Blue automotive spade connectors

[MattF]

Just wondered if anyone knew offhand what voltage & current the blue spade terminals are rated for? Have a hot water urn here where one of the spades has a crumbled cover & carbonisation due to arcing, and wondered if they were an okay replacement. It's on the 240V heater element connection, I believe.

 

[piman]

Hello Matt,

the blue is for 2.5mmsq cable, so should be adequate for the urn (3Kw?), and is rated for mains voltage.

Alec

 

[MattF]

Cheers Alec. It's running on a standard mains plug, so definitely no more than 3kW.

 

[rtbcomp]

I've seen them used on the mains connections in old computers, so voltage rating is OK.

 

[Shox Dr]

Make sure it’s crimped correctly, the heat cycling will cause it to loosen.

(Pet hate this type of terminal, much prefer uninsulated, oem type)

 

[puffernutter]

I have used them on the same item (water boiler) without any issue.

 

[puffernutter]

As a slight aside, the way the older self-filling urn work are really quite clever. All analogue! It uses a crude level sending circuit using transistors and the water as a conductor a relay and a temperature sensor with a very tight hysteresis. So initially it fills until its above the lower level, then heats to 98degC. Then adds water (at the bottom) until it cools by around 2 degC then stops filling, re-heats and the cycle repeats until it gets to the top water level sensor when it just cycles the heat. Very simple, very clever!

PN

 

[ajlelectronics]

Nothing wrong with insulated crimps if properly done with a ratchet tool.

 

[MattF]

Make sure it’s crimped correctly, the heat cycling will cause it to loosen.

(Pet hate this type of terminal, much prefer uninsulated, oem type)

I have a ratchet tool for them.

 

[MattF]

As a slight aside, the way the older self-filling urn work are really quite clever. All analogue! It uses a crude level sending circuit using transistors and the water as a conductor a relay and a temperature sensor with a very tight hysteresis. So initially it fills until its above the lower level, then heats to 98degC. Then adds water (at the bottom) until it cools by around 2 degC then stops filling, re-heats and the cycle repeats until it gets to the top water level sensor when it just cycles the heat. Very simple, very clever!

PN

Do you have any advice for removing those littly snap fit collars on the inlet tube? The thin plastic inlet tubing has chafed at one point, so need to either replace that or chop it and fit an inline connector. Those collars aren't prying out easily though. Was wondering if using heat, (hairdryer), to try and soften the tube might help?

 

[puffernutter]

I must honest I bought spares from the supplier. Heat may work, a bit of washing up liquid to help it slide?

I've got one in the shed if anybody wants it - it does need some work!

PN

 

[armalites]

Make sure it’s crimped correctly, the heat cycling will cause it to loosen.

(Pet hate this type of terminal, much prefer uninsulated, oem type)

I must admit I hate seeing them in cars, I know they are very good when done with a ratchet tool, I have one and used it hundreds of time but uninsulated with a clear rubber sleeve look much more professional IMHO

 

[puffernutter]

Bullet connectors soldered on look much classier!

Cheers

PN

 

[zzr1200]

Soldered wiring joints, covered with shrink wrap tubing are the best way forward and definitely look the best, IMO.

 

[ukracer]

Bullet connectors soldered on look much classier!

Cheers

PN

Interesting...until a few weeks ago i would have said the same.

That was until i watched a video by a guy who fits cables for a living . It was on making up a loom for S15 and uprated coil packs.. He reckoned that you should avoid soldering where possible. I always thought crimping was for speed or was size limited.

Comments from our Auto electricians or leccies?

 

[brightspark]

Interesting...until a few weeks ago i would have said the same.

That was until i watched a video by a guy who fits cables for a living . It was on making up a loom for S15 and uprated coil packs.. He reckoned that you should avoid soldering where possible. I always thought crimping was for speed or was size limited.

Comments from our Auto electricians or leccies?

soldered connectors are more prone to snap on the ends if there is movement or vibration .if using a crimping tool don't use the cheapo flat ones that do a single crimp needs to be double ratchet type

 

[armalites]

I've read the same, soldering can cause a stick break point as there is no flexibility. There is also the fact that the flux is corrosive. The key with the old style british bullets is having the right size for the cable. Many places only list one size.

I have a ratchet one for brass bullets that crimps a hex but it does rely on the cable being a good fit. The cheaper tool works much better if the cable isn't 100% right size

 

[ukracer]

soldered connectors are more prone to snap on the ends if there is movement or vibration .if using a crimping tool don't use the cheapo flat ones that do a single crimp needs to be double ratchet type

So he was correct...bloody hell i trained as an electronics engineer in a previous life and thought he was in cloud cuckoo land. Lol

 

[brightspark]

I thought I was doing the right thing soldering my lugs on my welding leads. it made them solid and not flexible and snapped after 6 month

 

[PhillipM]

Interesting...until a few weeks ago i would have said the same.

That was until i watched a video by a guy who fits cables for a living . It was on making up a loom for S15 and uprated coil packs.. He reckoned that you should avoid soldering where possible. I always thought crimping was for speed or was size limited.

Comments from our Auto electricians or leccies?

Properly crimped connectors are far better than solder for fatigue and vibration resistance. My race looms have no solder at all where possible - only on terminations into PCB's.
I'll take a decent crimped joint every time.

I also wouldn't fit a bullet connector to anything, they're too suceptable to loss of spring or deformation because there's nothing to stop the male lugs moving too far inwards - in terms of reliability they're about on a par with scotch-locks.