Paul Irvine
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Hi,
Which supplier did you go for, they seem to be available via a few places and some have intrest free credit although at a higher start price.
- Thread starter Gizmo.Y
- Start date
Which supplier did you go for, they seem to be available via a few places and some have intrest free credit although at a higher start price.
Richard.
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- Cambridgeshire
Christ Giz lovely bit of fab work but you know that welder only weighs 25kg don't ya?Not yet....Been too busy building a new trolley for it... got a bit carried away...
Richard.
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Far Better it's overkill than falling apart Giz. No taking it away from ya it's a nice job.
As hood said though would of been a prime excuse to christen the new tig.
Shedendman
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ROBO warsNot yet....Been too busy building a new trolley for it... got a bit carried away...
cool though
Cart "Semi" Finished, Will finish it in a few weeks time.
Now, First impressions of the welder...
All the lines are very stiff, especially the torch cable. No where near as flexible as the Eastwood one, might have to look into upgrading that sooner rather than later.
More complicated that i first thought. With my old TIG i used to use the Pedal as a "Switch" and set a static amperage on the machine. meaning no matter how little or hard the pedal was pressed, it was static at those amps.
I either can't find the setting, or it does exist...But the pedal is variable on this one with a knob on the side, which is annoying, id rather be able to set the amperage for the pedal on the machine...
These are my first welds with it, 1.6mm walled stainless tubing. I have NO idea what the settings are, but from what i can work out, Low amperage is 5 amps, high is 80 amps, 30% Cycle, 2 seconds between pulse?
Now, First impressions of the welder...
All the lines are very stiff, especially the torch cable. No where near as flexible as the Eastwood one, might have to look into upgrading that sooner rather than later.
More complicated that i first thought. With my old TIG i used to use the Pedal as a "Switch" and set a static amperage on the machine. meaning no matter how little or hard the pedal was pressed, it was static at those amps.
I either can't find the setting, or it does exist...But the pedal is variable on this one with a knob on the side, which is annoying, id rather be able to set the amperage for the pedal on the machine...
These are my first welds with it, 1.6mm walled stainless tubing. I have NO idea what the settings are, but from what i can work out, Low amperage is 5 amps, high is 80 amps, 30% Cycle, 2 seconds between pulse?
Richard.
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- Cambridgeshire
They are quite a simple machine to use you just follow the graph and dial it in. Yes I'm not a great fan of the parweld pedal or torch to be fair and the offerings from thermal arc for the exact same machine are far superior but that said they are more expensive too.Cart "Semi" Finished, Will finish it in a few weeks time.
Now, First impressions of the welder...
All the lines are very stiff, especially the torch cable. No where near as flexible as the Eastwood one, might have to look into upgrading that sooner rather than later.
More complicated that i first thought. With my old TIG i used to use the Pedal as a "Switch" and set a static amperage on the machine. meaning no matter how little or hard the pedal was pressed, it was static at those amps.
I either can't find the setting, or it does exist...But the pedal is variable on this one with a knob on the side, which is annoying, id rather be able to set the amperage for the pedal on the machine...
These are my first welds with it, 1.6mm walled stainless tubing. I have NO idea what the settings are, but from what i can work out, Low amperage is 5 amps, high is 80 amps, 30% Cycle, 2 seconds between pulse?
Using the pedal as a switch is easy
You just set the current you want to use as a max and hit it to the floor. Hey presto.. pedal switch.
Not aware of any other settings to make it act as you describe.
Trolley looks nice Giz but those open box section ends on the top bar spoil it. 10min job to blank them off and it will be a huge improvement.
Is it the pic or are those welds on the tube really sunken? No need for such a slow pulse or any pulse at all really on that. Just a straight 45 amps and 1mm filler going in with standard gas lens will see lovely results on tube like that.
I got some cap ends coming for the Box Section.
The MAX Output appears to be configured by the knob on the footpedal though. you have to press the pedal, then turn to knob which adjusts the amperage on the display on the machined to the desired amperage, which seems a bit backwards to me as you are just wasting Gas whilst doing this...im either doing something wrong, or what appears to be a simple feature does not exist...
The MAX Output appears to be configured by the knob on the footpedal though. you have to press the pedal, then turn to knob which adjusts the amperage on the display on the machined to the desired amperage, which seems a bit backwards to me as you are just wasting Gas whilst doing this...im either doing something wrong, or what appears to be a simple feature does not exist...
Richard.
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Oh god.... really??
That's an awful design flaw.
In fairness I have used the pedals on those in the past but I guess I must of just used it where it was pre set as I don't remember farting about with it like that. If you don't press it what happens when you adjust the pot on the side? Nothing I assume.. that's surely not right
Richard.
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That also means your actually activating the hf start to adjust the current
@Tom Orrow L this can't be right surely
@Tom Orrow L this can't be right surely
i also noticed theres a plug with Pins in the Pedal box...Surely they can't expect the pedal to re-pinned for AC and DC Use?
When the pedal is plugged in, this locks out the amperage adjustment on the machine. Meaning i need to get up, Pick up the pedal, Activate the HF, Adjust Amperage to desired level using the knob and watching the display on the machine, put the pedal down, sit down, commence work....
When the pedal is plugged in, this locks out the amperage adjustment on the machine. Meaning i need to get up, Pick up the pedal, Activate the HF, Adjust Amperage to desired level using the knob and watching the display on the machine, put the pedal down, sit down, commence work....
addjunkie
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Set pedal to max, then unplug it. Turn amp knob to where you want it,.......plug pedal back in, does that work
The thermal arc pedal doesnt have a knob, and f they are the same machine!
Really like the trolley, is there space for the cooler too, to accomodate the small felxi torch.
The thermal arc pedal doesnt have a knob, and f they are the same machine!
Really like the trolley, is there space for the cooler too, to accomodate the small felxi torch.
Richard.
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Although it's the same machine it will have a completely different operating system to the way the pedal works and adjusts. Mine is essentially a lorch t220 but it's a victor 8 pin plug for the pedal.
Tbf the thermal arc design ain't great because you need to unplug the pedal to change max current but it's not too much of a ball ache.
the knob on the pedal has 2 stops, one for min, one for Max, If the pedals set for max amps, it defaults to max amps as soon as the pedal is plugged in.
Even my eastwood had the ability to change from Pedal to Machine to set the amps, and that had 4 knobs and 2 buttons...
Even my eastwood had the ability to change from Pedal to Machine to set the amps, and that had 4 knobs and 2 buttons...
Richard.
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So can you set the pedal current on the pot without having to press it.
What does your manual say?
