What could they have done wrong? 300tdi timing

[owas]

My 300tdi ran really well, was actually quite quick pulling off.
Until i had the timing belt done last week (which was just about to let go looking at the old one), now its really slugglish, when you put your foot down theres just nothing and its really quite dangerous imo.
On top of that its also alot more 'tappy' then it was before.

Any ideas what they might have done wrong? Ill be taking it back on monday and dont want to just get fobbed off.

 

[knighty]

^^^ what he said :-)

 

[Ruffian]

Same, seems like it''s timed up wrong,

Does it smoke any more than it did?

 

[owas]

Same, seems like it''s timed up wrong,

Does it smoke any more than it did?

I think it smokes about the same, but i dont quite remember how it was now.

Pump timing off a tooth.

Is that something i can adjust myself?

 

[gordon stephenson]

When I did my discovery years ago, there was a pin to be inserted thro' the pump pulley to lock it in position while lining up the belt, The pin is easily made.

 

[Bryan Williams]

Might just be retarded a touch.

 

[zeppelin builder]

Pump timing off a tooth.

Aye retarded it will be dead and smokey . advanced usualy noisey and harsh

 

[Ruffian]

It only is 4 pulleys, just tippex it.

Unfortunately the crank pulley and casings will need to come off again,

 

[owas]

It only is 4 pulleys, just tippex it.

Unfortunately the crank pulley and casings will need to come off again,

Ill leave it for the garage to sort,
Such a PITA, you'd expect a land rover specialist garage to get it right first time.

 

[zeppelin builder]

Ill leave it for the garage to sort,
Such a PITA, you'd expect a land rover specialist garage to get it right first time.

The nuggets have all the fancy tools but forget the basics like marking the position with a paint marker before removal .they put on the new belt take up the tension and it moves it . the marks have to line up when at the correct tension thats the true setting

 

[cumbriasteve]

I got a Ford timing belt replaced by a so called top class garage once when I was recovering from an injury so could not do it myself.

The symptoms were the same as yours so I took it back and told them it was a tooth out, they checked and said all was spot on, ended up taking to a Ford main dealer and they sorted it... a tooth out.

Needless to say the original garage paid for the fix by the main dealer after we had words.

 

[8ob]

When I did my discovery years ago, there was a pin to be inserted thro' the pump pulley to lock it in position while lining up the belt, The pin is easily made.

The pulleys are not the problem Gordon, drills or bolts sort those out in the absence of pins, not many have or can be bothered to use the pin that screws into the drainhole under the bellhousing that locks up the crank. Its easy for the crank to move a tad when bumping the belt over the idler if your not careful when trying to do the job without the crank locked up, have made the same mistake myself in the past

Bob

 

[postie jon]

my 200tdi defender came from an ex army mechanic who had replaced the belt 6 mnths ago ,would hit a flat, spot then smoke like billy o, took it too an elderly tractor mechanic ,got it back the following day ,pulling like a train wi no smoke ,said that the belt timing was out..

 

[waldershelf]

A set of timing tools can be had for about £25 from amazon or Ebay. You really can't go wrong once its all locked up with the correct tools. The only thing difficult about timing a 300tdi is tightening the crank pulley nut. Again a special tool makes it easy bit that one is about £70.

 

[Bryan Williams]

I'm not a mechanic but my cam belt is an easy change.All I do is tippex a mark on each pulley on a tooth slide the belt off a bit ,carry the mark into the tooth groove on the belt, take the belt off , making sure not to move any wheels.
I then put the old belt next to the new and transfer the marks on to the new belt, match them up to the tooth marks slide it on.Done.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Sounds like they fitted the belt and forgot to turn the engine over, by hand, to see if the belt settles into the right positions to the timing marks.

Take it back to were you had it done and complain.

 

[Ruffian]

I'm not a mechanic but my cam belt is an easy change.All I do is tippex a mark on each pulley on a tooth slide the belt off a bit ,carry the mark into the tooth groove on the belt, take the belt off , making sure not to move any wheels.
I then put the old belt next to the new and transfer the marks on to the new belt, match them up to the tooth marks slide it on.Done.

Genuine subaru belts or better have the timing lines already on them as the belts are so long, but I do similar if it''s a belt I haven' done before as can then count the teeth between each mark and can confirm it' right.

 

[owas]

My 300tdi timing tools were two bolts...

The most difficult bit was getting the fan off - I had to borrow a spanner.

I never put the fan back on actually - anyone want a 300tdi fan?

He actually did say why haven't you done it yourself when he was looking at the engine conversion and all the other bits ive done.

I just figured id get it done properly once and not have to worry about it, that hasnt worked too well

 

[Ruffian]

Worst bit I found was getting the crank pulley bolt off until a friend showed me "the key" to slackening them,

Big bar from the bolt locked round onto the chassis leg and flick the starter.

 

[julianf]

If youve got a couple of 300s, its well worth just buying the tools.

Locking set and timing pins (i know people say you can use drill shanks, but you cant by yourself, without a load of bother, as how do you turn the fly wheel whilst holding the drill.... - yes, ive done it, but, for £23, just get the kit with the crank dampner puller as well). Same kit lets you swap IPs, (if you ever need to) without messing with the timing.

The crank spanner is a con. There a chap on ebay who sells them, but theyre expensive and badly welded. They do the job though. £60.

Then you could do with a torque wrench with a needle.

Its really not a hard job with the tools. Getting the crank dampner off without the kit, or a puller that happens to fit is a pig.

You can check the crank to IP timing without taking off the case. Bring to where the woodruff key on the crank is at 12pm. Slide under the truck and shine a torch up through the drain plug to check the flywheel groove is in the correct place (which is more accurate than the woodruff key - just use the key to roughly get it right)

Then take off the cover in front of the IP, and use your drill shank.

I always have to remind myself of the procedure, but the crank / ip setup can be adjusted using the plate on the ip. It allows the ip to move relative to its pulley - or rather the pulley relative to the IP.

The cam timing is (said to be) less critical, but i dont know if that is true. Im sure you can work it out somhow without taking the timing case front off, by taking the rocker cover off, and looking at the valves, but ive not done that.