- Thread starter Jakeyboyy
- Start date
Thanks hope I get help with fixing it aha
No but what is that black thing I took it of and better look can see it’s broke that must be the culprit that’s blown I did hear a pop and did smell funny so that must be why Dosnt work
Although you are trying to keep it a secret, I say that your welder is an AutoJack Mig Master 130, and I claim my Five Pounds.
The failed bridge rectifier is a KBPC310, rated at 3 Amps, as shown in this earlier thread:
Autojack mig130 gas converted.....
Hi all, ive just converted my mig to gas and within a few mins it failed popped it open and found this: I reversed the polarity on the leads but not on That connector marked cn1 which connected to the gnd and +ve of the torch and earth clamp so i assume this has caused it? If so what component...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Yes your spot on with mig master 130 lol wasn’t keeping it a secret but yea it’s Gasless converted to gas and yea I’ve ordered 10 of the rectifiers but what’s the volt have to be or dose it not matter as long as it’s big ? Thanks
That bridge rectifier seems to be there to change a share of the AC welding output from the main transformer to DC, so that it can supply the speed control circuit and the wirefeed motor.
As such, the input AC to the rectifier will vary from about 15 to a maximum of 30 volts. The voltage rating of a rectifier is only the maximum it can safely carry, so a rating of 100 or 1000 volts is just fine for this job.
[ The current rating of 3 Amps means it could run a 24-volt motor of up to 72 Watts, and I think this one is probably less than 40 watts, so again, it will be OK.]
The thread I linked to was 4 years ago.... these small rectifiers seem to be a weak point!
Apart from that, the "AutoJack" is an interesting box, with a fully-variable output power control ( a.k.a. "Light Dimmer" ), rather than just 2 or 4 crude voltage steps.
This thread:
explains how the welding output can be improved by adding a rectifier and an inductor.
As such, the input AC to the rectifier will vary from about 15 to a maximum of 30 volts. The voltage rating of a rectifier is only the maximum it can safely carry, so a rating of 100 or 1000 volts is just fine for this job.
[ The current rating of 3 Amps means it could run a 24-volt motor of up to 72 Watts, and I think this one is probably less than 40 watts, so again, it will be OK.]
The thread I linked to was 4 years ago.... these small rectifiers seem to be a weak point!
Apart from that, the "AutoJack" is an interesting box, with a fully-variable output power control ( a.k.a. "Light Dimmer" ), rather than just 2 or 4 crude voltage steps.
This thread:
Flux core welder modification plus a big hello
So this is a little bit of two post's into one, I'm new to the forum so a big hello to every one, quite new to welding done some in the past but is been a few years. I'm a sparky by trade, was in the game for over 10 years but been in the building trade all my life, but after the loss of my...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
I was worried that the replacement rectifier might blow again....!
As I wrote in Post #36 of the other Autojack thread:
I am fairly sure that the DC output of this rectifier only runs the wirefeed motor, via the speed controller part of the board.
The AC supply into the board comes from the secondary of the main welding transformer, and this should not exceed about 30 volts. Maybe the AC mains on the primary is leaking due to poor insulation, and affecting the secondary......
In Post #30 of that other thread I suggested checking the AC voltage at connector CN1, between the two supply wires and also from mains earth ( the chassis ) to each of the two wires at CN1.
The wirefeed motor is small and should not pull much more than 1 Amp. In Post #33 of that thread I suggested checking the actual current drawn from the positive output pin of the KBPC310 rectifier.
Since you have a few of these rectifiers, you could try wiring two of them in parallel so they share the current load, maybe they will last longer that way....
To put two rectifiers in parallel, you would have to join both the AC inputs ( marked "~" ) together, and join the two "-" outputs, then both the "+" outputs, and then put all of this onto the board. It will look like a wiring nightmare! The best way is probably to stack one rectifier on top of the other, with the correct orientation, then bend the wires of the upper one to go down and join onto the pins of the lower one.
As I wrote in Post #36 of the other Autojack thread:
Hi all, ive just converted my mig to gas and within a few mins it failed popped it open and found this:
I reversed the polarity on the leads but not on
That connector marked cn1 which connected to the gnd and +ve of the torch and earth clamp so i assume this has caused it? If so what component has blown and how would i source another ebay etc? Thanks in advance
I reversed the polarity on the leads but not on
That connector marked cn1 which connected to the gnd and +ve of the torch and earth clamp so i assume this has caused it? If so what component has blown and how would i source another ebay etc? Thanks in advance
The AC supply into the board comes from the secondary of the main welding transformer, and this should not exceed about 30 volts. Maybe the AC mains on the primary is leaking due to poor insulation, and affecting the secondary......
In Post #30 of that other thread I suggested checking the AC voltage at connector CN1, between the two supply wires and also from mains earth ( the chassis ) to each of the two wires at CN1.
The wirefeed motor is small and should not pull much more than 1 Amp. In Post #33 of that thread I suggested checking the actual current drawn from the positive output pin of the KBPC310 rectifier.
Since you have a few of these rectifiers, you could try wiring two of them in parallel so they share the current load, maybe they will last longer that way....
To put two rectifiers in parallel, you would have to join both the AC inputs ( marked "~" ) together, and join the two "-" outputs, then both the "+" outputs, and then put all of this onto the board. It will look like a wiring nightmare! The best way is probably to stack one rectifier on top of the other, with the correct orientation, then bend the wires of the upper one to go down and join onto the pins of the lower one.
Well I put both the bridges on and put it together nothing worked no wire feed and dosnt make a sound where it wants to weld but if u want where are u from
