Wolf 3HP Dakota update

  1. rikrobson

    rikrobson Member

    Messages:
    3,814
    Location:
    Perth, Scotland
    So overall I like my new compressor. The Factory setting was only 8 Bar, so i've upped that to nearer 10. It comes with the short euro style connectors, so I cnaged them to CPL ones. I was the front exit one was ok, but the pot metal hiusing on the regulator cracked. So that went in the bit and fitted a better one from the old compressor, with oil and water trap. The Welding trolly is going to be more of a mobile workstation and will have power and air attached. So I'm planning two regulated supplies with and without oil and one direct into the plasma cutter. I'll update on the welding trolly in a seperate post.
     
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  2. optima21 Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    2,699
    Location:
    halifax, England
    Ive just got one too, and I found that the factory pressure switch was set a bit low,but they are definatley quieter than my old direct drive compressor. I slowly modifying mine too, which includes lowering it to fit under my bench (by 40mm), making a new desiccant air dryer for it, and a semi automatic drain valve to the receiver (the drain valve operates when the pressure drops to less than 5psi.

    Id never thought about the drain valves until my comment in this thread, but with me lowering the compressor, clearance for a electric drain valve may be an issue

    http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/fitting-an-auto-drain-vale-to-my-compressor.55004/

    so here's a couple pics from my playing so far, one wheel lowered 40mm and my new drain valve to replace the original one.

    DSC03417.JPG

    DSC03427.JPG
     
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  3. pondy

    pondy Member

    Messages:
    1,510
    Location:
    chedburgh, suffolk. uk

    Are you lowering the front? With just the rear being 40mm lower the water will go to the rear of the tank, guessing the drain valve is at the front
     
  4. rikrobson

    rikrobson Member

    Messages:
    3,814
    Location:
    Perth, Scotland
    the valve is just behing the single front caster. I don't think that can be adjusted.
    What you could do is mount it on blocks under the bench. I know it will be static then, but al least you know the drain will be expelling water correctly.
     
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  5. optima21 Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    2,699
    Location:
    halifax, England
    yeah I'm lowering the front too so its level, I could either use tiny castors (which will be useless), no castors (more difficult to move, or two castors on a new support. I'm going for the 3rd option, (part made and upside down, the curved edges go under the reciever

    DSC03432.JPG
     
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  6. skotl

    skotl Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,666
    Location:
    Edinburgh, UK
    I like the idea of lowering ("slammin'") your compressor :)

    Will you be replacing the drain vent with a 4" stainless steel exhaust, fitting carbon-fibre-lookalike-plastic strips, a massive rear wing and a bangin' stereo? :D

    Oh!! :clapping: and don't just lower it - add hydraulic lifts so you can make it dance :laughing:
     
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  7. rikrobson

    rikrobson Member

    Messages:
    3,814
    Location:
    Perth, Scotland
    I'm Waiting for the new series of PIMP MY COMPRESSOR lol
     
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  8. optima21 Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    2,699
    Location:
    halifax, England
    ohh Im liking your thinking, I could even have a stereo as I can hear with this one...... I did have a post on my facebook page with my first picture in this thread saying

    "it would appear that slammed cars on air are becoming more popular,but for me slammed air is good enough .....Im going for a 40mm drop on my compressor. at least I dont need to worry about tuck, camber, poke, stretched tyres or ride quality"

    so here's the mount after welding, excuse the quality of the welds, but its one of my first attempts at TIG welding (would have been easier for me to MIG it).

    DSC03434.JPG

    and I now have clearance

    DSC03436.JPG

    and the new front assembly trial fitted (just needs a bit of tidying up)

    DSC03437.JPG

    DSC03439.JPG

    DSC03442.JPG
     
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  9. pondy

    pondy Member

    Messages:
    1,510
    Location:
    chedburgh, suffolk. uk
    Looks good. You have done a good job with that
     
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  10. optima21 Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    2,699
    Location:
    halifax, England
    I've redone my desiccant bead dryer, by replacing the water filter housing with ones thats rated to 150psi continious pressure , some are only rated for 60psi. I got one of these filter housings on ebay.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331553750611

    and use this self indicating silica gel desiccant

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380853696993

    it changes to blue when it absorbs moisture and can be dried out in an oven

    I could have done with the filter housing being 1/4" bsp fittings, but they are 3/4" bsp and rather than pay £5 each for 1/4" to 3/4" adaptors, I got a couple of 3/4" hosepipe fittings from toolstation

    http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p39197

    and silver soldered some 8mm copper pipe compression fittings that are 1/4" bsp thread (and I already had some kicking about). heres one of the connecting the filter housing to the regulator

    DSC03443.JPG

    then in the filter housing you need a tube fixing to the top and almost going to the bottom. I used and offcut of 15mm copper tube with slots cut in it and an end cap glued on the end of it (to prevent the desiccant beads going up the tube). the other end was coated with car body filler and stuck to the lid.

    DSC03448.JPG

    and showing the other end of the tube when the top is on the filter housing

    DSC03450.JPG

    the filter then needs filling with the desiccant beads to work.

    its mounted on the compressor handle using some bits of wood, with a mini filter before the desiccant filter (just to try and get moisture out of the air before going through the desiccant) and a mini filter/regulator after the desiccant. the filter on the regulator is to remove small particles of the desiccant beads.

    DSC03456.JPG

    DSC03453.JPG

    I still havn't decided if its best to connect the filter to the compressor or to use a 20ft airline between them as that will allow the air to cool and more of the moisture in the air will condense into water droplets.

    on my old direct drive compressor,the standard water filter on that (not a desiccant one) never had any water in it, but at the end of a 20ft airline,there was loads of moisture and water deoplets in the air.
     
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