Splintering Plywood...?

[The Z'eer]

So far, when using my table, circular or mitre saw I'm finding I'm left with an unsightly splintered edge on when cutting plywood.

Are there specific blades to eliminate this issue? If so can anyone recommend a quality product that really does the job nicely?

Thanks

 

[cumbriasteve]

Yes there are blades designed for that cut but of course the top layer of the ply will be grained, cut across the grain and a ragged edge is more difficult to avoid.

There are also variants in the quality of ply which has an impact on the cut.

One trick is prior to cutting, Stanley knife cut through the top layer on the cut line, this reduces the chances of it ripping.

 

[Bladevane]

You could try a blade with more teeth.

 

[WorkshopChris]

If you have a straight edge, track or are using a sliding mitre saw if on the first pass you just jet the blade skim over the surface not taking a full depth cut this will almost stop any tear out when you take your second full pass.

 

[Dcal]

Finer blades etc all help but the problem is you are cutting against an unsupported edge.
One option is to put the good side down so that the ply supports the break out. Of course you will have one ragged edge.
If you need two good edges it's more difficult
One option is stack the ply or use a top sacrificial layer to support the top edge.

Some industrial saws for cutting ply and the like have a small circular blade that cuts through the top layer (just a mm or so) in front of the main saw blade to prevent break out.
You can achieve a similar effect by taking a light cut (a few mm) in line with the cut. Then set the blade as normal and carry out the main cut. Takes twice as long though.

You could try saws with counter rotating blades, but I have no experience of them and think they might be a bit of a gimmick

 

[Dcal]

Workshopchris's post must have arrived as I was typing.

Just what I am saying but more concise

 

[Muppet]

Slice through with a new Stanley blade then circular saw ,

 

[Shedendman]

Gaffer tape or good masking tape(this is better) along where your about to cut this would be on top of the ply,mark your line then cut away

 

[gordon stephenson]

Cut the ply from the underside with the blade set just to clear the thickness.

 

[RonA]

Gaffer tape or good masking tape(this is better) along where your about to cut this would be on top of the ply,mark your line then cut away

Exactly what I was going to suggest
RonA

 

[R-D-R]

There are definitely products that will get you what you want to achieve, Blade will be key I can get factory edges on both my Mitre saw and track saw. The track saw has a sacrificial splinter guard on the rail that when you change the blade you replace and calibrate (cut) to the new blade. This gives a perfect, clean cut. The mitre saw gives a stunning Finnish every time, cant see how it does this other than the blade so definitely worth researching blades for your tools.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Track/plunge saw.
Either buy if you have a use or make one to suit your skill saw.

Wouldnt be without mine for boards amd laminates.

 

[TechnicAl]

Ive found its usually the quality of the plywood. The cheap stuff does splinter....good quality Marine ply doesnt but its about £80 a sheet for 12mm...

 

[armalites]

Speed of cut makes a difference too, it's all too easy to try and get the job quickly but going slowly and letting the blade do it's job can make a difference. With TCT blades they will still cut when they are blunt, I've got an old cheap table saw that I was given, it always seemed to cut ok but the thermal cutout would stop it quite often. I put a new blade in and it transformed it.

I use an 80t blade on my big mitre saw, when cutting kiln dried oak the finish is so good it is smooth to the touch.

I remember seeing some kitchen cabinets on Grand Designs where the layers of the plywood were an exposed feature so I can only assume that must have been a much better grade of ply.

 

[brightspark]

I had a far few cuts to make on a project made from oak and didn't want the edges to be damaged or chipped. I just sat them on to some thin ply and cut them all up . no splintering what so ever

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

 

[bigegg]

Fine tooth blade. Masking tape. Grade of ply. Score line with Stanley knife.
Or buy a panel saw with a scoring blade.

 

[WorkshopChris]

Do you have you an ATB blade (alternate top bevel) this can help with problem materials.

 

[AndersK]

As the other said use a track/rail

This is laminated chip board (blue protective cover) from IKEA cut with fine side up. Absolutely splinter free.

First cut is 2mm deep then a second to full depth.

 

[123hotchef]

As the other said use a track/rail

This is laminated chip board (blue protective cover) from IKEA cut with fine side up. Absolutely splinter free.

First cut is 2mm deep then a second to full depth.View attachment 141477

first cut should also be made backwards i was told. not sure why but it works on laminates and ply and work tops