire in it and welding a bit?
Good to hear it wont damage anything else.
Then for the spot weld function this again is a bit of a weird one... Hope I can write it down so that you guys understand what I'm trying to say.
put the setting of the timer on the lowest, Press the trigger and it starts welding like in latched mode, en press the trigger again and it will immediately stop.
Put the timer on the highest setting it Wil have a delay before it stops. or you need to press the switch 2 times quickly after each other.
For stitch welding it does not have any influence when you turn the timer potentiometer. it just functions like in normal welding mode
put the setting of the timer on the lowest, Press the trigger and it starts welding like in latched mode, en press the trigger again and it will immediately stop.
Put the timer on the highest setting it Wil have a delay before it stops. or you need to press the switch 2 times quickly after each other.
For stitch welding it does not have any influence when you turn the timer potentiometer. it just functions like in normal welding mode
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Excellent news, been away for a few days so only just seen this. I would have no hesitation using it in 2T or 4T mode, you won't damage anything even though the timer modes are not working correctly. I'll have a look at the schematic again and see if I can work out exactly how the timer modes operate and if there is anything you can test easily.
Today I put a bottle of gas on the welder and did some welding test with it on thin sheet metal, This thing welds much better and nicer then the other mig welder that we have. However there was one issue The speed of the wire feed. I put the welder on 2 and the wire feed on 4. I have 0.8mm wire In it now with this setting it welds realy nice. But then I wanted to test it on a higher setting and the wire feed was not able to keep up with the the higher setting had to put wire feed on 10 (maximum) wich was not enough for setting 8 on the welder. Also tried less but it just was not enough
Measured the voltage at the motor and it goes up to 25,5V DC on maximum wire feed setting on the welder.
Or do I need thicker wire to use the higher settings on this welder?
Made a heatsink for the triac that I Still need to replace may not be needed but is see most of them mounted to a heatsink so while I am at it why not make one.
Measured the voltage at the motor and it goes up to 25,5V DC on maximum wire feed setting on the welder.
Or do I need thicker wire to use the higher settings on this welder?
Made a heatsink for the triac that I Still need to replace may not be needed but is see most of them mounted to a heatsink so while I am at it why not make one.
