So I’ve **Language**ed it?5mm for a 130 is a bit much if trying to do it in a single pass
So I’ve **Language**ed it?5mm for a 130 is a bit much if trying to do it in a single pass
Probably broken. But dont dispair, goto Morpeth and the nice man at EWM will sell you a quality replacment!So I’ve **Language**ed it?
Cheers Eddie, I'll give it a try and report back.The rectifier is an assembly of flat aluminium cooling fins, with diodes pressed into them. There will be four heavy bolted connections, two to the secondary of the main welding transformer, one to the inductor ( choke ), and one to the welding torch.
To test the diodes, unbolt one of the two connections of thick solid wire from the transformer secondary.
Using a meter set to the "Diode Test" range ( indicated by the symbol for a diode ), check each of the diodes in both the forward and reverse directions. There will be multiple diodes pressed into each plate. Measure between the plate and the wire emerging from the top of each diode, then reverse the meter leads and check again. In the "Forward" ( conducting ) direction, the meter should indicate about "0.700", and in the reverse ( blocking ) direction, the reading should be "OL" or "1.".
If the machine is blowing fuses due to shorted diode(s), one or more of the diodes will show full continuity ( 0.00 Ohms ) in both directions.
I've just looked. Beautiful but way outside my price range I'm afraid. Machine mart here I come.Probably broken. But dont dispair, goto Morpeth and the nice man at EWM will sell you a quality replacment!
Cheers Gaz, I'm just sick. I can't afford to buy a new one and to realise I've broken it out of my own ignorance is bloody frustrating.150 for my model and learnt fast to not try and hit that cut off point and allow it to cool down during welds with the fan
you would be hitting max near on everytime tripping it out often
a 180 or 195 is what i replaced it with myself but that welds 6mm in spray transfer so ive read on here
it wont be your liner as it would have tripped at touching metal
more to your windings and diodes
A machine shouldnt damage its self due to use at full power, it should over heat, and hit the thermal cut out, thus protecting its self.Cheers Gaz, I'm just sick. I can't afford to buy a new one and to realise I've broken it out of my own ignorance is bloody frustrating.
Right Eddie, I've just tested the diodes and here's what I got. The diodes on the first fin (with a wire running to the transformer) gave a reading of .44 in the forward direction and OL in the reverse direction.The rectifier is an assembly of flat aluminium cooling fins, with diodes pressed into them. There will be four heavy bolted connections, two to the secondary of the main welding transformer, one to the inductor ( choke ), and one to the welding torch.
To test the diodes, unbolt one of the two connections of thick solid wire from the transformer secondary.
Using a meter set to the "Diode Test" range ( indicated by the symbol for a diode ), check each of the diodes in both the forward and reverse directions. There will be multiple diodes pressed into each plate. Measure between the plate and the wire emerging from the top of each diode, then reverse the meter leads and check again. In the "Forward" ( conducting ) direction, the meter should indicate about "0.700", and in the reverse ( blocking ) direction, the reading should be "OL" or "1.".
If the machine is blowing fuses due to shorted diode(s), one or more of the diodes will show full continuity ( 0.00 Ohms ) in both directions.