woodburner basic q's

[monkeymark]

Ok,

About to make one for a friend and have a few basic questions.

Should the primary burn be above, level with or below the fire bed?

How thick does the baffle need to be and single or double baffle?

How thick for a plate on the top? I have some 6mm and 10mm somewhere.

Cheers

 

[sparkysy]

Hello monkeymark
Yeah if it's wood above or about level with main burn area! Then a secondary one can go higher up for secondary burn! Baffle plate can be about 2+ that thin will warp but will do the job I tend to go for 3-4 in mine, up to you how many you put in but I only use one. The top depends on how big it is gas bottle should be fine with 6mm, 10mm takes ages to get hot too! Hope this helps!

 

[pedrobedro]

What is the primary burn please ? There are primary, secondary and some have tertiary air supplies depending on the level of combustion and control required. Your baffle needs to be thick enough to stand the heat inside the stove without warping, our Hunter stove has just the one 5mm plate baffle which creates a chamber at the back of the stove where the secondary air enters then falls down the front to keep the glass clean(ish)

 

[sparkysy]

Hi pedrobedro
Yes the primary is the main burn area to feed the fire secondary is for the hot gas that escapes the fuel I believe so that it is fed with air too and completely burnt up it is for efficiency as far as I know. Yes 5mm plate would be good I'm only on a 13kg gas burner so mine does warp a bit but not too badly! The airwash system I think is to keep the soot from the glass as best it can and feed air to the main burn area.

 

[octo0072000]

a few dozen wood stoves to give you ideas

http://www.instructables.com/howto/wood+stoves/

 

[sparkysy]

Good call octo haven't been on there for a while good few to select from nice

 

[Rig Pig]

Just be cautious, wood burners have to be tested and certified + installed by a HETAS registered fitter or the house insurance isn't worth the paper it written on!

 

[julianf]

Just be cautious, wood burners have to be tested and certified + installed by a HETAS registered fitter or the house insurance isn't worth the paper it written on!

Im not sure you are entirely correct on that.

The install has to be compliant with document J of the buildings regs, and youre right in that a lot of HETAS installers will only use new equipment (possibly as then they can make parts markup) however, if the install is compliant, then building control can (for a fee) sign off a DIY install, and i know from personal experience (installing a pre-paperwork stove) that there was no mention of 'certification' or testing (of the stove itself) from the inspector that i dealt with.

I have little doubt that, if the unit looks too DIY, that a BC inspector may query it, however, i expect that if you make it clear in conversation that you are familiar with document J, then there will be no issues.


ps. the only two issues i can see are that -

a) the hearth distance from the door of the stove changes between, IIRC, 225mm and 300mm depending on if the 'manufacturer' says the stove can be run with the door open or not. If there is no 'papered up' manufacturer, then 300mm would be the default.

b) the thickness of the hearth varies depending on if the manufacturer specifies that the stove base will never rise greater than, IIRC, 100c. If there is no paperwork to say so, then you would to better going with a constructional hearth.

 

[brewdexta]

I may be showing my ignorance here but isn't there also a regulation on ventilation, so many sq cm of ventilation per Kw? It is many moons since I fitted my stoves but I put pipes under the floors direct to the stoves before I concreted to avoid drafts and i believe I did this to meet a building reg.

 

[julianf]

Yes, stoves over 5kw require external ventilation (air brick).

 

[monkeymark]

Thanks for all the help guys.

Just to clear things up a little, im only making one for the back garden of an evening, not as a main heat source for the household so I wouldn't have thought any legislation would come into it.

Thanks for he link octo, ill take a look now.

 

[monkeymark]

Well, this bloody valve is proving rather troublesome to remove!!!

 

[julianf]

If you open the valve, its possible to fill the cylinder with a hose. Awkward, but possible.

Once its full, you can slit the side with a grinder, drain, and continue cutting.

That way you never need to actually remove the valve before starting.

 

[monkeymark]

If you open the valve, its possible to fill the cylinder with a hose. Awkward, but possible.

Once its full, you can slit the side with a grinder, drain, and continue cutting.

That way you never need to actually remove the valve before starting.

This is a butane cylinder with the clip on type reg. Not sure if it can be done.

Removed the valve guard and currently have it in a vice by the valve. Still cant budge it

 

[monkeymark]

Haazzzaaahhh! Finally got it off.

Tried stilsons, footprints, drift and big hammer all to no avail (though they may have helped loosen it).

Ended up with it upside down in a large vice. Used the slots from the bottom ring and put a metal flat bar in each. Pushed with one and pulled with the other and CRACK! it went! About bloody time

 

[monkeymark]

Where do you guys get your high temp paint from? Any makes better than others?

Figure as I intend to do a couple of these I might as well buy most/all of it together.

 

[julianf]

I like the stuff wood warm stoves are done with. Its kind of a very slightly metallic looking black. Id have to go out to the workshop to check exactly what it is, but google may answer you also.

 

[DrNik]

I'd give it a test burn to get the paint off, then quick wire brushing, then some grate blackening can be rubbed in and then polished, it's the cheapest option, high temp exhaust paint isn't that good long term

 

[monkeymark]

I'd give it a test burn to get the paint off, then quick wire brushing, then some grate blackening can be rubbed in and then polished, it's the cheapest option, high temp exhaust paint isn't that good long term

Never used grate blackening. Can it be painted over the top to add some writing?

 

[MattF]

Never used grate blackening. Can it be painted over the top to add some writing?

Nope. It's not a permanent coating like paint and such. You'd probably have more luck painting the lettering first then coating with stove black.