Tengtooltom
Member
- Messages
- 207
No need to hone the new finished liners. Just give them a light run with 500grit wet and dry (sandpaper from your local bodyshop supplies) soaked with some kerosene/parafin. Do this in a circular motion in the same pattern as you already see in the new liner.
The Dextas did not have any heater plug or glow plugs as standard but were only fitted for certain markets/areas. If the pump and injectors are in good condition and you have reasonable compression it should start up no problem. There is/maybe a button in the middle of the arm on the injector pump where the STOP cable is connected. To start from cold - pull out the stop cable to stop position, pull the throttle lever (on side of lower dash panel or up under steering wheel) to full trottle position (down) push in the stop cable, press the button to the in position (it should remain in). start as normal, let it rev up for a few seconds before slowing off to tick over. The button should return to the out position automatically. This procedure is only necessary from cold start. Its like pulling out the ckoke on a Ford Anglia or Cortina of the same age.
Use AgriCastrol MP (or any Multi Purpose Tractor oil) all through the tractor - no need for several different types.
After running in the rebuilt engine for 25-30 hours with light work, put it to work with a light/medium load on it for most of a day (plough or harrow) keeping an eye on oil level.
Also remove the oilbath air filter unit complete. Drop off the bottom bowl, empty out the old oil and wash out. There is a removable wire mesh cartridge in here. If it is full of crap wash out with kero/parafin light it up to burn off the crap, rewash and dry out. The main body is a sealed unit. If this looks anyway dirty (black soot or general crap) nip off one end of each (3)arm, fold down, pull out the wire mesh, wash/clean as above and repack. Just refold the 3 arms, no need to weld (if you want to spot with mig/tig)

The Dextas did not have any heater plug or glow plugs as standard but were only fitted for certain markets/areas. If the pump and injectors are in good condition and you have reasonable compression it should start up no problem. There is/maybe a button in the middle of the arm on the injector pump where the STOP cable is connected. To start from cold - pull out the stop cable to stop position, pull the throttle lever (on side of lower dash panel or up under steering wheel) to full trottle position (down) push in the stop cable, press the button to the in position (it should remain in). start as normal, let it rev up for a few seconds before slowing off to tick over. The button should return to the out position automatically. This procedure is only necessary from cold start. Its like pulling out the ckoke on a Ford Anglia or Cortina of the same age.
Use AgriCastrol MP (or any Multi Purpose Tractor oil) all through the tractor - no need for several different types.
After running in the rebuilt engine for 25-30 hours with light work, put it to work with a light/medium load on it for most of a day (plough or harrow) keeping an eye on oil level.
Also remove the oilbath air filter unit complete. Drop off the bottom bowl, empty out the old oil and wash out. There is a removable wire mesh cartridge in here. If it is full of crap wash out with kero/parafin light it up to burn off the crap, rewash and dry out. The main body is a sealed unit. If this looks anyway dirty (black soot or general crap) nip off one end of each (3)arm, fold down, pull out the wire mesh, wash/clean as above and repack. Just refold the 3 arms, no need to weld (if you want to spot with mig/tig)

